I'm thinking, the concern is the engine was sitting for so long and the PO started and ran for a sec without any lube.......yes?

Look in the spark plug hole. Check for a definitive line where the pistons would have been sitting, or any scoring by running the engine dry.. .................With 4 hands pics can be taken through the spark plug hole.................If things look ok do some lube and slowly turn the motor by hand and check the Valve face's through the plug hole. With the dry weather, condition of the bike, (lack of even surface rust), and if the engine was completely sealed, (i assume it was), then it should be a runner.


If there is an obvious rust line on the bore then's a different process. But i'm not feeling that.
 
Yup - I concur with Dude and 5T.

On my '76 - the clutch was stuck solid when I first got her. I changed the oil and it was still dead stuck so I lashed the lever to the handlebar with a bungee and popped the bike into gear - and then start rocking it Fred Flintstone style on the garage floor. After about 20 minutes of that, the rear wheel began to turn and after a short session of more duck-walking around in the garage, she was freed right up. I replaced the clutch cable (all of the cables in fact) and haven't looked back on any sludge type issues. The oil comes out of the engine looking slightly discoloured, but not unduly icky and so I am calling it clean inside.

Now, the danged carb floats are a different matter....
I have always cleared my clutch plates the Flintstone manner (and have the skid marks on my garage floor to prove it:)), despite the criticism of others, but I believe I have saved myself from multiple charley horses doing it this way.
.
 
Yup - again, I concur with 5T - this one doesn't sound like it was ever messed up.

Frankly, aside from the tires, it looks incredibly well preserved and in fact, it looks as if someone specifically put it away in exactly the correct fashion (with some lube down the holes and a squirt of oil-spray up the tailpipes etc.).
 
Well thank you gentlemen for your input on that. I don’t intend to try and restart the bike for a while yet. I intend to do all the pre requisite inspections first ( as Skull noted ) and a lot of clean up under the covers. It sounds like the best way to proceed then will just be some frequent oil changes at first and with some lighter oil as 5Twins suggested. Plus new filters and gaskets all around.
I’ve been bogged down with this gas tank.
The guy I bought it from , remember, ran a wrecking yard and had access to a steam cleaner. When he was trying to get the bike going he dumped a bottle of CLR, shook the tank and the proceeded to spray the steam cleaner inside. He really did not do me any favors. He didn’t put a dent in the rust. All he did was leave rust streaks running down the side of the gas tank, he gave no thought to preserving the paint. He put new petcocks on it, but they must’ve leaked, so he used what looks like permatex gasket cement around the petcock bolts and then must’ve had permatex stuck to his fingers because there were black fingerprints stuck all over the tank. It’s been a lot to clean up and I’m not finished.
Removing the rust:
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First I thought I’d try something easy, I could always do something more aggressive if this fails. I made a bucket of hot soapy water poured some in and then dropped 3 feet of heavy chain. And shook shook shook.
AB6949B3-268D-4040-95DC-CB1DB2C75267.jpeg
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FAIL FAIL FAIL!
so then I went to the hardware store and bought some miracle juice Metal Rescue.
But I failed to realize two things. It was $23 for a gallon jug, that I thought you add water to.
Wrong. I would’ve needed four of those jugs.
Second I went on their website to read usage instructions and found one little caveat. Usually it’s safe on paint. They said it works by attacking iron oxide and some old paint jobs, especially orange and reds use iron oxides for color. So it goes back
FE42B0B0-EA5C-40C1-BD48-4754F2D1B9B5.jpeg

Next up, white vinegar, four gallons worth. Very inexpensive.
50246498-84A2-4AD9-8528-F14A4520905D.jpeg

Filled er up and let it sit out in the sun. Left it there for 24 hours. Now here’s where some guys get it wrong. I’ve watched YouTube videos where a guy will do this and when he pours out the vinegar, nothing happens. All it does is soften the rust up and loosen it from the metal. I poured out the vinegar and sure enough it looked pretty much like when I poured it into the tank. I then filled it about halfway up with water and I dumped about 2 pounds of drywall screws and nails in there and then shook that tank until my arms fell off.
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About the first five times I did this the bottom of the bucket had a bunch of what looked like black sand. Here is about the fifteenth time I did this and you can see how much stuff is still coming out.
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I proceeded to do this at least another fifteen times until the water came out clear.
And you want to hear something fun. Something else came out , two marbles, Haha!
I pictured some kid dropping those in his dads or granddads tank forty years ago and it just made me laugh. And you know what? I’m going to put them back in when it’s roadworthy! They’ll be my good luck charm!
5C43190B-6016-4736-876B-D86BE01823D3.jpeg


After drying out the tank I took it into the shop for a look over. Here you can see one of the rust stains the owner left with his steam cleaner.
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I think I can probably work that out. Underneath though is going to require more effort. There were rust spots and it looks like the first owner took silver paint ( silver?!) on a paint brush and just slopped it on.
6CA1CF41-535B-4D63-B572-871EB7EBBBD9.jpeg
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I took all that off so I could also remove the underlying rust.
EED8F8F6-DDD4-43FB-BAC6-E3663575AED2.jpeg

The inside of the tunnel also has a lot of rust running pretty much from front to back all along the bottom edge. I also removed all of that. I will clean and sand the whole inside of the tunnel and probably just shoot it with some rustoleum paint. The white and red that show from the outside are going to require a more careful approach, I’m looking for some good touch up paint.
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One more thing, I also broke down those new petcocks. Yeah, almost completely plugged with rust. They got a good cleaning and are awaiting re assembly.
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So that’s where I’m at right now. I’m preparing to order new gaskets, filters, spark plugs, the usual first step stuff. Hopefully I’ll get to some meatier projects soon.
Now for the love of God, can I please stop shaking that gas tank!?
F2C4FDED-C235-47E0-A999-7C62ACD8E5C0.gif
 
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A "labor of Love", that's for sure.

