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Left my ignition on and cooked my coil.
- Thread starter Brew
- Start date
Have you tested it ?
Was the old coil connected at the time? Perhaps then just the coil got cooked.
650Skull, excellent link you gave above! Nice explanation regarding the coil getting hot if ignition left switched on!
replaced with new coil and nothing. Did I fry my whole ignition? Here's my whole scenario. Rode the bike, ran fine, parked it during a light rain and left the ignition on, came out 45 mins later and turned it off, went to start after a charge and nothing, noticed mounting holes on ends of ultimate high output coil had melted plastic covering the bolts, replaced with new coil and still nothing...
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This is to late for the old coil but you should have cut away the plastic coating off the mounting lugs on the coil. The lugs help transfer heat out of the coil into the frame.
The Pamco with e-advance has a protective circuit that shuts down the power to the coil when you turn on the key but don't start the engine. I think it's like 30 seconds, not sure on that, now if the engine fails to start and you leave the key on the power still flows.
So now is the question, How did you shut down the engine? If you have and use an engine stop switch, there is no power flowing to the ignition or coil when in the off position.
If you shut off the fuel and let it run out of fuel, then the ignition will still power the coil.
If you use the testing procedure as outlined on here and the Pamco website for checking the ignition, you can hook a voltmeter to the green wire at the coil. If the ignition is working the voltage will change from about battery voltage to about zero volts.
Power goes to coil, the green wire runs from coil to Pamco where the transistor grounds the circuit. When grounded the meter will read about zero volts. When not grounded the voltage will be about battery voltage.
How are your coil and ignition wire? Is your bike stock with the ignition and coil plugged into the stock harness red/white wires? If so then your engine stop switch controls the power to both the ignition and coil.
If you have a hand built harness do you have the coil and ignition on separate circuits? If so then your engine stop switch may only stop current flow to ignition but not to coil.
A bit more info may help us help you.
Leo
The Pamco with e-advance has a protective circuit that shuts down the power to the coil when you turn on the key but don't start the engine. I think it's like 30 seconds, not sure on that, now if the engine fails to start and you leave the key on the power still flows.
So now is the question, How did you shut down the engine? If you have and use an engine stop switch, there is no power flowing to the ignition or coil when in the off position.
If you shut off the fuel and let it run out of fuel, then the ignition will still power the coil.
If you use the testing procedure as outlined on here and the Pamco website for checking the ignition, you can hook a voltmeter to the green wire at the coil. If the ignition is working the voltage will change from about battery voltage to about zero volts.
Power goes to coil, the green wire runs from coil to Pamco where the transistor grounds the circuit. When grounded the meter will read about zero volts. When not grounded the voltage will be about battery voltage.
How are your coil and ignition wire? Is your bike stock with the ignition and coil plugged into the stock harness red/white wires? If so then your engine stop switch controls the power to both the ignition and coil.
If you have a hand built harness do you have the coil and ignition on separate circuits? If so then your engine stop switch may only stop current flow to ignition but not to coil.
A bit more info may help us help you.
Leo
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
The E-Advancer does protect you if you turn on the ignition and do not start or attempt to start the engine. However, if you try to start the engine or if the engine stops running and you leave the ignition on, then there is no protection. The idea of this was to prevent frying the coil if you just wanted to work on some electrical problem and turned on the ignition without attempting to start the engine.
I think the tci shuts some critical part of itself off anytime it doesn't see pulses from the pickup for about 5 sec. If you crank it and it doesn't start, and then you don't do anything, the neutral light brightens after about that time. In a micro it would be a timer interrupt set to run code to turn it off and the timer would be reset anytime a pulse comes in. Then I assume that part is turned back on when the first pulse arrives.
Use your VOM to measure the resistance of the primary and secondary windings of the ignition coil. The secondary is measured from one plug cap to the other plug cap. Primary should measure around 3 to 5 ohms. Measure resistance from the primary to the steel core of the coil....................it should be very high resistance. The secondary should be around 11k to 13k ohms, and add 10 k more if you have resistance caps.
I assume you have confirmed you have 12 volts at the coil and at the power to the Pamco.................i.e. fuse not blown?
I assume you have confirmed you have 12 volts at the coil and at the power to the Pamco.................i.e. fuse not blown?
the fuse was blown but i replaced it when i put the new coil in. I got 12 volts everywhere and the coil test is good.
So the coil is good.............................now test the Pamco. Pete's website has a step by step testing instruction:
http://www.yamahaxs650.com/
http://www.yamahaxs650.com/
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