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It ran, but it won't start again?
- Thread starter 52Chevy
- Start date
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- Tags
- engine starting problems
Too late
The thing is it's all crap, replace it.
The thing is it's all crap, replace it.
Measure the red wire at the TCI connector it should show a full 12 volts the TCI is kinda fussy about having 12 volts.
It's not the resistance that matters. What matters is that the voltage is the same on both sides, and past the clips. If it is, changing the fuse box won't fix your problem.
I don't think you can get reliable ohm readings out of live circuits?
I don't remember off hand whether the circuits were live or not when I took the readings but I do know when I had the key in the on position there was no current passing through the main fuse. The fuse is good, but there is no continuity between the blades holding the fuse even when the fuse is in place.
hotrdd
XS650 Junkie
Did you try a temporary bypassing the fuses to see if it runs?
hmusket
CBMMA Member
Test to see if you are getting current to the fuse box. Switch your multimeter to read voltage, turn the ignition to on, touch the positive probe to the brass fuse holder (I think the left side is the power-in side, but try both), and the negative to a known ground or the negative on the battery. If you don't get a reading, check out the ignition switch and wiring in the headlamp bucket, and also on right side by the solenoid.
As I mentioned in post #9, its the fuse panel/fuse holder clips that are worn out, not the fuses. You can place 4 brand new glass fuses into the fuse panel, but you would still have a fuse panel that is defective.
Automotive blade fuses/fuse holders are inexpensive, very reliable, and available just about everywhere.
Yes, it is the resistance that matters. When measuring resistance (ohms), of the 4 fuse holders, you would want to first disconnect the + battery cable. Resistance measurements are always done on dead circuits. The VOM has an internal battery to supply voltage for the resistance testing.
When touching the meter probes across any one of the fuse holders/fuses, the ohms reading must be less than 1 ohm to be acceptable. The meter leads themselves may be 0.5 to 0.7 ohms.
Yes, 100 or 200 ohms is not surprising, and would give a very large voltage drop, leaving next to nothing available for the ignition coil/TCI module.
He only needs to consider the voltage. If the voltage is low, fix it. If not, don't.
It also has to deal with current, I could get 12V through at 1 amp and it wouldn't do me much good. With 200 ohms of resistance there isn't enough current passing through the circuit to power everything else needed, as RG stated.
Either way with a circuit reading such high resistance there is going to be problems and I can fix those problems right now.
Either way with a circuit reading such high resistance there is going to be problems and I can fix those problems right now.
You only need to be concerned with the voltage. If something tried to draw 2 amps from a 12 volt source that could only provide 1 amp, the voltage would drop to 6.
People will spend lots of money and waste lots of time shooting in the dark with new parts. You may need a new fuse box before your bike will start. I'm trying to tell you how to see if you need a new fuse box.
Another way to do it is to temporarily fix whatever fusebox you have and see if it helps. Then buy a new fuse box if you need one.
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xjwmx; you're really flogging this "voltage" thing to death. 52Chevy has already stated that he found high resistance across the fuse holders. If you understand Ohm's Law in DC circuirts, then high resistance means there will be a high voltage drop across the fuse holders, and the resulting very low voltage available to the intended load (ignition).Voltage and resistance are reciprocals of each other...............so if you have a problem with one you also have a problem with the other.
Why do you say "You may need a new fuse box", when its already been established that the fuse holders have high resistance?
Why are you saying to 52Chevy "I'm trying to tell you how to see if you need a new fuse box." He obviously knows how to detect if the fuse panel is bad, since he has made resistance measurements and found them to be defective.
Doing a "temporary fix " to an old worn out component, has no benefit when a proper repair costs about $10.00 to $12.00. [
Thank you RG, as I was going to say for under $10 I have already purchased the 4 in line mini fuse holders. even if this doesn't completely solve the problem it seems as though this could be a beneficial cheap preventative measure for other future problems.
Also the resistance measurement is only valid when I am actually able to get continuity across the main fuse interface.
Also the resistance measurement is only valid when I am actually able to get continuity across the main fuse interface.
If you understood DC circuits you would know there is more to it. There will be a drop across a resistance, but it can be a microvolts drop across megaohms resistance. It depends on the rest of the circuit.
The temporary fix was one way to see if he needed a new fuse box. You have at least 500 posts on this forum telling people to buy a new fuse box to fix whatever electrical problem they may have. You're the fuse box man.
