Usually, we sort of accomplish the same thing by jacking the rear up a bit. Fit slightly longer than stock replacement shocks. Stock ones are about 12 1/2" to 12 3/4". Fit something in the 13" - 13.5" range. Then a small amount of lowering in the front can be had, like I do. Stock fork springs are nice and give a smooth ride but are usually too soft (sacked out) by now. You can add 1" tube preload spacers to them to stiffen them back up or replace them. The forks work much better with a bit more than the stock amount of oil. And there's something called the "Minton Mods" you can do to the damper rods to improve the damping action.
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Miss November XS2 tribute
- Thread starter Raymond
- Start date
After I wrote reduce fork travel, it occurred to me that reducing the air gap with a bit more fork oil can help here.
My W800 has Hagon rear shocks, 20mm longer than stock. There is one slight annoyance - the bike leans further than it should on the side-stand. I know the solution is to lengthen the stand, and I will eventually fit a rubber foot to extend it slightly. In the meantime, I carry a small piece of wood which goes under the stand when we park. Conversely of course, the bike is a doddle to put on the centre stand.
The changes to the W's suspension - shocks, progressive fork springs and different oil - have made a huge difference.
Will look up the Minton Mods.
My W800 has Hagon rear shocks, 20mm longer than stock. There is one slight annoyance - the bike leans further than it should on the side-stand. I know the solution is to lengthen the stand, and I will eventually fit a rubber foot to extend it slightly. In the meantime, I carry a small piece of wood which goes under the stand when we park. Conversely of course, the bike is a doddle to put on the centre stand.
The changes to the W's suspension - shocks, progressive fork springs and different oil - have made a huge difference.
Will look up the Minton Mods.
Stock oil amount is just under 6 ounces. I use slightly more, 6.5 ounces if it's just an oil change (you never get it all out), or 7 ounces if the forks were torn down and are now totally dry inside. 10wt. is the stock recommendation and I've never found the need to go heavier. You want the forks to react and respond quickly, especially to the little bumps, and heavier oil would just slow that down. This is the main purpose and benefit of the Minton Mods, to improve the responsiveness of the forks.
Yes, the sidestand length will need modding with longer shocks. I do so by welding about 1/2" to 3/4" of plate to the bottom of the foot .....
Yes, the sidestand length will need modding with longer shocks. I do so by welding about 1/2" to 3/4" of plate to the bottom of the foot .....
Thank you 5t.
Meanwhile, neighbour's son and grandson very kindly came over and lifted the lump:
Amazing how just fitting the engine makes it look more like, uhm, a motorbike?
Meanwhile, neighbour's son and grandson very kindly came over and lifted the lump:
Amazing how just fitting the engine makes it look more like, uhm, a motorbike?
Last edited:
You get by with a little help from your friends.....
Last edited:
I love hard work..............i could watch it all day
Since engine back in, good progress today. The bike even got to be outside for the first time since the day it arrived:
That's really just a mock up. Still to fit oil feed pipe, exhaust system, fuel lines, battery, etcetera.
The low angle sun makes the metallic paint look faded on the tank but it's the same shade all over.
Mrs was unsure why I wanted orange but took the XS2 tribute thang on trust. Having now seen it with the black, yellow and red detailing she thinks it's really classy.
And for me that tank badge is pure 1970s Yamaha.
That's really just a mock up. Still to fit oil feed pipe, exhaust system, fuel lines, battery, etcetera.
The low angle sun makes the metallic paint look faded on the tank but it's the same shade all over.
Mrs was unsure why I wanted orange but took the XS2 tribute thang on trust. Having now seen it with the black, yellow and red detailing she thinks it's really classy.
And for me that tank badge is pure 1970s Yamaha.
Raymond: it looks FABULOUS!
...and see, you never mentioned that stupid f@cking ##@#$%@ timing chain at all!
Cheers,
Pete
...and see, you never mentioned that stupid f@cking ##@#$%@ timing chain at all!
Cheers,
Pete
I think she’s right, it does look classy! The orange & black really give it a little ‘attitude’ or something along those lines.
Is the tank badge a decal?
Daniel.
Thank you!
The tank badges are domed, I think the material is acrylic. See posting #63 earlier in this thread.
The orange and black, with yellow and red pinstripes, is an attempt at this:
Aiming at an XS2 tribute.
I love it l! I’m planning on doing the same with my ‘80 Special tank with custom R6 fuel cap in classic R6 blue and white livery.
Debating with the emblem though, wether to leave it out or have it painted on???
Daniel
Cheers, Daniel! Re the classic R6 livery, a photo would help?
Following this colour scheme but in the style of an XS2 tank much like yours. Toying the idea of having the ‘YAMAHA’ painted on the tank in a similar position & size as where the eblem traditionally sits on an XS2 tank.
Go for it!
Meanwhile, been in garage and put new copper washers in the oil feed pipe. Which then let me fit the head-steady and exhaust system.
Trial fit of fuel tank highlights that there is a lot of competition for space - cam-box breathers, clutch and throttle cables, main wiring harness, alternator cable, fuel pipes and fuel taps. Haven't quite seen how to get the fuel pipes onto the taps yet with all that in the way but have re-routed the clutch cable and might tie the throttle cable out of the way.
