YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Thanks, 5twins.
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Manometer 3/16 hose clamps.
- Thread starter hotrdd
- Start date
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- Tags
- carburetors
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
5twins,
Where would I find some nice vacuum fittings (nipples) like the one you showed an image of earlier (6-2-11 @ 1532) in this thread?
I read about the modified grease fitting method, but was looking to buy a couple of threaded vacuum fittings (M6 x 1.0), just not sure where to look locally (Lowes or Home Depot or automotive store..) or online.
Where would I find some nice vacuum fittings (nipples) like the one you showed an image of earlier (6-2-11 @ 1532) in this thread?
I read about the modified grease fitting method, but was looking to buy a couple of threaded vacuum fittings (M6 x 1.0), just not sure where to look locally (Lowes or Home Depot or automotive store..) or online.
SeattleUnderliner
2 wheels forever
Man oh man. I should probably do this, but i have no idea where to start. Anyone live in Seattle and want to tinker over a six-pack? (Shit, with how tedious this is i may need a full 24 rack).
3M at 650 Central sells them. The ones in my pic were given to me years ago by an ex bike mechanic and I have no idea where he got them. If you have a bike bone yard near by, you can find these in old petcocks sometimes.
hotrdd
XS650 Junkie
I ended up using some automotive bleeders bolts that where correct and seem to work fine.
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
Thanks for the great ideas.
I just came across some stuff that Motion Pro sells for carb sync work including permanent and temporary 6 mm adapters...
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/search/overview/brass/
Still on the subject of carbs, but switching gears to Screws:
1) Float Bowl Screws (M4 x 0.7 ??)
2) Diaphragm Cover (Carb Lids) Screws for BS 38 CV's (M5 x 0.8 ?)
Question:
Should I replace the above Phillips head screws to Hex Socket (Allen) Screws?
Is this the recommended screw to switch over to?
What about standard hex head screws?
Is Torx (T##) an acceptable or recommended choice for these carb applications? Not sure how easy those are to find in metric.
I just came across some stuff that Motion Pro sells for carb sync work including permanent and temporary 6 mm adapters...
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/search/overview/brass/
Still on the subject of carbs, but switching gears to Screws:
1) Float Bowl Screws (M4 x 0.7 ??)
2) Diaphragm Cover (Carb Lids) Screws for BS 38 CV's (M5 x 0.8 ?)
Question:
Should I replace the above Phillips head screws to Hex Socket (Allen) Screws?
Is this the recommended screw to switch over to?
What about standard hex head screws?
Is Torx (T##) an acceptable or recommended choice for these carb applications? Not sure how easy those are to find in metric.
Yes, those would be the nipples you need (in the M6 size). I have quite a few Motion Pro tools and they're very nice. If you're going to place an order with them, I highly recommend you get a few additional items. First, a set of their T-handled Philips screwdrivers. These things are just wonderful and the best thing to use if you don't want rounded out heads. Buy the set of 3, it's cheaper than buying them individually .....
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0146/
Also, their 3/8" drive T-handle. This will turn your entire socket set into T-handles .....
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0159/
I use S.S. Allens on my carbs. The thread pitch and screw sizes you mentioned are correct. The bowls take 12mm long screws originally but if you use the proper "high collar" type lock washer made for Allen screws, it is thicker so the 12 falls a bit short. Ideally, 13mm is the perfect length for an Allen but nobody makes that. I cut down 16s. You can use 14s in 3 of the holes and let them stick through a bit but that 4th hole under the choke assembly needs a screw just the right length. Too long and it will bottom out against the choke before the bowl is tight. Keep turning it and you strip the threads out of the hole.
The tops need two different lengths, 16s where there are brackets, 14s where it is the top only. So, for your '76 carb set, you will need 5 @ 16 and 3 @ 14.
A note to anyone else reading this - these are the sizes for the BS38s, the 34s are different.
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0146/
Also, their 3/8" drive T-handle. This will turn your entire socket set into T-handles .....
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0159/
I use S.S. Allens on my carbs. The thread pitch and screw sizes you mentioned are correct. The bowls take 12mm long screws originally but if you use the proper "high collar" type lock washer made for Allen screws, it is thicker so the 12 falls a bit short. Ideally, 13mm is the perfect length for an Allen but nobody makes that. I cut down 16s. You can use 14s in 3 of the holes and let them stick through a bit but that 4th hole under the choke assembly needs a screw just the right length. Too long and it will bottom out against the choke before the bowl is tight. Keep turning it and you strip the threads out of the hole.
