Seems Like a good time and place to post this question. Could we drill a hole in a non-barbed carb manifold and install a piece of brass tubing? I know we'd have to notch the manifold clamp to clear the tube as well, but could easily do that with a dremel.

I've been thinking of modifying some non vacuum barb manifolds this way.

I’m sure that could be done. I had considered that option as well.
 
Yes you can. In fact, that's what mine are. When I replaced them, the barbed ones were out of stock so I had to get them without. My '78 needed them for the vacuum petcocks so I installed some. I "liberated" the brass nipples from my old manifolds and used them. One had come loose and pulled right out, which was one of the main reasons for replacing them. The other, I had to "work" out. They're just a pressed in fit with some sealer or glue around them. I pressed the barb in a little to break it free, then pressed it back out some. I used a nut, bolt, and short sleeve placed inside the manifold to create a little screw jack for pressing it out. I "worked" it in and out a bunch of times until it loosened enough so I could pull it out.

As I said, the original barbs are just a pressed in fit. I drilled a hole in the new manifold slightly smaller than the barb O.D., smeared some Yamabond on the end, and pressed it in. 3/16" comes to mind for the drill bit size but don't hold me to that. Best you check the barb size. I did this when I was first renovating the bike back in '05. Those manifolds have been in use and holding up fine ever since.

You'll need to cut a "U" shaped notch in the manifold tin cover is all, or acquire some later ones that already have it. The barb gets mounted pretty close to the engine side of the manifold and doesn't interfere at all with the clamp .....

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Thanks for the confirmation 5twins. I couldn't see any reason why it couldn't or shouldn't be done but never hurts to ask.
 
Robin, you should have barbed manifolds and the notched tin shrouds on your '78 that you can use as a guide. If you ever do replace the manifolds on the '78, keep the old ones as a "template" and for the barbs. It's difficult to find barbed '78-'79 manifolds but the earlier non-barbed ones are plentiful. I can foresee having to do this "operation" again because of that.

Barbs can be "liberated" from other Yamaha models as well. What readily comes to mind are the Viragos, but I'm sure there's others. In fact, one of the Virago manifolds actually has 2 barbs on it .....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor...570333?hash=item5d6f05335d:g:fV4AAOSwUg9abthZ
 
Yes, my 78's are like that 5twins which is where I got the idea.

Thank you again for all the info.

In place of proper OEM Barb's could we also just use a piece of proper diameter brass hobby tubing with some Yamabond?
 
If you had a buddy who works on automotive brake or fuel lines, they could likely make a nice flare on a piece of brass tubing to make a nipple that retain the cap very nicely.

Pete
 
If you had a buddy who works on automotive brake or fuel lines, they could likely make a nice flare on a piece of brass tubing to make a nipple that retain the cap very nicely.

Pete

Until you said that , I had totally forgotten the art of making ones own brake lines with a flaring tool. Old school mechanics at its best!
 
Hey great idea Pete. I have a double flaring tool. Used to change all my own brake lines.

Been so long since I layed on the floor doing that job I forgot about it.
 
Bob speaking of manifolds i hope yours are in good condition because the OEM manifolds for the early models are getting very hard to find. JBM industries http://jbmindustries.com is making them still for the early bikes so we still are able to get replacements. You can not use the metal covers on there manifolds

I snagged a couple of NOS from eBay a while back. I was worried that they might be stiff but they are nice and pliable still.
 
Man! I wish I would’ve scrubbed the outside of this engine clean while it was still in the frame ,and able to roll it around. Rookie mistake. It’s 10X harder to clean this pig up on the bench. I’m rolling it around and blocking it with wood and scraping. Every side, top and bottom has thick crud that needs to be removed. Take a look at the last photo, that’s the guard that goes over the shift shaft, I cleaned it up so you could see it. Isn’t there supposed to be a rubber pad on that thing so the chain doesn’t rub a groove into it , like it already did?
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Lookin' good Bob. You're getting there.

My left case is off of my 73 TX so I could get at the clutch adjuster to free it up. Just had a peak and there is no rubber pad on mine either like we have on our 447 engines. I guess this came later, or mine is missing as well, which is pretty unlikely. My chain is still on but I can see grooves cut into mine just like yours

Oh, and I see seals in your future too!
 
Lookin' good Bob. You're getting there.

My left case is off of my 73 TX so I could get at the clutch adjuster to free it up. Just had a peak and there is no rubber pad on mine either like we have on our 447 engines. I guess this came later, or mine is missing as well, which is pretty unlikely. My chain is still on but I can see grooves cut into mine just like yours

Oh, and I see seals in your future too!

Wow, you too huh? My engine only had 5,000 miles on it. That’s a lot of wear on that guard for such a small amount of mileage. I also bought a complete set of seals, I figured while I’m in there I’ll replace everything I can reach.

Hey, I just noticed your Sprocket Blockit!
Nicely done!

Yeah! My high tech 1 X 2 sprocket locket!
 
Huh, interesting that we're both missing those rubber guides but when you see there are only 2 little pins holding it on, no big surprise I guess. A loose sloppy chain would rip it right off.

I wonder if we could rivet a thin strip of UHMW plastic or something on there?
 
I was trying to think of a repair solution also.
There were several used ones on eBay, all missing that rubber strip.
 
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