legendary yamaha
IG:ne_caferacer_club
I noticed that the choke went off, so it’s not running only in choke, but it shouts down anywayHere is the link to the video,
I noticed that the choke went off, so it’s not running only in choke, but it shouts down anywayHere is the link to the video,
are you sure that you have fitted the metal shroud underneath the adjustable clamp band ?I think the clamp is too big for that, because I can still rotate it freely
Yes, 100% can get other close up pictures tonight.are you sure that you have fitted the metal shroud underneath the adjustable clamp band ?
Yes, 100% can get other close up pictures tonight.
I noticed that the choke went off, so it’s not running only in choke, but it shouts down anyway
Aren’t those tapered aftermarket mufflers supposed to back fire, also I have noticed the leak on the end of mufflers beacuse It was start smoking after a good warm up.looks like you have some back firing out of the exhaust. There are several possible causes , typically it could be excess fuel from a rich mixture igniting in the exhaust , or possibly an exhaust valve is incorrectly adjusted and is not fully seating or the seat or valve face is damaged .. It could possibly be an air leak on the exhaust manifold
Aren’t those tapered aftermarket mufflers supposed to back fire, .
The one clamp is physically bigger and wider, as for the timing I have no idea where to start and How to do it, I haven’t tuched the ignition.Your too loose clamp could be the wrong one. It might be the clamp intended for the rear of the carb where the airbox is attached. That one would be bigger. You could could compare the two clamps you have side by side and see if that loose right one is actually physically bigger than the other one (larger diameter).
I see you have points. You may just need to dial the timing in better and more exactly. These bikes like their timing set dead nuts. Or just a few degrees retarded is good too. Many of us run them that way.
Its really important to make only one change at a time and keep a note of the result of that change. Mark adjustment screws with some tipex or tape etc so that you can go back to an earlier setting if you need to . Whatever you do don't start messing with the electrics or ignition components before sorting the carbs and visa versa .
Did you bench sync the carbs when setting the initial idle screw setting before fitting the carbs ? if so
I would get your idle speed set correctly first then roughly set your idle mixture screws .
Make sure that both the choke valves are fully seated when the choke is turned off or you'll never get the idle right.
5Twins makes a good point about the clamp .He has forgotten more about these bikes than I am ever likely to know . It can get confusing with 2 people offering advice so I'll leave you in 5Twins capable hands good luck I'll be following your progress
What should I adjust if running rich?It seems to spitting fuel out the exhaust . Sounds and looks to be running rich,
Yes, Good ear ! TwoManyX’sIt's running on 1 cylinder, the right cylinder.
The left cylinder is dead, backfiring.
Well thanks for the good news, I have no clue how to test or get the cilinder running.It's running on 1 cylinder, the right cylinder.
The left cylinder is dead, backfiring.
Get the left cylinder running, and the idle will skyrocket.
Need a running closeup vid of the points plate...