how many replace the stock key switch?

[emzdogz]

Am back to working on the perpetual project chopper. My old key switch works fine, but I worry about the wires being brittle since they are so old ('80 SG) - plus I only have one key for it.

Is this is a component that it's really good, if possible, to keep the original? say for quality reasons, maybe? or would some of the aftermarket universal switches (barring an actual defect) be just as good?

It just seems like the wires could be beefier, considering that power has to come to it, and through it, and that that skinny brown wire ends up doing so much.

Do most of you trust your original key switch? or is that something a lot of you swap out for a new one?

If anyone would like to recommend an aftermarket one, that would be great, if you particularly like it. I've been looking at several diff. ones.

thx!
Em

 

[emzdogz]

it's funny - I did a search prior to posting this, with search term key switch. Didn't turn up much, just mainly some build threads which contained that phrase somewhere in the thread. But now, I look below this and see the "similar threads (based on keywords) section, and voila - yes, people have discussed key switches before, which I assume is why no one had any input for me when I posted about it.

Just makes me wonder why it didn't show up in my orig search. I wouldn't have put this thread out there if it had... hmmmmm..
.....anyway....

 

[gggGary]

I have few problems with stock switches and they can be R&R'd with a little work. They are kind of big, ugly, and heavy for a custom though.

Matching ignition, tank cap, seat lock sets, with nice OEM keys is a bit rarer.

 

[emzdogz]

hey there, gggGary - thx for that info. I guess I'll pull mine off tonight. I'm glad I read some of the other threads I finally found. Glad I didn't order a Harley re-pop switch. I'm reading those aren't too good, and I have experience with a bad one, myself. I had a Sportster before that the orig owner had done a big tank(s) conversion on and the ignition/key switch was on a dash on the tank. Something in the switch came apart one day while starting it, and suddenly I had many sparks under gas tank. It was scary.

Thinking now I'll go another way, and mount a generic switch down by battery box.

You're right about the stock switch being kinda ugly on a stripped down bike without gauges.

Can't wait to start this re-wire!

thanks, btw.

 

[emzdogz]

so I ordered a switch from McMaster Carr, one designated as a "wash-down" switch, which I think will make it pretty water-proof of I have to create a mounting place for it, say along a frame rail under the seat. Has 3 "solder lugs" as connections. Not sure what that is.
We shall see!
Also went ahead and got 6 gauge batt cables and ground cable. Pretty darn cheap! I like McMaster Carr.

 

[5twins]

"Solder lugs" are just as the name implies - lugs you solder wires to. I would add short wires with bullet connectors on the ends so your switch would plug into your harness. This is where an old harness comes in handy. You can get most of the wires and plugs you need from it. Although I'm not terribly bad at installing crimps (better than many I see, lol), I like using factory installed ones when possible.

 

[emzdogz]

hi 5Twins,
I do have my old harness to get pieces and plugs from. I worry that they've become brittle though. For instance where the wires enter the plugs, where they may have made contact and rubbed over the years. Never had a piece of the old harness fail though. Am using a piece of it now to plug into stock key switch.

Thanks for the info re" solder lugs - that's about what I thought. I think my aftermarket coil has those, and I had attached pigtails with spade ends somehow.
Need to rework the attachment of those wires, too.

 

[5twins]

I would think your coil has spade terminals, not solder lugs. They are usually a bit wider than solder lugs and made to accept the properly sized spade crimp on your wire end. My coil came with screw terminals. I added bolt-on spade terminals and made short jumper wires so I could plug it into my harness. I sourced the wire w/ bullet connectors from an old harness but did need to add the spade connectors on the other ends .....

I don't use the hard plastic insulating tubes that come on many crimps. They usually split or break when you apply the crimping pliers anyway. They also make it more difficult to get a good, tight crimp on the wire. I remove them, install the crimp bare, solder it, then cover with shrink tubing ......

Honestly, I foresee nothing but problems down the road for many of the wiring jobs I see illustrated here. These bikes vibrate ..... a lot. Poorly installed, unsoldered crimps will come back to haunt you.

 

[emzdogz]

yeah I don't use those hard plastic crimp on types from the auto parts store - like with the blue, yellow and red colored plastic. One thing I've really liked from Mikes has been the crimp (or crimp and solder) male and female bullet ends with those slide-on clear rubber covers. It took me a while to get the hang of attaching them, but when they're on there right - even without solder they form a really nice tight connection.