Bob, if you still have rust after all this agitation,
I have had much success (others have, too) with Evapo Rust, available at Harbor Freight.
  • Super Safe Rust Remover
  • Contains No Acids
  • Non-Toxic, Non-Flammable, Odorless, safe on skin
  • Biodegradable
  • Contains No Acids
  • Non-Toxic
  • Biodegradable
upload_2018-3-5_18-36-18.jpeg

One gallon will do it. Slosh it around.

Nice video:
 
Atta-boy Mailman - you’ve got it on the run!

The fact that the crap keeps coming out IS the victory you are seeking. If the muck stopped coming out - and the tank still looked bad - you’d have to move to plan “C”. I know it is challenging - but I’d keep going as you are - and I’m confident you will succeed in cleaning up that tank. Essentially, that is what the tank-tumbler did on my XS750 tank over the course of 24-36 hours. My guess is that you have already shifted a lot of the rust that is in there.

One suggestion would be to try the “sleeping bag / clothes dryer” trick (at a laundromat) and see what $10 worth of quarters on the “fluff” cycle gets you.... For rubber stoppers - hit a wine making store and look at their stock of rubber bungs.

EDIT: that Evapo-rust stuff from HF suggested by Dude looks really good as well!

On the paint damage: I am not a paint expert, but I’ll bet that a bit of judicious buffing would help a lot with those stains.

As always my friend....:popcorn:

Pete
 
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A "labor of Love", that's for sure.

Bob, if you still have rust after all this agitation,
I have had much success (others have, too) with Evapo Rust, available at Harbor Freight.
  • Super Safe Rust Remover
  • Contains No Acids
  • Non-Toxic, Non-Flammable, Odorless, safe on skin
  • Biodegradable
  • Contains No Acids
  • Non-Toxic
  • Biodegradable
View attachment 114605
One gallon will do it. Slosh it around.

Nice video:

Thanks, I might yet have to do something like that. Even though I knocked out all the stuck on rust, it almost immediately flash rusted. Instead of crust, I have a coating of fine dust.

Atta-boy Mailman - you’ve got it on the run!

The fact that the crap keeps coming out IS the victory you are seeking. If the muck stopped coming out - and the tank still looked bad - you’d have to move to plan “C”. I know it is challenging - but I’d keep going as you are - and I’m confident you will succeed in cleaning up that tank. Essentially, that is what the tank-tumbler did on my XS750 tank over the course of 24-36 hours. My guess is that you have already shifted a lot of the rust that is in there.

One suggestion would be to try the “sleeping bag / clothes dryer” trick (at a laundromat) and see what $10 worth of quarters on the “fluff” cycle gets you.... For rubber stoppers - hit a wine making store and look at their stock of rubber bungs.

EDIT: that Evapo-rust stuff from HF suggested by Dude looks really good as well!

On the paint damage: I am not a paint expert, but I’ll bet that a bit of judicious buffing would help a lot with those stains.

As always my friend....:popcorn:

Pete

Thanks Pete,
Regarding the rust stain streaks, there are several, I tried a little blue magic and they lightened up considerably.
I do think some polishing compound and a buffer will probably take it all off.

Do you have a compressor? HF makes a nice little cheap siphon pressure washer. You stick the feed hose in a bucket of hot, soapy water and blast away. It knocks quite a bit of crap out of a tank. The long neck let's you get down in there pretty good too .....

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/specialty-air-tools/engine-cleaning-gun-68290.html

Yes I do have a compressor, and isn't that just the coolest little thing? I just might have to get me one of those!
 
It may be just my luck but I found 72 tanks to be the most likely to be rusted messes, more than either 71s or 73's, maybe the worst year for rust in the tank. 73s usually have a bad rear seam. I think you just aren't making enough of an effort here Bob!
I was looking at a single petcock tank for madness took down an undented "new Yamaha Red" late special tank it was sun faded to gray with significant bare metal and rust, the chrome on the cap completely bubbled up. Opened the cap and inside is clean as a whistle won't even need to rinse it before I fill it with gas. Petcock was all clean just need to polish and replace the rubber valve. yah just never know.
Someone you know mentioned checking bottom seams for rust on a 72 tank......
 
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I’ve been wondering about something and I thought I’d throw this out there.
Everything on this bike that turns rotates or swivels feels gummed up and sticky. The bike doesn’t like to roll, the steering head resists turning. It feels like everything is packed in stale petrified grease. That stuff doesn’t concern me because I will be replacing or cleaning and repacking all the bearings. Here’s my question, I’m thinking that the inside of the engine has to be gummed up with gunk too. Has anyone used an oil additive to try and scrub up and dissolve old oil buildup? I know it probably wouldn’t be good for the friction plates of the clutch, but I’m inclined to put new ones in anyway. Like some of these products?
View attachment 114565 View attachment 114566 View attachment 114567 View attachment 114568

Bob,

I am a fan of Moreys oil treatment.
 
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