My 81' XS650 Chopper & Intro

I think I figured out the chain problem. I tightened it up a bit more and made double sure the axle was straight in the stays by measuring everything. I have about 1/2-1" up/down on it with the skateboard wheel tensioner. Seems to be working out good now.

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Finally got my tank back from the local welder/bike shop after waiting two weeks. Work was not done how I wanted though. I'm actually pretty dissatisfied. Just a reminder that I should just do everything myself. Instead of the two 1/8" petcocks that the guy talked me into I got the single HD 22mm petcock that hits the top of the carb when the tank is mounted. The filler was welded on about 1/2" to one side after I told him that my X needed to be centered. And the filler plate over the old filler wasn't really that nice. I'm sure I could have done this quality work myself and the reason I wanted a pro to do it. Live and learn. I was only out $65 for the work. That's about all it was worth anyway.
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Anyway, I got the tank mounted (had some issues with that too), new forks are installed (they are sweet) and went out for a short ride. My fender almost fell off, my clutch failed, and my fuel hose split in about 10 minutes.

Replaced the fuel hose, fixed my fender, put my old cable clutch back on, and went for another ride. Everything stayed together this time.

I also found out that shifting without the clutch works a lot better. Usually for downshifting I pull the clutch and try to downshift and I just can't get it in. This time I just downshifted without the clutch and it went right in easy as pie.

I started experimenting with shifting not using the clutch. It shifted great. Getting it into neutral while stopped is still not working, so I just have to remember to do it when I'm still going over 10mph.

I have a brand new clutch worm gear installed now so I'll fool with adjusting and see if I can dial it in. Practically everything is new now except the gears in the transmission and the clutch basket.

I'll post up some photos when I get the paint on it in the next few weeks.
 
Since putting the new forks on with the lowering kit in them I've been hitting the ground a lot. Can't wait to get a new set of wheels with a 21" up front.

I redid my kickstand since my bike was sitting straight up. I didn't want it to fall over. I just chopped it off and welded a new pad to the bottom of it.

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Lol, so today I'm letting it idle on the cement and I notice the bike is moving forward. I caught it just before it fell over. Stupid clutch problem. This winter I'm tearing the whole thing down for a total rebuilt. 277 hear I come. Going to put Mike's 5th gear in, and make sure everything in the transmission is tip top. Maybe that will fix it. (or I can just buy a hopped up motor from Hugh)

It's strange that I can shift without the clutch but I can't shift with the clutch. When I pull the clutch in, the shift lever just doesn't want to move. But when I don't pull the lever it goes right in no problem. Even finding neutral is super easy.

So far I'm two turns out on the clutch lever adjustment when cold (so I can kick start it), then two turns in when hot (so it's not pulling when in first with the clutch pulled).
 
diggin the kickstand foot. Ive been needing to modify mine for a while now too.

My bike has fallen over at least 6 times because of this!!!! :mad:
 
Went for a ride to Carson City today. My chain is still rubbing the tire. It's the top side that's doing it. I finally saw it. I'm not sure how to fix it. It happens when I'm doing around 55-60 and I give it more throttle, or if I'm going up a hill at that speed. So under power it will do it. I let off a bit and it stops.

I guess I could build a chain guide on top with some hard plastic guides.

I think the problem is that this frame is stretched way too long. I'm going to take 3" out at some point. But I'm too busy riding it right now.
 
So I moved my wheel to the right about 1/16 by making a new spacer. I think it had the stock spacer on the right, but who knows. Or the frame is tweaked. There are two washers on the left to push that side of the frame out so the chain will clear. I had to keep those in. I also made some spacers for the outside of the plates so the axle could move forward further. I was able to take out a full link from the chain. Move forward about an inch-1.5".

So far so good. So I used the chain tensioners to adjust each side of the axle. Before I measured and put the axle the same distance on both sides. This time I turned the wheel and when I got the best spin with no binding that's where I locked it down.

Much better now. I only took it out for a short run but it seems to be doing much better.

I also put my 17 sprocket back up front to see how that does. I had the 18. I think I'm going to put the 18 back on. Too much vibe at 65-70. I have enough problems with things shaking loose.

On the bad news side, my headlight connector is melting. Nothing but problems with this headlight. It usually just burns out. I'm not sure why it gets so hot. I'm just going to buy another headlight and sell this one. I've checked the voltage 100 times and I'm at 14.5vDC. I have 10amp fuses on everything.
 
Went out for a longer ride. Still having problems with the chain flapping. It's much better right now, but when I'm going up hill at around 65MPH it starts flapping and hitting the tire. I let off and it stops, but a moment after I speed up again it starts flapping again.

I think the solution is to chop the hardtail off and do another. The more I look at this one the more I hate it.

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Phil,
I have about the same amount of space between my chain and tire, except i am rinning the sprocket style tensioner. Maybe it is keeping the chain from walking on the bottom since that would be the slack side of the chain.

Good luck.
 
Mine is flapping on the top side. The bottom with the tensioner is fine. I have decided to add another wheel with a groove in it as a chain guide. I might not even need the one on the bottom. Originally the bike had the wheel on top. Now I know why.
 
I've tried to figure it out with the string method, but I'm not the best at getting things straight. I think it has something to do with alignment. When I moved the rear wheel 1/16 to the right it helped a lot.

At this point I'm working on just making an upper chain guide. I'm going to redo the frame later. I tried to make one with an old sprocket but I couldn't figure out how to get the bearing in it right. Now I'm working on putting another skateboard wheel on top.
 
I'm looking for a bolt on 21" spool wheel and tire. Anyone know where I can buy one? I have about $300 saved up so far.
 
I put another skateboard wheel on the top side of the chain and now it rides super smooth. No more bad vibrations (just the good ones). I had a great time riding today. It was nice.

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Rode to work today (50 miles each way) and the bike ran awesome with the new chain guide! Cut out all the nut rattling, steel breaking, light popping vibrations. Very enjoyable ride. So this is what the bike should ride like. Loving it.

Now I can get back to styling it.

PS, clutch still sucks, but I'm getting use to finding neutral before 15mph. Didn't stall it at all this morning. Turning the lever adjust out a long way when in town helps. Turn it in when on the highway keeps it from slipping at high speed.
 
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