Mailman’s XS2 a full on restoration

[650Skull]

Man you were brave throwing those sharp screws in there. I have used Vinegar very successfully. I have also used Molasis in a water solution, this takes longer but i think it leaves a better finish. Where the vinegar is very hash and quick, the reside has to be removed or it will keep rusting. Malasis is a ferment process so time is also dependent on temperature, (not a problem in cacti country), and fermentation reside is not as harsh and is easy to flush. In fact all i would use is a bit of 2 stoke petrol and a good rise a couple of times. No water would have to go into the tank after the anti rust process. I have done rusty tools and a rusty set of rusted gears and it works.

Gates open but another option to play with some time maybe

 

[weekendrider]

If you use vinegar it takes awhile. . . . like several days and then one or two more.
This is after two days.

 

[gggGary]

Electrolysis works also, battery charger and washing soda. I've cleaned up a lot of motorcycle parts with it, like side covers and battery boxes but not a tank yet.
There's a thread(s) "somewhere".
Found it [URL="http://www.xs650.com/threads/battery-box-rust-whats-best-way-to-deal-with-it.43213/page-2#post-431378"]Battery box rust What's best way to deal with it.[/URL]

 

[Mailman]

Man you were brave throwing those sharp screws in there.

Where the vinegar is very hash and quick, the reside has to be removed or it will keep rusting.

Yeah I wanted something with sharp edges to better scuff off the rust.

I also failed to mention that I neutralized the acid in the vinegar by adding baking soda to my first bucket of rinse water. It was too funny , the baking soda reacted with the vinegar residue and as soon as I shook the tank it blew my gas cap open!

 

[Mailman]

Electrolysis works also, battery charger and washing soda. I've cleaned up a lot of motorcycle parts with it, like side covers and battery boxes but not a tank yet.
There's a thread(s) "somewhere".
Found it Battery box rust What's best way to deal with it.

I’ve seen the electrolysis method , even considered it, but I wasn’t sure how well it would work on scaly rust.

 

[weekendrider]

It works . . . . .ok. It is time comsuming to monitor.
I think this qualifies as scaley rust?

Once the anode is covered it quits. At first I tried just a piece of welding rod.
The surface area quickly became covered and the process slowed down considerable.

So I added/tacked a strip of gauge metal to it for more surface area.

You do need to leave room for expansion. Exactly how much is a guessing game.

The end result is OK but the extra cost/time makes vinegar more attractive to me. Less fuss and muss.

Here is another part done with electrolysis.
Before.

And after.

I had read the glowing reports of this method. Bein from mizre I had to be shown.
Not impressed.

 

[cra-z1]

The tanks can be a problem. So far you are doing exactly as I do. Hot soapy water and some small screws and shake. Do this multiple times. Once you get it pretty clean, I put it in the drier with some more small screws and let it go for a few hours. Still a lot of rust, so more soapy hot water. Back in the drier until water comes out clean. Then metal rescue and rinse. This is for all steel tanks. The XS2 i had painted and had the painter send it out to have chemially cleaned. However he did not realize that the metal around the filler neck is not steel. It is some type of soft metal that will be eaten away with aciid. Im not sure how all the cleaners will react with that filler neck. So be cautious if your using an acid of any strength. Most will be fairly mild but check the instruction. I was lucky and had several XS2 tanks and was able to send him another. Although the XS2 tanks cleaned up good I still opted to seal that tank with POR 15. Caswell also makes a sealer that has had good results.
http://www.caswellplating.com/epoxy...I3KWcipjY2QIViD5pCh3eUggxEAAYAyAAEgK7w_D_BwE#

 

[Mailman]

The tanks can be a problem. So far you are doing exactly as I do. Hot soapy water and some small screws and shake. Do this multiple times. Once you get it pretty clean, I put it in the drier with some more small screws and let it go for a few hours. Still a lot of rust, so more soapy hot water. Back in the drier until water comes out clean. Then metal rescue and rinse. This is for all steel tanks. The XS2 i had painted and had the painter send it out to have chemially cleaned. However he did not realize that the metal around the filler neck is not steel. It is some type of soft metal that will be eaten away with aciid. Im not sure how all the cleaners will react with that filler neck. So be cautious if your using an acid of any strength. Most will be fairly mild but check the instruction. I was lucky and had several XS2 tanks and was able to send him another. Although the XS2 tanks cleaned up good I still opted to seal that tank with POR 15. Caswell also makes a sealer that has had good results.
http://www.caswellplating.com/epoxy...I3KWcipjY2QIViD5pCh3eUggxEAAYAyAAEgK7w_D_BwE#

Hey thanks for the heads up in that Caswell sealer. I just might consider it. There was enough rust along the bottom edges of the tank that I’m a little bit worried about the possibility of a leak. That Caswell is very affordable too!

 

[YamadudeXS650C]

The issue I have with tank sealers is that it is irreversible.
I wouldn't seal a tank unless it actually had a leak, like from a rust pinhole or such.

 

[650Skull]

+1 with Dude on tank liners

Judging by the pics the seam's look ok, some miner surface rust without any obvious pitting.

 

[Mailman]

Been working on the rust along the bottom edges of the tank. Sanded down all the rust along the edges, sanded the whole underside of the tunnel. I treated the seam edges with plain old, brush it on, oil based Rustoleum.
It’s very hard to see when the tank is on and the color is very close, plus it’s a good thick sealing paint. For the underside of the tunnel I bought a spray can of Ford red metallic that is very close in color. I haven’t applied that yet, I need to go get some primer to hit it with first.
But I’m making progress. Some before and afters.

I’m currently talking to a shop that does paintless dent removal to address a few shallow dents. It tough to find someone though. They all do cars and most don’t have the special tools for bike gas tanks.
I feel like I’m making a little progress.

 

[Jim]

I feel like I’m making a little progress.

Looks like it too

 

[MaxPete]

The paint touchup looks really good Mailman - nice work!!

Pete

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

The bottom seam edge is where mine started leaking. Weeped under the paint and lifted (bubbled) it. Used evaporust, and it got worse. I had to seal with Caswell. This is where gggGary's borescope would come in handy...

 

[Mailman]

The bottom seam edge is where mine started leaking. Weeped under the paint and lifted (bubbled) it. Used evaporust, and it got worse. I had to seal with Caswell. This is where gggGary's borescope would come in handy...

Yeah , I’m going to keep the repairs pretty simple here at first. I’m holding out the Caswell as plan B.

 

[cra-z1]

The paint on the bottom does look good.

 

[Mailman]

The paint on the bottom does look good.

Thanks, I don’t think you’ll even be able to see it when it’s mounted.

 

[mrtwowheel]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BHYY3...t=&hvlocphy=9017380&hvtargid=pla-351417556295

Love this stuff. I've used it inside headlight buckets, inside chain guards, underneath fenders. Used it as a primer before paint or black undercoating. I have headlight buckets that were treated with this over 20 years ago and still no rust. Brushes on real thin, not thick like paint. I would use this anywhere there was rust, after sanding or grinding.

Available at hardware stores and Walmart, 8 oz. bottle goes a long ways, and great shelf life.

Scott

 

[Mailman]

Looks like a good product Scott!

 

[mrtwowheel]

I redid that link for the Rustoleum Rust Reformer, I only pay less than half that price. Confusing now that Rustoleum sells a paint using the same name.

Scott