New clutch fiber plate spec is 3mm thick. The wear limit is 2.7mm so yours are fine. You did have the stepped end of the outer pushrod facing out, right? The other full diameter end won't fit into the worm.
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New clutch fiber plate spec is 3mm thick. The wear limit is 2.7mm so yours are fine. You did have the stepped end of the outer pushrod facing out, right? The other full diameter end won't fit into the worm.
Yes that is the first part I started messing with
I think the ball in the worm gear was stuck allowing me to put the side cover back on thinking it was fully disengaged, which of course led me to a super stiff clutch handle and a clutch that wouldn't grab
Even though it was a simple fix im glad I didn't find it right away
Forced me to take the side covers off
Which forced me to learn about the worm gear, clutch set up etc
I found lots of things the PO got wrong
Good thing that clutch pull wasn't to my liking or It coulda been bad zipping down the road to have the clutch bolt fall off (missing a lock tab washer!)
Your '79 may not use that tabbed lock washer under the hub mounting nut. It would depend on which clutch set-up you have, the mid to late '70s 7 friction plate one or the later 6 friction plate design. That tabbed washer didn't come along until the later clutch. The inner basket will have a cut-out for the tab if it does use the washer .....
ScooterMagoo
XS650 Addict
One quick note, if you don't have a shop manual yet......get one. Invaluable!
Your '79 may not use that tabbed lock washer under the hub mounting nut. It would depend on which clutch set-up you have, the mid to late '70s 7 friction plate one or the later 6 friction plate design. That tabbed washer didn't come along until the later clutch. The inner basket will have a cut-out for the tab if it does use the washer .....
I counted 7 friction plates and 6 metal ones, I can see the cut out you a referring to and it seems like it is supposed to have it, From what I understand the conical washer above it is supposed to act like a crush washer correct?
From what I have read online the tapered or i guess pointed end should go towards the nut that locks it in place
Is this info correct?
Is there more than one brand shop manual?
If so what brand would you recommend?
Yamaha, Haynes and Chilton.
Yamaha if you only want one. A free one is available at
http://www.biker.net/650parts_index.html
the top link. On that page are also various parts and owner manuals.
These are offered free but a note of thanks to the sites owner may be welcome.
If you like hard copy reading material for the throne the Yamaha manuals come up on ebay frequently.
Yamaha if you only want one. A free one is available at
http://www.biker.net/650parts_index.html
the top link. On that page are also various parts and owner manuals.
These are offered free but a note of thanks to the sites owner may be welcome.
If you like hard copy reading material for the throne the Yamaha manuals come up on ebay frequently.
The tabbed lock washer goes directly under the nut. It has to be that way so you can bend the side up tight against the nut. You'll see when you get the lock washer that it has to go this way. It won't fit into the notch in the hub correctly if you try to put it on first, against the hub. The tab is too long and/or the notch isn't deep enough. You need another washer as a spacer between the lock washer and the hub (as pictured above).
Yamaha made some clutch changes, both major and minor, on the '78, '79, and '80 models. It's difficult to pin down exactly when they occurred though. The major change was the 6 plate inner hub with the bottom damper plate. A minor change would be this retaining nut locking method. My '78 Standard used the old style locking method - the Belleville spring washer. There was no notch in the inner hub so the tabbed lock washer couldn't be used even if you wanted to. Yours seems to use the older 7 plate clutch but with the newer retaining nut tabbed lock washer. Like I said, it's difficult to nail down when some of these changes were implemented. They may have been model specific, like the Special getting them before the Standard or Special II.
Yamaha made some clutch changes, both major and minor, on the '78, '79, and '80 models. It's difficult to pin down exactly when they occurred though. The major change was the 6 plate inner hub with the bottom damper plate. A minor change would be this retaining nut locking method. My '78 Standard used the old style locking method - the Belleville spring washer. There was no notch in the inner hub so the tabbed lock washer couldn't be used even if you wanted to. Yours seems to use the older 7 plate clutch but with the newer retaining nut tabbed lock washer. Like I said, it's difficult to nail down when some of these changes were implemented. They may have been model specific, like the Special getting them before the Standard or Special II.
Yes, most of us agree the factory shop manual is best. Yes, eBay is the place to look. If you're patient, you can usually score one for about $20, sometimes even less. I just got one a couple weeks ago for $10. I couldn't believe nobody bid on it but me, lol. Be aware that there are both full manuals and supplements. The full manuals are about 200 pages, the supplements 20 to 25. Full manuals were issued every couple of years with the supplements coming out for the in between years to fill in any of the little changes. A full manual came out in '78. The next full manual came out in '82. Your '79 only got a supplement. I recommend you look for one that covers '78 to '80 (good) or '81 (better). That will include the full '78 manual and the supplements for the other later years. It will cover the big changes in the carbs (BS38 to BS34) and the ignition (points to electronic).
