krza
XS650 Member
Hey gang. I'm stumped here, needing some assistance.
I built this bike, it ran and rode (with some carb issues that were more annoying than terrible). It is set up with a Hugh's Handbuilt PMA, sparx cap, and simple in-frame wiring done by me.
I tore it down for paint, and rebuilt it last Friday. It fired right up (second kick, like before I tore it down in April). I rode it, but it was running like shit. Flooding on one cylinder (float height), and unbalanced (needed to put a manometer on it). So, carb issues, no big deal. Saturday, I rode it, same carb issues. I brought it to the shop and decided to go through all the adjustments and make it ran legit before carb tuning. Started with cam chain tension, valve adjustment, and then went on to points (thinking I'd move on to carb adjustment after).
I had never adjusted the points on the bike since I bought it. They had always been fine, but I had never fucked with them (seems like that was smart in hindsight). I re-gapped them to .012 with feeler gauges, and re-assembled. Bike would not start. First time since I bought it, it would not start. Used to be a consistent second kick.
More fucking around, cleaning the points up, and I got it to run on just the left cylinder, but it was a hard start and of course didn't want to stay running.
Some reading led me to believe that I put it out of time when I re-gapped the points. I went back in with brake cleaner, cleaned them up, and adjusted them according to this document: http://bit.ly/mESD1r.
I also followed this thread: http://bit.ly/1609tXX
Still no start. Not even a single thump of firing. I'm pretty convinced it's timing. Both plugs have good blue spark. It's getting fuel and air and spark, so I assume the spark is out of time.
The issue I'm having: none of these guides on timing have anything about a battery-free system like my PMA/cap system.
So I'm using the multimeter, set to Ohms to check when the points are closed. I set the timing mark on my HHB flywheel to the fire mark on my HHB timing sticker. I then adjust the points so they are closed and showing continuity. That's the idea, right? Points are closed and current is passing through?
Am I correct in how I'm doing this?
Anyone else timing a points/PMA bike? Should I hook a battery where the capacitor is wired and do the timing procedure with the light bulb test method?
I built this bike, it ran and rode (with some carb issues that were more annoying than terrible). It is set up with a Hugh's Handbuilt PMA, sparx cap, and simple in-frame wiring done by me.
I tore it down for paint, and rebuilt it last Friday. It fired right up (second kick, like before I tore it down in April). I rode it, but it was running like shit. Flooding on one cylinder (float height), and unbalanced (needed to put a manometer on it). So, carb issues, no big deal. Saturday, I rode it, same carb issues. I brought it to the shop and decided to go through all the adjustments and make it ran legit before carb tuning. Started with cam chain tension, valve adjustment, and then went on to points (thinking I'd move on to carb adjustment after).
I had never adjusted the points on the bike since I bought it. They had always been fine, but I had never fucked with them (seems like that was smart in hindsight). I re-gapped them to .012 with feeler gauges, and re-assembled. Bike would not start. First time since I bought it, it would not start. Used to be a consistent second kick.
More fucking around, cleaning the points up, and I got it to run on just the left cylinder, but it was a hard start and of course didn't want to stay running.
Some reading led me to believe that I put it out of time when I re-gapped the points. I went back in with brake cleaner, cleaned them up, and adjusted them according to this document: http://bit.ly/mESD1r.
I also followed this thread: http://bit.ly/1609tXX
Still no start. Not even a single thump of firing. I'm pretty convinced it's timing. Both plugs have good blue spark. It's getting fuel and air and spark, so I assume the spark is out of time.
The issue I'm having: none of these guides on timing have anything about a battery-free system like my PMA/cap system.
So I'm using the multimeter, set to Ohms to check when the points are closed. I set the timing mark on my HHB flywheel to the fire mark on my HHB timing sticker. I then adjust the points so they are closed and showing continuity. That's the idea, right? Points are closed and current is passing through?
Am I correct in how I'm doing this?
Anyone else timing a points/PMA bike? Should I hook a battery where the capacitor is wired and do the timing procedure with the light bulb test method?
