It ran, but it won't start again?

52Chevy

XS650 Addict
Messages
157
Reaction score
13
Points
18
Location
Idaho
I got my bike started for the first time the other day, I also got it started today.

I cannot get it started again now to save my life. There is fuel, the battery has voltage, fuses are all good. I really don't know why it won't start, any suggestions?
 
Check to ensure the plugs are firing. What exactly is it doing when you try to start it? Are you using an ignition switch or kicking it?
 
I've been outside working on it since I posted that, and I checked, and the plugs are indeed not firing. The headlight still turns on.

I am kicking it. It turns over everything seems good except that its not firing.
 
I think you need the sparky things....
#1 thing to do is dry the plugs off with a propane torch, get em HOT red hot is good. then wire brush em and check spark again. Uh, don't use the torch around leaking gas, oil soaked rags etc.
 
The plugs were relatively dry and they are brand new... I thought maybe it was flooded so I pulled them. I will run a wire brush across them tomorrow though just to be sure.

Thanks gggGary
 
If your bike still has those original glass fuse/fuseholders..................they are notorious for appearing OK but having high resistance and/or just plain open circuit.
 
One of my fuses(the headlamp fuse) is held in using aluminum foil apparently it wasn't the right size or something.

I will check resistance on the fuses, as well as check the kill switch connection.

Thank you guys any more suggestions just let me know.
 
One of my fuses(the headlamp fuse) is held in using aluminum foil apparently it wasn't the right size or something.

I will check resistance on the fuses, as well as check the kill switch connection.

Thank you guys any more suggestions just let me know.

Its not the fuses themselves. The metal clips are worn out...........weak, and on the verge of breaking. I highly recommend that you buy some in line automotive blade type fuse holders. Cut out the old original panel and solder in (also use heat shrink insulation)the new in line fuse holders. The reliability of your electrical system will improve immensely.
 
Kick the shit out of it and then push it over. It might start then. Sometimes they need that.
 
Alright I should be able to get something from work to make a new fuse box, that is what we do. I'll give it another shot today, check the electrical system over again, and go from there.
Thanks guys
 
Kick the shit out of it and then push it over. It might start then. Sometimes they need that.

It nothing changes after that, piss on the tires and cuss it til you are embarassed by what you are saying.:banghead:
Or, change the fuse box out and try to start normally a time or two.:laugh:
 
Hold off on the fusebox and just see what's up with it using your meter. You might need your money for a new coil....
 
I'm just running the stock electric ignition. A fuse box is not a problem, as I can build one at work on the super cheap.
 
This is a 75 engine right? Did you swap the stator over? the early late brush wiring, regulators are not compatible.
 
Yes I did all the ignition components are off of my 80. I tested the stator and I got about 6 ohms I was told between 5 and 7 was good.
 
It is not the kill switch. In the on position current flows, and in the off position there is no current.

With the fuses in tact there is not continuity across all of the interfaces in the fuse box like there should be. There is no label inside the fuse box, and I have not been able to find a diagrams that shows what each fuse is.

Can anyone help with that?
 
Scratch that I found a diagram, the main fuse has over 150ohms resistance across the interface, the ignition fuse has 6ohms.
 
Back
Top