I just did something but I don't know what.

Maybe. There's something you have to know about how your original fuses are set up. Power comes from the battery to the main 20 amp fuse only. Then power runs from that to the ignition switch and from there, back to the other 3 fuses. This makes power to them "switched", which is what you need and want. If you run battery power directly to all the fuses, they would be "hot" all the time, even with the key off. So, if that fuse box you got has one power input and all the fuses run off of it, it won't work, at least not for the main fuse. You would want to use a separate single fuse holder for that.

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And no Vaseline on the fuses, lol, that's a battery terminal only trick. You could put a little dielectric grease on them though.

Power isn't common in the new block I got, each fuse holder is separate from its neighbor, so should be ok. Thank you for that info, 5twins. I'm 100% positive I never would have thought of that!
 
Yes, that type of fuse block is what you want and will work fine. One more thing - is that a 10 amp fuse I see in your original block in the "Main" holder? The main should be a 20 amp, all the others 10. A 10 in the "Main" slot may blow frequently and not because there's anything wrong, just because it's not big enough to handle the load being put through it.
 
I had an oil leak out the top of the RHC where the gasket had torn when I took it off (back when I started this whole little adventure), so I guess my theory of being able to reuse a gasket has been shot. Should have a new one by Wednesday (and I ordered 2 this time).

Anyway, I got all the old gasket parts scraped and edges of the case and RCH prepped for gasket, polished the head pipes with this new anti-blue powder stuff I got, and decided to go ahead and change out the fuse box:

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Can I just wrap the wires in electricians' tape, or does it have to be some heat-shrink kind?
 
Were you raised on a farm? Do you live in a barn? Then yes, tape it, heck wrap your old socks around it, lol. You said you were a doctor. I'm assuming that means you're somewhat smart? You're not showing that side here, lol. Shrink wrap please, and lose the RLU while you're at it too.

I'm sorry to be so condescending and harsh but if you really are a doctor and you did stupid stuff like this, people would die. In this case, your bike could die ..... and that's really all I'm concerned about. I love these bikes and hate to see people destroy them through ignorance on their part. And there's no excuse for that ignorance because all you would ever need to know is available on-line and in readily available printed manuals. So, how smart are you now?
 
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The factory taped the bundles. Just use good tape don't pull it too tight. Hit it with a hair dryer so the glue sticks good.

Might be nice to get some shrink wrap over the terminals.
 
Maybe. There's something you have to know about how your original fuses are set up. Power comes from the battery to the main 20 amp fuse only. Then power runs from that to the ignition switch and from there, back to the other 3 fuses. This makes power to them "switched", which is what you need and want. If you run battery power directly to all the fuses, they would be "hot" all the time, even with the key off. So, if that fuse box you got has one power input and all the fuses run off of it, it won't work, at least not for the main fuse. You would want to use a separate single fuse holder for that.

Hi, sorry to bust in. I have a ganged fuse holder, for 6 fuses. What I have done is make a cable that goes from battery to an inline 20 amp fuse, it then branches off and one side goes to reg/rec and the other all the way forward to on/off key switch. Then the OTHER wire from key switch (ON) comes back to my ganged fuse holder and gives power to the 6 fuses (too many, btw, for my bike). Only prob is this fuse holder takes up kind of a lot of space. But I think it's going to work fine.

Trying to find a thread that explains why reg/rec gets/needs unswitched power.
 
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emzdogz: Trying to find a thread that explains why reg/rec gets/needs unswitched power.


It controls the voltage output and needs power to do so. If unhooked for any reason and bike is running the voltage spike fries whatever it can in a heart beat.

Expensive.

My uneducated guess.
 
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