mikesxs reg/rec question

[tfe1870]

just installed a solid state regulator/rectifier from mikesxs on my 79 stock xs650. wiring looked simple since it seems like all the wiring was color-coded to stock. my question: shouldn't the green wire going to ungrounded brush carry 12v instead of 8v that it is currently reading?

 

[xjwmx]

I'm not sure, but I think that is an analog voltage that controls the output of the generator. But the important thing is if you have 14-15v at the battery when revved up.

 

[tfe1870]

it is not charging at all, trying to figure out if i have miswired or is reg/rec defective. if you do not have 12v to brush the "slap test" will not work, i think.

 

[tfe1870]

all of the old posts that i found on forum have the rec/reg with different colored wiring and seems like most of them were with modified wiring harness.

 

[xjwmx]

I was going from memory. I know the green wire up at the connector on the left side works that way. 0v on it will give max voltage at the battery.

What you have to do is match the color codes on what you have to standard, if they aren't the same. I would go by the position of the wires in the connector, see what colors they plug into, then use the schematic to correct the colors in your reg/rec if needed.

 

[weekendrider]

Have you seen Limey Bikes testing post in any of the threads you have looked at?
He/they found some are defective from the supplier and gave a way to test for that.
Search for reg/rec posts with Limey Bikes as the poster. I would hunt it down but am on my phone. Small buttons, ten thumbs. . . .

 

[tfe1870]

yes i have seen limeybikes post but the wires are different colors than mine so am confused. is his blue =to my brown and the brown=my grn? if so that is the wire im reading 8v

 

[tfe1870]

I was going from memory. I know the green wire up at the connector on the left side works that way. 0v on it will give max voltage at the battery.

What you have to do is match the color codes on what you have to standard, if they aren't the same. I would go by the position of the wires in the connector, see what colors they plug into, then use the schematic to correct the colors in your reg/rec if needed.

the colors on the rec/reg match colors on bike, what i was referencing were the colors on the prev. posts which seem to be a year old. but if voltage on green wire is not 12v the "slap test" will not work do to lack of voltage? i got that from diagnostic worksheet.

 

[xjwmx]

The lower voltage at the brush is normal. Step 2 and 3 of Curley's Charging Guide. Step 2, if you fail the slap test, the step 3 is ground the green wire up at the connector I mentioned, which allows full current through the brush. So that lower voltage you're seeing is normal under some conditions. You have the Charging Guide, don't you? 4g has revised it and it's probably in the tech guide up top.

 

[tfe1870]

The lower voltage at the brush is normal. Step 2 and 3 of Curley's Charging Guide. Step 2, if you fail the slap test, the step 3 is ground the green wire up at the connector I mentioned, which allows full current through the brush. So that lower voltage you're seeing is normal under some conditions. You have the Charging Guide, don't you? 4g has revised it and it's probably in the tech guide up top.

do you leave the wire connected and run a jumper wire to ground or do you remove from plug?

 

[xjwmx]

Leave it plugged together. One way to get to the wire is stick a sharp pin through it. If you have a helper they might be able to "backprobe" one side or the other of the connector with a piece of wire. Or you can just skin a place on the wire and wrap it later with tape.

P.S. If the Guide tells you you have a bad component, most often in my experience it isn't the component but the connection to it, especially the crimp on the lugs in the housing. So before you finally decide the component is bad you should check resistance from wire to wire, i.e. through the connector and both crimps in it.

 

[tfe1870]

reinstalled original rectifier and regulator volt meter showing 13.5 @ idle and 14.5 @ 3000 rpm so im assuming bad part from Mikes only problem now is no headlite. is xs650 electrical designed by Lucas," prince of darkness"? LOL

 

[xjwmx]

Quite the opposite of Lucas. In fact your original stuff is still working

I think I see better what you have now -- the $108 thing? Says it comes with instructions. So if you followed them and it didn't work it's broken I guess.

For your headlight, see if you have continuity from the black wire to ground while jiggling it around some. Then check 12v at the bulb -- if it's not there, just trace back to where it stops -- easy.

 

[Royboy]

Here is my experience with that part from Mikes:

http://www.xs650.com/threads/mikes-xs-regulator-rectifier-total-frustration.46838/

roy

 

[motormike]

Same issues.. today... 79' Special.. toss'd the points... installed electronic ignition... made brackets to support the coils, other related bits.. soldered, heat shrunk connections.... also tossed the old rectifier and regulator.... installed the combined unit from Mike's... soldered the 3 white wires, red wire, blk wire.. heat shrunk... install in the accompanying white block.. then the other lead from the unit.. grn wire and brown wire.... NO blk wire.... on the stock system there is a blk wire.. I assumed it wasn't needed and wired through the new unit. Again.. grn and brown wire soldered, heat shrunk..insert in the new white block. There were no directions with this package.
The moment of truth.... key on....hit the starter...fired straight away.... checked with a time'n light...need'd a slight tweak .. then right on the mark.. runs great.... (we also went thru the carbs)
Checked the charge'n system.... battery voltage only.... no charge'n. We know the old system worked... even re-installed it to verify the system worked, 13.9-14.2 volts... did the " slap test ".. pass'd... Then we installed the new Mike's unit again.. and still no charge'n.

 

[xjwmx]

If somebody took a picture of the instructions and posted it here maybe it would help.

 

[tfe1870]

Quite the opposite of Lucas. In fact your original stuff is still working

I think I see better what you have now -- the $108 thing? Says it comes with instructions. So if you followed them and it didn't work it's broken I guess.

For your headlight, see if you have continuity from the black wire to ground while jiggling it around some. Then check 12v at the bulb -- if it's not there, just trace back to where it stops -- easy.

yes the $108.00 part. the instructions i had to download from website, was just a drawing not very clear to us electrically challenged. the H/L not working, i forgot to reconnect the yellow wire, so all is good.and you are right original stuff still working! Thanks everybody for all the help!

 

[tfe1870]

Same issues.. today... 79' Special.. toss'd the points... installed electronic ignition... made brackets to support the coils, other related bits.. soldered, heat shrunk connections.... also tossed the old rectifier and regulator.... installed the combined unit from Mike's... soldered the 3 white wires, red wire, blk wire.. heat shrunk... install in the accompanying white block.. then the other lead from the unit.. grn wire and brown wire.... NO blk wire.... on the stock system there is a blk wire.. I assumed it wasn't needed and wired through the new unit. Again.. grn and brown wire soldered, heat shrunk..insert in the new white block. There were no directions with this package.
The moment of truth.... key on....hit the starter...fired straight away.... checked with a time'n light...need'd a slight tweak .. then right on the mark.. runs great.... (we also went thru the carbs)
Checked the charge'n system.... battery voltage only.... no charge'n. We know the old system worked... even re-installed it to verify the system worked, 13.9-14.2 volts... did the " slap test ".. pass'd... Then we installed the new Mike's unit again.. and still no charge'n.

i wired the ground into the block with grn and brn wires....that didn't work either

 

[5twins]

Honestly, I don't know why people waste their money on those things. From what I read here, they're lucky to work like half the time. And $108 is just plain highway robbery. I see they also sell a stand alone rectifier for like $59. That's also highway robbery. A proven and reliable replacement rectifier that many of us use is the $10 unit from Windy Nation. Proven and reliable automotive regulators can be had for from $10 to $30. Spend the $60 or $70 you save on other more useful and needed items like new steering head bearings, or swingarm bushings, or a stainless brake line, or .... or .....or

 

[garbln]

I have to laugh about the Lucas comment, as the "new" PMA systems out there are closer to most old Lucas systems than anything else.