Needle / Needle jet

LuisN

XS650 Enthusiast
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Ok, i need some help here b/c i dont want to buy everything and all of a sudden im F'ed at the end.

I have a set of 81 carbs, BS34's.

I am going to be redoing the carbs and hopefully everything is stock , BUT i am stomped on this 1 part since the needle is nowhere to be found..

IF i can only find this needle
https://www.mikesxs.net/product/48-0663.html

which i cannot find the stock 5HX12

should i use this

https://www.mikesxs.net/product/48-0662.html


or can i use stock

https://www.mikesxs.net/product/48-0660.html

and will i have any issues using either or?

i just dont want to modify any of the main jets or pilot since i am getting the stock sizes for everything.

thanks!
 
don't buy those needles from mikes. I hope its not too late.
Go to niche cycle.
If you still have the stock needle in yours, re-use it . unless there is a groove around it were it goes into the needle jet.
don't but the kits either. they are not carb specific, and often don't have the right fuel mix screw. do buy bowl gaskets there, though. but I baught all my parts from niche cycle.
Could but the Canadian neeedls and must buy the matching Canada needle jets from mikes, Ive used them, they are fine.
Even though your going stock, adjustable needles will help in the fine tuning of these very lean carbs from the factory.
Would even run better with a one up pilot. Don't buy the pilot from mikes either. they say they are real mikunis, and even have the square in a square, but they are not.
Read the carb guide?
 
From what your saying I assume your carbs are missing the needles. If so using the 5IX11 needle you should use the 336-Y0 with it. Mixing the Canadian needle with the standard jet will make the mix to rich.
Using these Canadian versions will work fine with your stock jets.
When installing the Canadian needles install them the same as the stock needles. The plastic washer holds the needle in place. I would start with it in the #3 slot. Test and adjust as needed.
That post you linked is a good one to follow.
Leo
 
My needles are fine just wanted to clean it all up. what i will do is then not get any needle and just stick with the stock stuff from his site.
 
so are you restoring this bike? original air boxes, and original exhaust?
The needle jet can wear out. since the needle is fine, just get a new needle jet. They are brass, so they softer, and hard to tell if wore out.
I don't meen to point you into modifying the carbs to the extent of a race bike(lol) But it will run a whole lot better with a bigger pilot. Adjustable needles will be just a little sweeter.
I miss john. Ihave a set of his needles, they work awesome.
Curious? search xsjohn needles. Hes no longer with us. rip
 
he passed away? =\ hate hearing things like that.RIP
yeah i saw some posts about it.. yes restoring but using pods most likely and pipes are going to be custom.
 
this is very important info.
get these.
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...ID=AvantLink|NA|55963_d3fe7c65&WT.MC_ID=54020
Don't get those pods. they don't work on 34's. It will run, but they disrupt the air flow.
Custom pipes. any bigger than 1 3/4 inch diameter is useless. stock is 1 1/2.
I thought you were going all stock as in stock internals of carbs. 34's can be made to run very well, but open air and open pipes will burn a hole in your pistons fast.
Im running the same foam pods, 1 1/2 straight pipes. 46 pilot, 140 mj. Your results may vary. my motor is 6th over.
this carb guide will be very important to you.
http://www.amckayltd.com/carbguide.pdf
running these muffs.
http://www.mikesxs.net/product/07-0010.html
they sound ok. they take the 'snap' out of the exhaust tone, but are pretty much just straight open.
 
Several of us on here have found that the type of pods that use the mesh elements like K&N use tends to cause air turbulence through the carbs. The shorter and more tapered the worse. The long straight ones may work better.
On carbs that use vacuum to open the slides need a smooth airflow through the carbs to get the strongest vacuum signal to lift the slides.
The straight foam pods such as Uni-filters work better. No turbulence, just smooth air.
On the exhaust the stock head pipes are about an inch inside diameter, they measure 1 1/2 out side. If you build or buy a set of headers built with 1 1/2 inch pipe the inside is about 1 3/8 inside. This is about optimal for engines up to around 800 cc. You can run larger pipes but your low to mid range power will be less. The larger pipe slows exhaust velocity which leads to poorer scavenging at low to mid rpms. Less leads to poorer cylinder fill on the intake stroke.
Adding the torque cones at the head or the exhaust optimizers at the muffler end helps restore this lost velocity, thus restoring the loss of power.
Leo
 
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