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Kicker travel
- Thread starter jefft
- Start date
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
mine goes to six as well. why do you ask?
Any further, and it would hyper extend my knee. no thank you on that.
Any further, and it would hyper extend my knee. no thank you on that.
Thanks for the response. The reason I ask is I just installed mid rearsets with folding footpegs. I am finding the kickstart lever hits the toe peg at the end of its travel. I have tried adjusting the brake lever with the adjusting hardware that came with the rearsets and I cannot avoid this contact. The maker I contacted suggested that it might be a defective kickstart limiter. I didn't know there was such a thing so I thought I would get some feedback from someone here. When your kicking it over you can't exactly stop at a certain position if your going to get a good thrust.
jefft
jefft
angus67
Welder's penetrate deeper!!
I hear ya. its either full kick and start the bike or you get nothing. some guys find clearance using sr500 kick arms. goes right on.
Maxx650
XS650 Addict
Sounds like you need to make a bend in your kick starter to clear the toes of the rear sets.. Mark the angle / points of the bend, put it in a vice, heat it up with a propane torch (I use a bernzomatic) and make your bend.. a mallet or vice grips usually helps.
Regretably it does look like that is going to be the fix. Has anyone else mounted Durghams mid rearset with folding footpegs? Your mounting experience would be helpful. I bought these after reading they were a, raise the peg kick and go proposition, and did not require any modification to the kicker. The shifter side went on without problems but the brake side is a different story. It looks as though the brake lever could have been about an inch or so longer and it would have allowed the full stroke of the kicker as the contact is just at about the 6 o'clock position of the kicker. The toe peg resides right at this position. I have adjusted the threaded adjuster everyway possible and I still am making contact with the toe peg when kicking. If I thought I was going to have to modify the kicker anyway, I would have probably found some full rearset to begin with.
jefft
jefft
I think that something more than bending of the lever is going to be required to make this clear the toe peg. It looks as though the kicker would have to be cut up close to the spline and a section added to get out and around the toe peg. If it was the actual foot rest I was trying to clear then I think bending would be an option. If I were to do this then I would have to rotate the kicker counterclockwise on the spline a few teeth so that the kicker wouldn't make contact with the engine cover in its normal relaxed position after the modification.
jefft
jefft
You can weld/grind extra metal on the kick stop to suit.
Can you please explain? I like the feel of my kicker now. When I kickstart my foot carries through the full stoke and usually ends up at the straight down position. To have something that limited this movement short of that I would think would jack your leg up by coming to a sudden halt. I like the kicker to carry through the full stroke.
jefft
jefft
Just an option...
Had to do this on some bikes with poorly designed or retrofit accessories, like floorboards and such.
Some customers tolerated this, some not.
Had to do this on some bikes with poorly designed or retrofit accessories, like floorboards and such.
Some customers tolerated this, some not.
Visegrippe
lurker extraordinaire...
a word about heating and bending the kick levers, the metal does soften, i went through two "special" kick start levers bent before switching to a older model. the bent ones would bend and flex under kicking, were good for maybe two kicks before hitting something. (11.5 compression and 780cc, mind you)
Can you post a detailed picture of the interference scenario?
So is there any one out there you know of that has devised a way to utilize a kickstart with rearsets. I wish I had gotten the full rearsets. Bending the kicker to accomadate the footpeg itself seems a whole lot more doable to me then trying to get around the toe part of the brake pedal. The heck of it is that it seems like if this brake lever were just an inch or two longer the toe part of the brake lever would be far enough forward to have provided enough room. As it is it sets directly under the kicker shaft.
jefft
jefft
pristic
XS650 Addict
I bent mine to clear the forward control linkage (for the rear brake) using a heat, vice, big hammer then I heated it up again and quenched in oil.
Did the same to my side stand/kickstand.
Posted via Mobile
Did the same to my side stand/kickstand.
Posted via Mobile
