Hi, brand new to forum, need opinion on '79 vs '83

I've got a 78.

If I had to do it over again I would've rather had the 83' for the same money, because the 83 doesn't have all the hinges/lock crap for the seat. That opens up many options for seat modifications that on the earlier bikes requires permanently modifying the frame.

But if you could care less about the condition of the bike once your one with it, but whatevers cheap and chop chop chop.
 
just got off the phone with the owner of the 79. He apologized and told me the bike actually has OVER 100,000 MILES on it! Engine may need an overhaul...Think I'll pass, perhaps the 83 with only 21k on it is a better value...
 
Yes, PHeller, I recall it was easy to rbemove the stock seat from my son's bike and install a little bobber solo on it. Used a piece of rubber conveyor belt zip tied to the top frame rails to cover up the battery and electrics, used a strap hinge drilled to fit under the rear tank bolt and bolted the hinge to the bottom of the seat. Works out well for his short legs and looks cool too!
 
The manufacturing year is from August to July. As in Aug of 79 to July of 80. Anything built that "year" is an 80. From Aug 80 to July 81 is an 81.
The 79 on the vin sticker has the month before it. As in my 81 has a date of 11/80 on the sticker. That's the date it came off the assembly line.
When these bikes were made they tested fuel differently than the do now. This makes the octane numbers different. On the side cover on my 81 it has a sticker saying to run at least 91 octane. Before they changed the way they tested regular was 94 octane.
I and many others reccomend running high test, 93 octane. The bikes run better and are less apt to suffer from detonation and holed pistons.
Leo
 
Yes, run high test. Over the years, I've read about people running regular in all the bikes I've owned. I tried it and they ALL ping with it. This ranges from 500 singles to BMW twins, and of course, my 650. Obviously, you can't believe everything you read but believe this - run high test only in your 650.
 
Thanks for the advice. High Test is about $.35 more than regular, so about a dollar more each fill up. Yes, cheap enough insurance.
Just sent a text to the owner of the '83, want to arrange a time to see it. It's got 21K on it, supposedly needs nothing and he wants $1400. Only XS for sale in my half of the state. Yikes, last time I bought one it only cost me $500...
 
Hmmmmmmm 100,000 is a lot of miles. He must have known somethin bout these.

21K is just enough to run the motor low on oil, with a piss pour battery that has cooked the rotor and stator, run the cam chain guide to the bone and getter pretty rodded out.

Not saying this is the scenario but..............
Hats off to anyone that rack up 100K
 
Hmmmmmmm 100,000 is a lot of miles. He must have known somethin bout these.

21K is just enough to run the motor low on oil, with a piss pour battery that has cooked the rotor and stator, run the cam chain guide to the bone and getter pretty rodded out.

Not saying this is the scenario but..............
Hats off to anyone that rack up 100K


That being said is a fine time to hone up on the sidecover slap test. If the slap test fails it's a good time to at least try to get the alt cover off, brushes out and ohm the rotor.....if the seller is agreeable. Hey, price becomes negotiable.
 
Just bring a multi meter with you. Clip it to the battery + and -, rev the bike to 3K, and see if it's charging.
 
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