Lowering Early Style 34mm Forks

Alan_E

just kick it
Messages
20
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Austin, TX
I'd like to start off by saying thanks to all you guys out there always helping all us lost souls find our way with all your knowledge.Its much appreciated.

So I know there are quite a few threads out there on lowering xs forks but most of these threads are centered around the later 35mm forks, with maybe a small section touching on the differences with the 34mm forks. The best example of this is Hugh's awesome write up on lowering xs forks.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5537

However none of the threads I've found seem to significantly mention that there are two different style of internals for the 34mm forks. The only mention I've actually found of this was by "curbbro" in the comments of Hugh's thread. "Curbbro" actually had the same dilema lowering his forks that I have. Where the internals of the 34mm forks mentioned in Hugh's thread have a metal distance tube of about an 1" or 1.5" long, and the dampening rod requires a modified 17mm socket. The internals of my 34mm forks (like in the pictures below) have a metal distance tube of about 3" or 3.5" long and the dampening rod did not require me to modify a 17mm socket.
I've read that the spacers made by Hugh do not work for these earlier 34mm forks but have read that the principles of lowering these forks should still be the same.

So my questions for you guys out there are: 1) What have you used for spacers when lowering the earlier style 34mm forks? 2) Once the lowering spacer is made, should it be placed under the damper piston(the smaller looking spacer on the dampening rod) since these earlier fork's dampening rods do not have the top out spring? 3) If I wanted to drop the forks 3", made the 3" lowering spacers and installed them, would I just end up cutting 3" off the springs in the end?

I really hope someone can help me out with this. I'd really like to lower the 34mm forks rather than do a 35mm swap. Thanks!
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    240.4 KB · Views: 443
  • image (3).jpg
    image (3).jpg
    286.6 KB · Views: 271
I'm confused about this. I never been inside my forks, can someone please tell me how adding a spacer lowers them. I can't get my head around this.
 
Ok, to lower a fork, you need to reduce the amount that the stanchion (the silver upper tube the spring goes in and which is attached to the triple trees) comes out of the lower fork tubes at full extension. If more of the stanchion remains in the fork tube, (less coming out) the lower the entire length of the fork assembly will be.
Instead of cutting the stanchion tube, you need to reduce the length of the dampening rod.
Lost yet?
The dampening rod goes down through the stanchion from the top, out of the bottom, and is bolted to the bottom of the fork tube. The top of the dampening rod is, obviously, larger than the stanchion bottom and acts as a stop. It doesn't go all the way through. There is a spring on there as well.
When the fork spring (the long one) is in, it pushes against the top of the dampening rod and the top fork cap. This is the bounce spring you get when you compress the forks.
Got it?
If you put a spacer in there, the dampening rod stop is now farther away from the bottom of the stanchion, thus keeping the stanchion from extending it's intended length.
You will also need to cut the long fork spring to fit. 1" lowering sleeve, 1" of spring is cut off.

Maybe this will help....

58DE22C6-969C-41AC-89D2-2B56CAA4ED94.jpeg


Also this....
http://www.xs650.com/threads/how-to-rebuild-xs650-forks-install-lowering-kit.5537/
 
Hi joebgd I have the same forks as you on my xs and wanted to lower 3" also, I fitted the lowering sleeve on the damping rod and just left the 3" spacer out at the top fo the Spring I did not need to cut the spring.
I was going to try this way first and if the bike sat to low at the front I was going to add the spacer back and keep cutting down till I got the right ride height, also if it sat to high I was going to cut some of the Spring.
That was my way of thinking before just cutting then regretting
 
The 3" spacer under the fork stanchion cap. In Alan_E post he is holding it in his hand.
When I did mine with the lowering sleeve fitted the Spring did not need cutting just the spacer needed leaving out.
 
Thanks for the info. My bike is stock frame and suspension. I am going to lower it an inch and do a little shorter rear shocks. It is a tall bike. I'm 6'1" and I still feel like it's a little tall for a motorcycle. Not trying to hijack a thread but if any1 has pros or cons I'd like to know on that.
 
Im 5’5” and my bike fits great. How tall is that thing?

What I have done, is to get the rear shocks set than figure out how much to lower the forks. Once the rear shocks are on, move the stanchions up through the trees to figure out the size lowering sleeve you will need. It is easier, for me, to do it that way.

Also, you need to have the bottom frame rail level. Too high of a front end can cause oil starvation to the engine.
 
Ahh, good tips. Thanks. Idk I just fealt like it's a fuz taller than it has to be. I'm gonna try adjusting the front with the trees as you suggested.
 
The 3" spacer under the fork stanchion cap. In Alan_E post he is holding it in his hand.
When I did mine with the lowering sleeve fitted the Spring did not need cutting just the spacer needed leaving out.
I'm thinking of lowering my bike 2", did U do the 3" spacer on our own or did u buy it?
Can U make me one or help me with the measurements ?

The spacer from a 35mm will not fit, right?
 
Back
Top