Well, thanks for the reminder, Pete. Think I prefer the problems I face right now to the ones I had back then . . .
Well, there it sits:
Complete. But on life support.
Went and fetched a can of fresh petrol.
Good News that with a few litres splashed into the tank, and both taps set to RES, there was no annoying Drip, Drip, Drip.
Less good was that attempts to actually start the engine were unsuccessful. A couple of times, there was a bit of a bark, but didn't catch. Taking a plug out confirmed that petrol is definitely getting through. And after a dozen or more attempts, I decided to put the battery on charge. The Battery Fighter still showing a red light after half an hour.
Tentative prods using the kick - I didn't really hope or try to get her started this way - confirmed that the engine turns over but feels 'tight'. My lack of confidence says it shouldn't feel tight - what have I done wrong? A more optimistic view would be that this is a sign of good compression with the new rings.
Could be that the timing is miles off? Could be that the carbs are out of whack?
But enough for today, I'll leave the charger on all night. Tomorrow is another day, as they say.
Whoever 'they' are.
Complete. But on life support.
Went and fetched a can of fresh petrol.
Good News that with a few litres splashed into the tank, and both taps set to RES, there was no annoying Drip, Drip, Drip.
Less good was that attempts to actually start the engine were unsuccessful. A couple of times, there was a bit of a bark, but didn't catch. Taking a plug out confirmed that petrol is definitely getting through. And after a dozen or more attempts, I decided to put the battery on charge. The Battery Fighter still showing a red light after half an hour.
Tentative prods using the kick - I didn't really hope or try to get her started this way - confirmed that the engine turns over but feels 'tight'. My lack of confidence says it shouldn't feel tight - what have I done wrong? A more optimistic view would be that this is a sign of good compression with the new rings.
Could be that the timing is miles off? Could be that the carbs are out of whack?
But enough for today, I'll leave the charger on all night. Tomorrow is another day, as they say.
Whoever 'they' are.
Looks stunning. Watching,and the expectations are high. Brum Brum.
5t, thank you for your suggestion. However, I had to rebuild the whole top end, so cam came out with all the rest. This entailed removing the Boyer Bransden stator plate and rotating magnets, so I had to do a static set up on rebuilt. Fitted the rotor magnet so that white spot was visible in viewing hole in the plate with engine in Full Advance position. My understanding - which is not good - is that this will be close enough to get her to run. With engine running, you then correct timing with a strobe.
Some thinking out loud points:
Perhaps, got things 180° wrong? No, I don't think that is possible with the Boyer kit. Dunno. On the Boyer instructions, it just says to have one of the magnets in the anticlockwise viewing hole, doesn't specify which.
Today, after fitting the head-steady, reconnected the sender wires from the stator plate to the control box - these are the same way round as when I dismantled, black/white to black/white and black/yellow to black/yellow. Not a lot of room for error there.
I don't think the new cam chain is to tight - I set the tensioner so that the plunger is just at the surface of the adjuster nut. Feels as if there is just a hint of play in the chain.
The starter motor sounds a bit lazy but I'm probably comparing it to newer bikes like my Kwak. And using it just a few times seems to take a lot out of the battery. But even a fairly slow spin speed should get the engine running?
Eeeyyyeahhh....Yamaha didn't exactly cover themselves with glory in designing the XS650 electric starter system did they?
The fact is that it DOES work quite well, if everything is right with the engine, but with a new re-build, tight everything and perhaps a slightly weak battery, you're not likely to get it to start. If the timing was out 180 deg.
I would expect that you would get a massive backfire somewhere.
I'd charge that battery and if that doesn't do it, just kick it till you can't anymore and see how it goes.....
It may be that we will have to have a chat about starter gear #4
sometime soon.....
Yes, I think I pointed out that the area under the fuel tank and behind the carbs is VERY crowded on these bikes making inclusion of a fuel filter quite a task. Here are a couple of tips:
Anyhow - it is not easy but you'll get there.
Cheers,
Pete
The fact is that it DOES work quite well, if everything is right with the engine, but with a new re-build, tight everything and perhaps a slightly weak battery, you're not likely to get it to start. If the timing was out 180 deg.
I would expect that you would get a massive backfire somewhere.
I'd charge that battery and if that doesn't do it, just kick it till you can't anymore and see how it goes.....
It may be that we will have to have a chat about starter gear #4
sometime soon.....Yes, I think I pointed out that the area under the fuel tank and behind the carbs is VERY crowded on these bikes making inclusion of a fuel filter quite a task. Here are a couple of tips:
- try one of the small filters shown below (available most places);
- feed the LH carb from the RH petcock and vice versa (makes the fuel hoses a little bit longer);
- you can get a 90 deg. elbow fitting which can be screwed into the petcock instead of the usual straight fitting and that may provide some flexibility in the installation (I have a couple of those fitting and am going to try that next on my XS750 cafe tank set-up);
- some folks have come out of the petcocks with a longer segment of hose then put a filter in-line partially behind the sidecover and then another long segment down to the carb inlet.
Anyhow - it is not easy but you'll get there.
Cheers,
Pete
Last edited:
Similar threads
