Kreem tank sealer.....

Agreed, Marty; I don't like the idea of applying a sealer on top of rust either. After the inside of a tank gets blasted with high pressure detergent and water at the car wash it gets degreased with a 50-50 mix of acetone and denatured alcohol. Then it gets toppped up with Garage Hero's Metal Rescue rust remover. When that's done its work the tank gets flushed again with water, and water gets taken up with a pint of denatured alky followed by a blast with a blow dryer.
 
I have three tanks that I am going to seal with Red-Kote. One GoldWing tank that has a large hole, one CB750 tank that has small leaks where the emblem holes filled with JB Weld have failed, one new tank from TC Bros. The GoldWing tank will probably be soldered with a metal patch before sealing, the CB750 tank will probably be sealed without any patches.

What about paint? Paint before sealing, or after sealing? Any experience good or bad here?

Scott
 
I have three tanks that I am going to seal with Red-Kote. One GoldWing tank that has a large hole, one CB750 tank that has small leaks where the emblem holes filled with JB Weld have failed, one new tank from TC Bros. The GoldWing tank will probably be soldered with a metal patch before sealing, the CB750 tank will probably be sealed without any patches.

What about paint? Paint before sealing, or after sealing? Any experience good or bad here?

Scott
You definitely want to paint Last. I know that redkote will definitely mess up paint. Most sealers will I bet.
 
I'm not a fan of adding a sealer...probably because my biggest fear is having to clean out a tank with a failed sealer...that would be a pain in the ass. But I've seen it done with success (and of course some that weren't). If there's leaks, I would recommend brazing the holes if possible. If not, then I suppose a sealer is a good choice.

I've had good luck with Metal Rescue...super simple, doesn't damage/eat metal just the rust. Decent directions...and I do a final rinse with diesel to stop any flash rusting. Haven't had a problem with rusting since and the tank looks clean/shiny inside. It's cheap enough to do first and then go to something more permanent if it doesn't work for you?

Just a thought.
 
a mixture of water and molasses works wonders on rust I farmer friend of mine mixed up about a 300 gallon tank of the stuff and stripped every bit of rust off a model A. body and fenders. can't remember the exact ratio but it was around 5 water to 1 molasses. Alittle google work will get the fight mix. a quart from the grocery store will no doubt do a fuel tank and you can buy 5 gallon buckets at a feed store. It will take a few days at or above room temp.
 
Snagged this pic off eBay. Thought it would be a good example of potential future problems. Can you see it?
SealedTank.jpg
 
Yikes - the bike will feel like it has "run out of gas" after running for.....oh, I don't know.....10-20 minutes - because air cannot get into the tank to replace the fuel that has run out through the petcocks.
 
Worked on a Yamaha V Star that had a rubber hose vent tube. This tube was pinched against the frame at first assembly or dealer assembly. The top of its tank was all squished down from not being vented. Yamaha and the dealer would not remedy this for the owner. I installed a brand new tank for the owner. The dealer never gave the poor guy even a clue about the rubber vent hose.

Scott
 
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