My bike is actually wired already, but I'm re-doing it to try and create a more bulletproof harness than what I initially did. I'd like it to be easily all un-pluggable for removal, like a factory harness. Not a rats nest that I have to rip apart, etc.

The rats nest works! But I'd like to re-do it so it can withstand the vibes, the weather etc better. Am adding more fuses now, too. Was just using the one 20 amp before.

So solder lugs look like "skinny" male spades? I've seen those before somewhere.
thanks,
Em

 

[Maxx650]

I replaced mine with a $10 car key ignition I picked up from my local autozone. in the end it's just a switch, fairly easy to wire up and was much smaller than the original. I bought some 2" wide aluminum and bent it at a 90 degree angle, drilled a 3/4" hole (I can't remember exactly how big the threads of the key switch were) and just screwed it through that. Rounded off the edges for finesse. Thinking about making a cover / 'cage' for it to protect some of the wires better.

 

[emzdogz]

cool thanks for those pics, that's about how I'm considering doing it. And then to decide whether to use a momentary switch located near there, rather than the stock starter button on the bars. I kind of like having the starter button on the bars. But it would sure simplify the wiring to have it back in the under seat batt box area.

 

[5twins]

Don't many car switches have the starter function incorporated into them? First click is on and second (usually spring-loaded so it snaps back to "On") activates the starter.

For your old wiring (and many other things), get a product called the Tannery. This is a plastic, rubber, leather, vinyl cleaner and conditioner in a spray can. Does a wonderful job cleaning old wiring, seats, your leathers, boots, tire sidewalls, the list goes on and on. It will make those old wires look like new and may help keep them from becoming brittle.

http://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-More-Al...r-aerosol/dp/B0002KL8C2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_3

 

[Maxx650]

Don't many car switches have the starter function incorporated into them? First click is on and second (usually spring-loaded so it snaps back to "On") activates the starter.

Yep, the one I bought has the starter function built in with spring tension on it just like a normal car key would - turn to the right and hold until it ignites, let go and it springs back to the 'on' position while running. Mine actually had 4 positions, OFF, ACC, ON, IGNITE - Off and ACC are the exact same for me.

Mounting it there was very nice for wiring, but sometimes a bit awkward starting the bike if I need to give it a blip of throttle.. I'm actually thinking of swapping it over to the other (throttle) side of the bike.

 

[XSLeo]

I got my replacement switch a TSC, it's for an old Ford tractor. Looks just like the one in many parts catlogs, like J&P for $40 but cost $16. Just off/on.
As far as the wires on your stock switch they will carry the load just fine.
Leo

 

[emzdogz]

hi Leo, I'd considered one of that type. There are a couple of co's on Amazon.com that sell Ford switches REAL cheap. So, one is power in from batt through 20 amp fuse, and then you'd just splice the other wire into two, to create a blue and a brown if you want to follow most of the diagrams in the wiring diagram thread?
thx!
PS:
Question (if I may): why did you replace your stock one?

 

[XSLeo]

I was swapping the dash around and my 75 stock switch wouldn't work with the later dash. As well as lost the only key I had.
The switch I have has the wires soldered on. On the fuse holder I hooked one wire to the battery, the other to the switch. The other switch wire I hooked to the bolt on my 6 fuse block.
The switch stops all power flowing out of the battery.
Leo

 

[emzdogz]

ok thanks!

 

[XS650_Bobber]

I replace mine with a gn125 suzuki kit, inclued the gas tank cap, two locks and the key switch.

Check this out:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200912799603?redirect=mobile

I am using a similar;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230958539799?redirect=mobile

Ok, here is a very very good deal THREE NOS Suzuki ignition boat keys and some wire harness, I check already, each of one cost more than 150$

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200913775741

You can buy it, use one and sell the rest to the XS gang...

If I have money I buy it... But I cant...

 

[Maxx650]

$100 for a switch?! crazy! Very shiny though

 

[XS650_Bobber]

$100 for a switch?! crazy! Very shiny though

I dont pay that price for mine, but if I have to I pay it, I preffer something reliable, that simple thing can leave you in the street if fail...