Kick Start ……….. How

[AussieHard]

I am wondering how the kickstart is best used? Do you prime it etc?

If I try to kick start from cold it jus won't happen, if the bike has been running and i stall at an intersection one kick and she fires up.....

I am curious why?

Is there a procedure to getting it to start from cold? Is this an indication of a worn or faulty part?


I open this up to the Brain Bank for knowledge withdrawal.....

 

[xjwmx]

Best I can figure there are three things working against you when it's cold. The oil is thicker so the kick isn't as fast, the gas doesn't vaporize as well, and you have finding the best position of the choke to contend with. When it's warmed up already, all three are negated.

 

[Liftrat]

I think xjwmx hit it on the head. My kick-only '75 usually only takes a couple of kicks when cold (down to 50F/10C or so), with both enricheners on, and no throttle. I run 15W-40, and still have the points ignition, but also have VM carbs that are a little rich on the bottom end. You might check that the enricheners are working, the float level is OK, and maybe go up a step on the idle jets. HTH.

 

[AussieHard]

My bike is stock mechanically.
No idea what oil is in it currently.

I can kick it 15-20 time cold and not start.

I don't know what enrichers are mate? Is that part of the carbs?

 

[Dusty]

I choke the bike, and kick it 3 or 4 times with the ign.OFF.Then I turn on the key and give it a kick. If it fires, and stalls I start the process again until it runs. This is my cold start process.

 

[sreimer]

Mine is full choke and one kick

 

[Ton Up]

Boys Id be checking into fine tuning yer machines.
With properly done carbs, Its one pull one the throttle, choke, kick, varoom.

There is a lot of factors in cold weather starting, but 50-70 degrees, it should start the same. Below 40 then your talking a different thing.

I run 20-50 Castrol year around in everything, and 25-60 in me Harley. The average temp here is 48 degrees. cept June-Sept where its 55.

Ive came out of a tavern, and had ice on the mirrors, and it still fired on the second kick.

But then I was raised with kick starts, and still fail to figure why the fire truck they ever took them off.

 

[Dusty]

Ton Up, what does twisting your throttle do for ya? Do you have pumps on your carbs?
I use the same process on these bikes that I used on the old flathead Harleys I did up. Prime the combustion chamber with a few kicks with the ign. off.

 

[bloodthirstysystem]

key off i give it 2 kicks with the choke and then it starts.. 3 or 4 prime kicks and i can shoot flames from the pipes

 

[AussieHard]

Ok next time I will give it a go with the ignition off for a few kicks, then with it switched on. See if that helps.

 

[shotgunjoe]

I was a 2 prime kick, 1 kick start guy for awhile. I have figured out that my bike starts with only 1 prime kick and 1 regular kick. It actually starts easier the kick than with the electric start... my bike hates the electric start and fails to start with it more times than not.

 

[jay760]

I find the best way is treat it like a big single, get it up to just past compression then give it a big kick.

 

[gggGary]

On nearly every carburated engine I have started the "sweet spot" is throttle just barely above idle. Twist 'til the slack is out of the cables then a tiny bit more. Then when it catches slowly roll on till the engine's to a speed it can hold while it "wakes up".
On a bike that has vacuum petcocks turning the petcock to prime and sloshing the fuel is part of my drill if it has been sitting for more than a day or two. Remember to turn the petcock back to on once it has started.
If you are going to kick everything needs to be right, float settings, ignition, all parts need to be at the top of their game or you are going to turn into a sweaty, tired chump while providing great sport for your electric leg friends.

 

[retiredgentleman]

I have to say this, I just can't hold back any longer..........................why not just use the electric starter motor (unless you have 70 or 71)

 

[TeeCat]

I have to say this, I just can't hold back any longer..........................why not just use the electric starter motor (unless you have 70 or 71)

The early bikes' electric start mechanisms are very primitive and feeble. I can't imagine that they'd stand up to regular use for very long. Mine seemed to turn the motor fine when I first got my bike - before I actually got it running - and I replaced the cable when I replaced all the others on the bike, but I have not tried it since. Not sure why. Maybe I'm afraid to tempt fate, as my bike's been making me quite proud of late...

TC

 

[Benjamoid]

Mine is the same as aussie. Warmed up, 1 kick and im off. Tried it cold yesterday, 6 kicks in I gave up and used the button. I will have to try the prime kick method, this is the first kick start machine I have ever owned..

My electric start sounds like shit though, half the time it spins but only partially moves in and just grinds the teeth. Makes me really want to use the kick most of the time and save the starter for when I stall it.

 

[retiredgentleman]

The early bikes' electric start mechanisms are very primitive and feeble. I can't imagine that they'd stand up to regular use for very long. Mine seemed to turn the motor fine when I first got my bike - before I actually got it running - and I replaced the cable when I replaced all the others on the bike, but I have not tried it since. Not sure why. Maybe I'm afraid to tempt fate, as my bike's been making me quite proud of late...

TC

I can't agree with you TeeCat, that the starter mechanisms are sub standard. While the mechanism is overly complicated, due to it being an after thought design; the components are well made and have lasted 33 years on my bike. I always use the starter motor and the bike always starts.............whats not to like?

Try using your starter motor, you may be pleasantly surprised.

 

[TeeCat]

I can't agree with you TeeCat, that the starter mechanisms are sub standard. While the mechanism is overly complicated, due to it being an after thought design; the components are well made and have lasted 33 years on my bike. I always use the starter motor and the bike always starts.............whats not to like?

Try using your starter motor, you may be pleasantly surprised.

I suppose I should at least make sure it still works, especially since I have been into the bucket several times for other issues. Even if it does - can't see why it wouldn't, really, if it worked in those first few pre-running days - I suppose it'd be good to have if I ever were to stall the bike. Gotta make sure that cable mechanism is adjusted too... never really dug into how that works, though I had the cover off when adjusting valves.

TC

 

[shotgunjoe]

I can't agree with you TeeCat, that the starter mechanisms are sub standard. While the mechanism is overly complicated, due to it being an after thought design; the components are well made and have lasted 33 years on my bike. I always use the starter motor and the bike always starts.............whats not to like?

Try using your starter motor, you may be pleasantly surprised.

Not to be indifferent or anything, but see my first post above... MY e-start is turns the motor over so slowly, it barely works, fully charged battery, good cables and clean connections, and running a PMA. Using the kicker, she roars to life, and thats about half way through my kick, but by that point im commited so I follow through.

 

[retiredgentleman]

Not to be indifferent or anything, but see my first post above... MY e-start is turns the motor over so slowly, it barely works, fully charged battery, good cables and clean connections, and running a PMA. Using the kicker, she roars to life, and thats about half way through my kick, but by that point im commited so I follow through.

shotgunjoe;

I'm not against kick starting..................please continue to use it.

If your engine won't start with the starter motor, it means you have a problem area somewhere:
1) starter motor worn out (brushes)
2) battery too small (less tha 14 amp/hr)
3) charging system not charging battery fully