I bought some new float valves and seats from SUDCO for my '82 650 Seca and they didn't work. I put the old originals in and viola'.
I figured the Mikuni dealer would have OEM stuff.
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Mailman’s XS2 a full on restoration
- Thread starter Mailman
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I bought some new float valves and seats from SUDCO for my '82 650 Seca and they didn't work. I put the old originals in and viola'.
I figured the Mikuni dealer would have OEM stuff.
Do you still own that 82XJ650RJ ?
compression test?
I haven’t done it, I’ve thought about it though. I’d have to go check out a tester from an Auto parts store.
Lots of clutch lever pull experiments done today. I posted it in 2Ms clutch worm thread. Check it out.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch-worm-actuator-experiment-tidbits.31554/page-12#post-586870
I was able to achieve a significantly lighter clutch pull with a Motion Pro cable and a clutch actuating arm that has the clevis pin mounted further out towards the end of the arm.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/xs650-clutch-worm-actuator-experiment-tidbits.31554/page-12#post-586870
I was able to achieve a significantly lighter clutch pull with a Motion Pro cable and a clutch actuating arm that has the clevis pin mounted further out towards the end of the arm.
I sold it to a college student who had toooo much $$$. I should not have sold it to him...It was almost perfect..18k miles. I had it for 30+ years
and I only put in 3 batteries.
Yes, this has sometimes been my experience.
In fact, today the weather in Central New York allowed me to start up my '74 Kaw F11 Enduro 250 after having done a top end job this winter, as well as a carb rebuild. The single Mikuni VM30SC carb, which has some similar components, produced a leak just like yours, but disappeared after a couple minutes of running. Pleased to report that it ran sweetly.
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Yes, this has sometimes been my experience.
In fact, today the weather in Central New York allowed me to start up my '74 Kaw F11 Enduro 250 after having done a top end job this winter, as well as a carb rebuild. The single Mikuni VM30SC carb, which has some similar components, produced a leak just like yours, but disappeared after a couple minutes of running. Pleased to report that it ran sweetly.
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Yeah for all this, I might not find anything at fault. I went ahead and ordered material today for creating the clear tube float level check, so I’ll have that to work with.
That’s good news on your Kawasaki! No hoodlum wheelies in the neighbors yard now!
I know the possible carb related issues have all been brought up by those who have more experience. The only other thing that came to mind is your exhaust. Are you sure there are no restrictions that could potentially be causing a rich fuel mixture? This may sound idiotic, but just trying to leave no stone unturned on your awesome restore project.
Went to an auto parts store this morning and checked out their compression tester from their loaner program, a beat up looking thing,
went home and tried it and it didn’t work. Took it back and told the guy behind the counter and he just shrugged and put it back on the shelf for the next guy to discover it was broken.
I then bought a new Bosch brand tester and got my readings.
Readings were taken on a cold engine, carbs off, engine has about 2-3 minutes of total run time from days ago when I first started it.
145 lbs right cyl.
135 lbs left cyl.
Put a squirt of oil in left cyl. And tried again
140 lbs left cyl. after a shot of oil
Sounds good to me.
I predict your numbers will rise significantly as the new rings seat over the first 1000 miles.
I'd be more comfortable if the readings were more equal left to right, but I think it is very early in the life of this rebuild to say much about these numbers.
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Yeah... agree with Jeff. Should come up after breakin. I think you can scratch that off as a problem.
When a compression tester won't hold a reading, loosen or remove the schrader valves and lightly lube them.
SInce we have started a conversation about compression testing (we did, didn't we? ) I will mention that I am on my third tool, a moderately expensive item I bought about 20 years ago. My research at the time aimed me at this tester which I see now has ambiguous manufacturing origins (got it at NAPA, I recall) .
Since that time, I have confirmed it's reliability in providing the same number on repeated testing of the same engine.
In regards to calibration, I've learned that the best procedure to follow, apart from sending it to the manufacturer for an expensive technical calibration, is to test it on a known entity, such as a new motor, which I did about 5 years ago. In fact, I did so on a three engines, and came up with an adjustment figure of 6 pounds (it was reading low) , which I add to any reading I get.
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) I will mention that I am on my third tool, a moderately expensive item I bought about 20 years ago. My research at the time aimed me at this tester which I see now has ambiguous manufacturing origins (got it at NAPA, I recall) .Since that time, I have confirmed it's reliability in providing the same number on repeated testing of the same engine.
In regards to calibration, I've learned that the best procedure to follow, apart from sending it to the manufacturer for an expensive technical calibration, is to test it on a known entity, such as a new motor, which I did about 5 years ago. In fact, I did so on a three engines, and came up with an adjustment figure of 6 pounds (it was reading low) , which I add to any reading I get.
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Yup, I concur Bob, your compression seems just fine and will rise somewhat as the rings seat.
Look elsewhere....
Pete
Look elsewhere....
Pete
I've often found it's best to fix the obvious problems, and recheck things you have done. It's apparent there is a problem with the needle and seats. Getting to the bottom of that and verifying float height to me is the first thing to do.
I would also get factory made float bowl gaskets. It's one thing to make a clutch cover gasket and another to make a bowl gasket.
Another way to test that gauge would be to remove the vent valve from the bottom then TEE it in to another gauge and connect to shop air. If they both agree then you should be good to go. I always felt the more important test on any multi-cylinder engine is the variation from one cylinder to the next!
Don't go on a snipe hunt unless you're sure there are snipe in the area. Or you have pretty and gullible pretty girl with you.
Haha! Snipe hunt huh? 
I agree, I really think that the problem was occurring in my carburetors. As for the compression check, I wanted to do that anyways, just to see where I’m at. I also figured that the numbers would get better after break in.
When the two cylinders came up 10lbs apart, I thought that I would check my valves again just to be sure I didn’t have one too tight. Both jugs were set right at spec, so I can now look at the carburetors with more confidence.
I have full confidence in my Pamco ignition, new wires, and plug caps.
Now I’m waiting on my clear tube set up and I’ll give them a check. I also spent some time today trying to sand off the clear coat that was ruined on my engine case.
I agree, I really think that the problem was occurring in my carburetors. As for the compression check, I wanted to do that anyways, just to see where I’m at. I also figured that the numbers would get better after break in.
When the two cylinders came up 10lbs apart, I thought that I would check my valves again just to be sure I didn’t have one too tight. Both jugs were set right at spec, so I can now look at the carburetors with more confidence.
I have full confidence in my Pamco ignition, new wires, and plug caps.
Now I’m waiting on my clear tube set up and I’ll give them a check. I also spent some time today trying to sand off the clear coat that was ruined on my engine case.
