i give up.....giving it back

Angus here is a link to pamco's website all the install instructions are linked from there http://www.yamahaxs650.com/
thank you.
I cleaned out the carbs AGAIN(it should be capitalized by all who work onthese carbs. lol). paid special attention to the choke pick up, the idle circuit, and the corresponding passsages in the bowl. all clean now. still wont start.
I will put in pete's system this weekend. wish me luck.
I might do a pictorial write up on how to convert a 71 dual points to pete's system. Lots of pictures, HOPEFULLY video of it running at the end, riding off into the sunset.
Was wondering though....how do I make a how-to that wont dissapear if the host website dissapears? .
 
Angus, I live in Bellingham, if you still problems after installing Pete's generous gift, you get that thing up here, we will make it work.

I will donate $25.00 for gas.

Waldo
 
Was wondering though....how do I make a how-to that wont dissapear if the host website dissapears? .

Host them here.. Put the pictures in an album and then link to them using the
insertimage.gif
button
 
Angus, I live in Bellingham, if you still problems after installing Pete's generous gift, you get that thing up here, we will make it work.

I will donate $25.00 for gas.

Waldo
Thanks for the offer. It will be considered.
 
I did it!!!!! Pete's system came in. removed the points plate, the coils, tucked the condenser connections under top mount(will remove later) green to one side of coil, red to brown wire wich is switched 12v, that to pete's red wire, then ran it to other terminal on coil. Ground to clean metal.
full choke, started first kick!!! I guese points aren't my thing, eh?
The hardest part was figuring out how to mount the new coil. Basically, I took 1/8 flat bar, drilled two holes to fit where they would bolt to the original coil mount plate, then drilled two more holes to mount the coil. Then used some small tubing(3/8) for standoffs) Fixed it so the flat bar would mount where the right coil would be, with the spark plug connections pointing to the left side.
one suggestion though, pete. When I was fine tunning the timing, I had a difficult time turning the base plate because there is no slot like there is on the points plate . othe r than than, I am SOOOO apreiciative of this gift.
My friend had no idea I was doing this settup, and I was afraid he would dissaprove. Especially since he had just bought new coils, plugs, wires. When I was removing the coils, he called me. I explained everything that was going on, and assured him I would never do anything that wasn't irreversable. He chuckled and said he just wanted to ride. as long as I kept track of the new parts that we are now not using(coils, and whatnots)
Starts cosistanly first kick, but the idle goes up/dow. one of the mechanical advance springs is weak, so I think that is the culprit. I'll take a coil out of it tomoroww. tried to get the points to fire in the lfl mark, but with the advance searching, I called it quits for the night, and am basking in the glory of the brotherhood.
I hope I get to shake your hand some day, pete.
Thank you.
Photo010916461-vi.jpg
 
in a couple days. heavy work week coming up. gotta catch up from having the holidays off.
 
angus67,

So glad it all worked out for you and your friend. Now, if the weather would just cooperate, your friend can get back on the road.

Just a couple of suggestions:

1. If the tubing you used as stand offs is not metal, then replace with metal to help cool the coil.
2. Cutting one whole loop off of the advance springs may be too much and cause the timing to either not advance fully, or not advance from idle to the point where it does finally advance. Suggest that you just "reshape" the ends of the springs to obtain a fully retracted condition of the weights. If you are going to remove a loop, then only remove it from one of the springs. You could also try removing the weights and clean up the pins, oil the pins and reassemble.

I like your suggestion about putting a slot on the plate to facilitate setting the timing. I'll see if I can have that done on the next batch of plates.
 
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What a great story, my hats off to Angus and Pete, both of you guys are good people and its great to know that there are still guys like yourself out there willing to help others by going the extra mile.
 
I have been following this thread just to see how things turn out. I have to say I am now really considering Pete's ignition even though my tci works. ... Pete do I have to buy from Mikesxs or do you have a storefront somewhere on the net. I don't mind paying full price but for a middle man to make the money seems kind of pointless to me.
 
gmiller217,

Well, yes I do have a site www.yamahaxs650.com and you can buy directly from me on that site, but Mike offers the complete kits, which I do not have, and one of those kits includes everything that you need to convert your TCI to PAMCO, including the advance mechanism, rod and bushings as well as a high performance coil, wires and caps for a very good price when compared to buying all those items individually.

The middleman, in this case MIkesXS, serves a very valuable purpose for small companies such as PAMCO.

1. He stocks the product, which allows me to produce the PAMCO in larger quantity and not have to carry the overhead to stock them.
2. He distributes world wide and reaches prospective customers that I would never hear from.
3. He supplies all the items needed to make up a complete installation kit at a lower cost than I could.
4. People see the PAMCO on his site even when they are looking for something else.

So, I'm very happy with my deal with Mike and it doesn't really cost me that much, and the buyer ends up with a better deal with his kits.
 
Hi, guys! On the way home from work, I picked up new springs for the advance. 1.19 each, but at least I have them now, instead of waiting for mike's. They seem identicle, put them on, fired first kick, cold with choke.
When I would turn off the choke, it would die, so I gave the idle mix another half turn. (started from half out per xs1-b starting settings)fired her up, and when I turned the choke off, it idles by itself, and the timing was dead on. A little fluttery, though. still +-1/4 centered over the lfl mark.
ran outta gas when Setting the idle mix, I knew I should picked up gas on the way home.
Those tubes are steel, gonna weld them to the plate I made, and powder coat black this weekend. Also, I might take off the baseplate and cut a slot the kerf of a cutoff wheel for timing. Do you think the vibes fron a grindercuttoff wheel will hurt the electronics? I know xs vibrate like crazy, but just want to check. Kinda freaky sticking a pencil in there to turn the plate.
friend is coming over saturday.
 
make sure the points on the clamp for the timing gun are clean. Mine was fluttery till i cleaned them. Congrats on getting that machine to run. It's gorgeous.
 
didnt even think of cleaning the pickup on the gun. its like 40 years old. it was my grandpas (R.I.P.)
what did you clean it with? denatured alcohol?
 
Angus, congrats on getting that ol' girl running. I would love to find a 71 in decent shape to restore.

Pete, Thanks for the info about Mikes kits, I just figured you would also have the extra parts I need. I will definitely be using your system sometime in the near future.
 
angus67,

I would feel better if you did not cut that slot in the plate. The metal particles may get lodged in or under the PC board and cause a short. Besides, once you get the timing set, you will not have to set it again for a long time.

If you are getting jitter while checking the timing, then try these tips:

1. The dual output coil produces a positive voltage on one of the plugs and a negative on the other. The timing light works best on the negative wire, but there is no easy way to determine which is the negative wire, so just try switching to the other plug wire.
2. The suggestion from CDNTX about cleaning the contact points for the timing light clamp.
3. Check / adjust your timing chain. If it is loose, the timing will jump around.
4. Make sure that the engine is completely warmed up. Put a fan in front of the engine when you do this.

If you still think you are having problems with the carbs, then that can also cause the idle to jump around and that will be evident in the timing.
 
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