The tops need two different lengths, 16s where there are brackets, 14s where it is the top only. So, for your '76 carb set, you will need 5 @ 16 and 3 @ 14.
A note to anyone else reading this - these are the sizes for the BS38s, the 34s are different.
YL82
Perpetual Restorationist
I was able to pick up a couple dozen each of the M4's and M5's in 16 mm's and the washers locally and it only cost me $5.00, so I was happy with that minimal investment.
Was wondering whether I should cut these 16 mm screws to proper length with a dremel or by hand with a hack saw?
Those are my current options.
Are there torque specs for any of the carb screws? Do I look at Clymer or Haynes for these and are they based upon thread diameter?
Is the use of Loctite Threadlocker recommended for stainless steel screws going into Aluminum threads (in carbs, for example) to prevent corrosion? I've read that somewhere....
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Bead Blasting: Any problems with having the butterfly bracket (between carbs) and the aluminum carb covers bead blasted to clean them up a little?
Was wondering whether I should cut these 16 mm screws to proper length with a dremel or by hand with a hack saw?
Those are my current options.
Are there torque specs for any of the carb screws? Do I look at Clymer or Haynes for these and are they based upon thread diameter?
Is the use of Loctite Threadlocker recommended for stainless steel screws going into Aluminum threads (in carbs, for example) to prevent corrosion? I've read that somewhere....
------
Bead Blasting: Any problems with having the butterfly bracket (between carbs) and the aluminum carb covers bead blasted to clean them up a little?
Last edited:
Rexxis
Almost there...
If anybody knows where I can buy the M6 x 1.0 barbed fitting(at bottom of pic), then be my guest and please share. I've been hunting all over the web for one now for over an hour to no avail. Frustrating to say the least..
Posted via Mobile
Posted via Mobile
hotrdd
XS650 Junkie
When I was hunting for barbed fittings I ended up finding M6 x 1.0 brake bleeder bolts. Because they only have a small hole in the one end they also keep the monometer from bouncing all over the place.
Rexxis
Almost there...
If anybody knows where I can buy the M6 x 1.0 barbed fitting(at bottom of pic), then be my guest and please share. I've been hunting all over the web for one now for over an hour to no avail. Frustrating to say the least..
Posted via Mobile
Oops, I didn't realize there was a 2nd page to this thread, therein lies my answer. Motion pro!
Thanks for this tip hotrdd
Lasper01
XS650 Addict
I had to file the head of the screw down to match the hose diameter.. 
Brian902
XS650 Junkie
I used 2 stroke mix oil (VBA actually) for the fluid in my manometer. If it digests that it will only smoke a little.
And put 150 main jets in the line half way between the gauge and the bike. The 150's did a great job of reducing flutter.
But they are still sensitive and 1/16 of a revolution on the adjusting screw of my VM34 will result in a 1 to 2 inch difference in from level.
With patience you will get a very accurate job.
And put 150 main jets in the line half way between the gauge and the bike. The 150's did a great job of reducing flutter.
But they are still sensitive and 1/16 of a revolution on the adjusting screw of my VM34 will result in a 1 to 2 inch difference in from level.
With patience you will get a very accurate job.
Yamalovin, That's a nice gauge you have there. Before you hook it up you want to get the sync pretty close. Eyeballing the butterflies with the carbs off, or using 1/4 inch wide strips of paper as feeler gauges under thye butterflies will get it very close.
If very far off, when you hook them up and start the engine it will suck the fluid out of your manometer very quickly.
Long hoses between the manometer and bike lets you see this happening and gives you a chance to shut the bike off before it happens.
XSJohn reccomened using fish tank air valves in the lines to control the flutter.
I just use it my home made straight up. Just watch the top and bottom of the flutter and even it out. Easier to see once you have it hooked up.
Oh and to answer the first question, the hose should fit tight enough to the fittings so clamps are not needed.
Leo
If very far off, when you hook them up and start the engine it will suck the fluid out of your manometer very quickly.
Long hoses between the manometer and bike lets you see this happening and gives you a chance to shut the bike off before it happens.
XSJohn reccomened using fish tank air valves in the lines to control the flutter.
I just use it my home made straight up. Just watch the top and bottom of the flutter and even it out. Easier to see once you have it hooked up.
Oh and to answer the first question, the hose should fit tight enough to the fittings so clamps are not needed.
Leo
