Newbie with a couple questions.

NoValidTitle

NoValidTitle

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First of, I'm James... Hi haha.

I recently discovered the amazingness of import bobbers. My roommate has a Shadow VLX600 I was searching about it and came across bobbers, then I discovered the XS650 community and here I am now.

So I'm looking into picking up an old XS650 to convert into a bobber. This will be my first custom bike, but I'm good with a wrench so I'm not worried about that. So yeah, my questions. Is it really difficult to just buy a frame already converted to rigid and just piece together the bike? By that I mean the process of getting it legal after it's done being built(I live in PA). I will likely go the route of just buying an old bike with a title so I can just hack it apart knowing I have a title for it. So what should one expect to pay for an XS650 that's in good shape? I know that's a question that probably has crazy ranges but I'm looking for a ballpark. Should I be expecting to pay $500 or $2000?

Thanks,
James
 
Welcome to the site.

Are you looking at cutting off the neck of the frame and sending somewhere to have a frame built or cutting off the rear of the bike and making a hardtail for it? I don't know how much they are going for in PA so someone else will have to comment on that as well as the titling methods.
 
When you say old what to you mean? The early 70's are harder to find and going to cost more if they are in ok shape. Also if you get say a 79special then cutting it up won't really be a crime because they are still pretty plentiful.
 
I paid $700 for this runner with 15K on it. It was rode hard and put away wet, but solid. And yes, it was a 79 special. I'm sorry, but I don't know about Pa. title laws. In NH, I don't need a title on this because of its' age.
 

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Thanks for the feedback. I'm not looking for a particular year so a 79 special is fine by me, I'll take what I can get. Also I'm not looking to chop the neck off, just having the back end converted to rigid. I was thinking TC Bros hard tail, just gotta find someone in the area to weld it on.

*edit* Another question, is there any years to avoid? I came across an 82 that looks to be in decent shape I'll have to give it a good looking at next time I drive that way but also have no clue what I should offer haha.
 
Last edited:
NoValidTitle said:
Another question, is there any years to avoid?
Click to expand...

- not really, there are 3 main frame types...pre 74...standard...soft chopper...if youre going to chop this is more or less immaterial...then there are with and without e-start, early and later cam chain tensioners, 3 different types of clutch, spoked and mag wheels, wheel sizes, spoke numbers, points and electronic ignition, slight differences in compression ratios, drum and disc brakes both front and rear, seat profiles and side-cover shapes etc
- all have their advantages and disadvantages, there are systemic problems thru all models such as swingarm bushes, sump oil filter, steering head bearings, rear suspension...but really nothing too major
- the early models are becoming more collectible after a fashion and the later soft chopper style is commonly chopped
- really its up to you and what you affordably find
- build for you and enjoy...
 
Complete titled running bikes are going for about 700 to 1500 dollars. Maybe less if it is a rust bucket or "needs carb cleaning". I have 3 NON-titled complete XS650s in pretty good "could run" shape and paid 100 to 200 each for them. those were looked long and hard off season prices.
 
James, go online to the Pa. DVM & check what is required from them regarding a title. Here in Ct., if it is a '80 or older with a previous Ct. registration, no title is needed. Most state's have adopted a title requirement if the VIN is of the 17 digit type. All vehicle's for the '81 and newer have the 17 digit VIN.
 
Sweet, thanks for all of that info. I will look into that VIN thing you mentioned Gordon. I think that covers most of my questions for now.

Oh one more thing... how tricky are these things to kick start? haha I've been spoiled with electric start. I'm a lightweight at 5'10" and only about 115lbs so I'm curious if I'll have trouble haha.
 
I started riding before an electric leg was common and trust me while it can be done it often isn't much fun. There is a reason old time riders gimp on their right leg. The old Amal carbs with "ticklers" (no not that kind of tickler) made the job a lot easier. When in good fettle my brit bikes were one or two kick starters all the time. I have messed with using the kick starter on an XS and when it wouldn't light the fire the electric prod would often start her singing.
 
NoValidTitle said:
Sweet, thanks for all of that info. I will look into that VIN thing you mentioned Gordon. I think that covers most of my questions for now.

Oh one more thing... how tricky are these things to kick start? haha I've been spoiled with electric start. I'm a lightweight at 5'10" and only about 115lbs so I'm curious if I'll have trouble haha.
Click to expand...

Mine starts first kick, but I have PMA conversion, pamco and high output coil. So it really depends on how much you want to change it. 5'10 115?!?! Windy days bother you?! Whenever I am down to 4% bmi I weigh 195 (6' granted), but in the great words of Joe Dirt, " Duh-ang". That's Christian Bale size in the machinist...

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Haha yeah I get the comment about windy days all the time. I was actually walking into the mall last weekend and it was REALLLY frakin windy and I got blown back about 5 steps before I caught myself.

I'm doing some searching now and from what I found(so far, still reading though) it looks like after 1972 they put electric starts on all of the XSs. Is that right or am I reading misinformation. I assume the models after 72 have both kick and electric? That would be nice...
 
These engine's are relatively easy to kick, once you have the proper proceedure down,, That is to push down on the kickstart lever until strong resistance is felt. Then bring the lever back up to the top, push down until the resistance is felt, then a strong 'kick' all the way to the bottom.Done right, it should have fired. Do not forget to A: turn on the key, B: the choke if cold, C:the 'kill' switch on the handle bar, and D: the fuel petcock.Most of us more experienced guy's( Re, older) use the electric leg.
 
Kicking my 79 got easier for me once I'd turned the engine through a few times by hand (well, by wrench) via the big nut under left sidecover during valve adjustment. Just gave me an idea what the leg needs to be able to do and I realized it should be no prob if the bike is tuned and healthy.
The other thing I realized is it can go ahead and start even on a fairly weak/slow kick. I was amazed to realize that.
 
650's are easy kickers, since only one cylinder is on compression stroke you're really kicking a 325cc but the weak point of the system is the alternator it need voltage to start charging and it will rob it from the coil(s) if the battery isn't doing it's job (fully charged and able to supply the needed amps and volts)
 
- you mean XS-J..heritage, double spoke wheels, cdi ... and XS-SJ heritage, cast alloy wheels, cdi
- XJ is completely different
 

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