Minneapolis area mechanic or shop

[Mark Arnold]

I have an 82 Heritage that isn't charging. I've replaced the brushes and done the Clymer test on the stator/rotor and reg/rec. they appear to be OK but... I'd sure like to know the readings and/or me is correct before I ruin or buy new electronics.

I'd like to know if anyone out there recommends a shop or mechanic to help me out with the charging system. It's to nice of a bike to give away. Only 12K miles. Thanks.

 

[retiredgentleman]

Mark, you don't need a shop or a mechanic. There is loads of information and help on this site. You can easily learn to do your own repairs.

If you click on "Tech" at top of page you will find a wealth of knowledge on these bikes.
Here is one I found:

http://xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=Charging&action=display&thread=3461

I'm not familiar with the Clymer tests. When you had the brushes out, did you measure the resistance of the rotor from one slip ring to the other slip ring? Did you measure from either slip ring to the rotor frame?

 

[Classic]

I can meet up with you and we can find out what needs to be done. I have gone through this on my xs650 and it ended up needing a new rotor. It has been a few years since I did the troubleshooting and swap but it should come back to me.

 

[nj1639]

I can meet up with you and we can find out what needs to be done. I have gone through this on my xs650 and it ended up needing a new rotor. It has been a few years since I did the troubleshooting and swap but it should come back to me.

That's what I was looking for..classic, Classic!
IF there was anyone around my neck of the woods I'd lend a hand. That's an open invite.

 

[Mark Arnold]

Classic, thanks for the offer. I'm in Mounds View and have a decent shop at home where the bike is. I can haul it or if you don't mind coming over. I'd appreciate any scenario. I work 8-5 but can take off any time with a days notice or after work which ever works for you. You can reach me on my cell: 763-442-4558 Thanks again.

For the stator inspection at the plug and with the brushes still in (Clymer didn't say to pull them)
• the meter at Rx1 between the white leads get .4 ohms, which is in spec.
• meter at RK between white leads and stator ground get 0 (zero, or a closed circuit)
on all white leads to ground
Rotor: with brushes in:
• between green and brown leads get 2 ohms
• between green and brown, separately to stator ground get 0 (zero, or closed circuit)

Clymer says the readings should be infinity (or open circuit) on the 0 readings above correct?

 

[retiredgentleman]

For rotor resistance checks; You can't do that with the brushes in place. Remove both brushes. Touch your meter leads together and note the reading, which is typically 0.4 or 0.5 ohms. Use the lowest ohm scale and measure from one copper ring to the other copper ring. Take that reading and subtract the reading you previously made. Should be around 5 ohms.

Now use a very high resistance scale, and measure from either brass ring to the rotor frame. Should be infinity..........."I" on the meter.

For the Stator, your readings of 0.4 ohms from white to white pairs would be a good reading.

When reading from Stator whites to ground, you must unplug the yellow wire first. Use a high resistance scale, and any white wire to engine ground should be infinity.

 

[Classic]

remove the brushes and test resistance between the two contact points on rotor. Do it with more than one multimeter if possible.

Edit: guess i need to remember to hit the 'refresh' button.

 

[Mark Arnold]

OK let me get out there tomorrow and go through it again. Touching the probes I can zero out the reading on the meter, 0 (zero meaning a closed circuit) and infinity meaning an open circuit correct?

 

[Mark Arnold]

Pulled the brushes and get 2-5 ohms on the low scale depending on how hard I push on the slip rings with the probes. I get infinity on the high scale from slip rings to ground.

On the stator check, where's the yellow wire you're referring to located?

 

[Mark Arnold]

Classic,
Give me a call when you get a chance. 763-442-4558 Thanks, Mark

 

[ClOckwOrk]

just got mine fixed. you need to do the rotor tests but also make sure you do the positive brush test with the wire off or you'll run around in circles like i did. i'm located near taylor's falls and i can help if you can't figure it out.

 

[Mark Arnold]

ClOckwOrk
Not sure about the positive brush test... don't think I know how to do it. I'm willing to learn but it's frustrating not knowing if what I'm getting for readings is correct. If I can be shown once how to do it, it makes sense.
I'm also willing to bring the bike over if you have the time.

 

[Classic]

Mounds View is a bit too out of the way (especially since my XS is tucked in the corner).

The slip rings need to show 5 ohms. If it's 4 or lower it's time for a new rotor. A new one will sit at 5.3+.

 

[Mark Arnold]

Classic,
Mounds View is St. Paul (kinda) just off 35W and 694. I'm willing to bring the bike to you if you have the time.

 

[Classic]

I'm available today and tomorrow. My cell phone is goofed up at the moment and I only have data and text. I think you ought to take a scotch brite pad to your slip rings and test it again. If you're not getting close to 5 ohms the rotor is bad.