Muffler collar nut nuts joint Early Late, stuck Dang it!

Ahhh success. It feels sooo good. Are you thinking one of the little spanners that come with some shock sets? How tight does it need to get to seal those gaskets? With no more leverage than the little edges give I wouldn't think much? Starting to fit mine up today.
 
- - - still need to make a spanner for on the bike tightening - - -

Hi Gary,
a while back I proudly boasted about grinding and forging the jaw ends of two el-cheapo combination wrenches to make a pair of peg-wrenches to adjust my XS650s steering head ring nuts.
And was mocked and reviled for it, even after I explained that their 20mm & 22mm box ends were still useable.
I put the mockery down to them envying my engenuity & fabrication skills.
Although it seems that Drummond-McCall has shitloads of them, at reasonable prices, too.
But before you select your sacrificial donor-wrench or open McDrum's on-line catalog, see if the peg wrench that you use to adjust your rear shock's preload won't also fit your exhaust ring nut, eh?
 
Oh, yeah!!! Saved another one! Gotta remember that 'rag' trick.

... Are you thinking one of the little spanners that come with some shock sets? How tight does it need to get to seal those gaskets? With no more leverage than the little edges give I wouldn't think much?

The ER-series of collet chuck spanners can apply torques exceeding 100 ft-lbs.

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TwoManyXS1Bs, Ok 4 points of contact with deeper notches I can see it would apply more force. But that really isn't apples to apples when it comes to the thinner gripping area of the castle nuts is it?

And I still don't think the electrolysis did squat(see how rusty the threads still are). It was the better fitting pegs with the impact and oil that did the trick. But since Gary didn't separate the two we will never really know.
 
Hi Gary,
a while back I proudly boasted about grinding and forging the jaw ends of two el-cheapo combination wrenches to make a pair of peg-wrenches to adjust my XS650s steering head ring nuts.
And was mocked and reviled for it, even after I explained that their 20mm & 22mm box ends were still useable.
I put the mockery down to them envying my engenuity & fabrication skills.
Although it seems that Drummond-McCall has shitloads of them, at reasonable prices, too.


Too phunny Phred; I got the same reaction when I custom made a pair of fork spanners. I have used them on 5 or 6 bikes now. There's a thread somewhere.

View attachment 19359
 
I'm thinking it will have to be custom built, not much clearance around that nut. And yes about 1/2 the circle picking up at least 3 of the notches. heat and bend a piece of 3/8"x 3/4" bar around a large socket then grind in the notches? you just need to crush the soft gasket till it seals. WER is that gasket available?
 
Funny you should ask. The pair I bought a couple of years ago are the smaller early gaskets. PM your address and they are yours. They aren't available from Yamaha.
I bought some others off e-bay.
 
Thanks WER

mikes sells both sizes also.

Muffler Joint Gasket
Muffler Joint Gasket Photo Muffler Joint Gasket - Fits: Original Headpipes to Muffler Joint on
Standard Models - XS650B/C/D/E/F (1975-79), TX650A (74) models with
40mm. (1.57") headpipes. Gasket - 46mm. OD x 40mm. ID x 11mm. Long
OEM Ref. # 371-14714-03

OEM Reference #
• 371-14714-03

Part #17-4590 $5.50 USD Ea. ADD TO CART
Muffler Joint Gasket Yamaha XS1 XS2 TX650
Muffler Joint Gasket Yamaha XS1 XS2 TX650 Photo Fits into original muffler joint nut as used on
stock mufflers on XS1/XS1b/XS2 (1970-72) and
(1970-72) and 1973 TX650. Also fits to our
#07-0749/0750 systems. Approx 43mm od, 38mm id, 2.5mm thick.

OEM Reference #
• 256-14714-00

Part #07-4622 $5.50 USD Ea.
 
Old thread, but I'm facing the same issue of removing the muffler collar nuts on some old pipes. I ran across a special socket that is used for the "spider nut" on RZR 1000 UTV's am curious how close it would be size wise to interface with these collars and be able to impact them off. If anyone works at a shop, could you grab one of those clutch spider nuts and measure? Would be awesome if they are close enough to use with an impact to get these things off.
 

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Hi All:

This is an old thread which I have just discovered and I noted as a I read it that Gary's original difficulty has been solved. However, it occurs to me that with winter coming, there is an opportunity for people who have that style of nut on their mufflers to exploit the crummy weather and get things apart - and then re-assemble them with some anti-seize compound. Here's what I propose:
  1. Soak the muffler (nut end UP) in a drum/big mailing tube of snow and leave it outside so that it freezes overnight (hopefully);
  2. Grab a heat gun or even a torch and heat up just the nut (as much as possible);
  3. THEN get on it with your impact gun etc.
I'd guess that the big thermal mass of the muffler would stay cold enough to stay "small" for a while and that the heat directed at the nut would make it "big" so that the attack with the tools would succeed with less violence. Once you get it apart, hit the threads with a wire brush to clean them up and then re-assemble with high-temp anti-seize paste.

During the resurrection process, I got Lucille's nuts (that sounds sort of funny doesn't it?) off without too much difficulty and I put some paste on them. I plan to loosen them off periodically just to keep things moving. There are several Brit-bike guys in my vintage motorcycle group who have large diameter threaded exhaust pipe fittings on their cylinder heads which pose similar challenges - and they use all sorts of thermal and chemical tricks to get them loose.

BTW: I liked TwoMany's list of loosening methods given above:
  • chemicals,
  • heat and,
  • violence.
Sounds like the title of a Stanley Kubrick movie....;)
 
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