Sdadyo
XS650 Enthusiast
Is there a thread that shows how to install a VR115 on an XS?
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No juice to the plugs
- Thread starter Sdadyo
- Start date
Many.
Do a forum search on "VR115", posted by member "5twins"...
Do a forum search on "VR115", posted by member "5twins"...
Sdadyo
XS650 Enthusiast
Im guessing the screw on top is the adjustment?
Attachments
Yes, but there's more.
Have a look at post #53:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/giddy-71-within-my-grasp.40322/page-3#post-405523
That last pic in post #53 shows the regulator guts. Adjust screw #10 to get what you want, will probably take a couple tries. I have mine set for 14.2v. All those boilover batteries I serviced in the '70s had charging systems that were in the aggressive 14.5-15v area, and non-adjustable. Ever since then, I've checked charging systems for overvoltage.
That whole thread may be of interest...
Have a look at post #53:
http://www.xs650.com/threads/giddy-71-within-my-grasp.40322/page-3#post-405523
That last pic in post #53 shows the regulator guts. Adjust screw #10 to get what you want, will probably take a couple tries. I have mine set for 14.2v. All those boilover batteries I serviced in the '70s had charging systems that were in the aggressive 14.5-15v area, and non-adjustable. Ever since then, I've checked charging systems for overvoltage.
That whole thread may be of interest...
Check the two gaps in the regulator first before adjusting. If they're off, sometimes just resetting them correctly will put the charging output back where it needs to be. If it doesn't, then move on to that adjusting screw.
I have not checked the status of the VR115 ( or the like )
but as I recall
It is not expensive a cost of a Hamburger meal or two
It is tested and is a working solution
It plugs in as an office lamp with a connector ( or there are others that does )
If nothing else it can be Zip Tied somewhere.
That is a simple rigid cheap tested solution if the above checks out ..
I am the person that uses parts as long as Possible and repair :But in this case I don't think it is worth it
$ 10 -- $ 30 dollars regulator
If that stock regulator is malfunctioning and the fault finding is difficult to do --- it can get expensive.
Again my View is that at non stock later Electronic Ignition are best protected by a more modern electronic regulator
Sure there are other solutions Bosch can be used but then there is soldering + pin identifying and so on.
And they are not handed out for free at the street corner either
Should point out that this does solve the bigger problem of the rectifier diodes failing which in my experience fail after years of voltage spikes, heat and vibration. The 650 was one of the first bikes to have silicon diode rectifiers and I have had to replace the early rectifiers on several types of bikes.
Sdadyo
XS650 Enthusiast
Is the gap setting in the manual? I am at work and don't have it in front of me? (should be working right now)
Well yes, in the factory shop manual anyway. Not sure about the aftermarket manuals. But, here's the pertinent info from the factory manual that I "tweaked" with more info .....
If you can adjust your old regulator for proper output then you probably don't need to replace it right away. The reason I eventually replaced mine is because once I installed a voltmeter, I discovered the output was very erratic. At up around 4K, where the output should have been maxed out, it would often drop way low momentarily. My best guess is the bike's vibrations were messing with the points and their gaps. I figured these constantly changing power output requests had to be stressing the rotor and stator more, making them work harder, than a steady power output request from the regulator would. The VR-115 produces a nice steady voltage output that doesn't bounce around all the time.
If you can adjust your old regulator for proper output then you probably don't need to replace it right away. The reason I eventually replaced mine is because once I installed a voltmeter, I discovered the output was very erratic. At up around 4K, where the output should have been maxed out, it would often drop way low momentarily. My best guess is the bike's vibrations were messing with the points and their gaps. I figured these constantly changing power output requests had to be stressing the rotor and stator more, making them work harder, than a steady power output request from the regulator would. The VR-115 produces a nice steady voltage output that doesn't bounce around all the time.
Sdadyo
XS650 Enthusiast
ok guys,
do I need to build a rectifier on my 1977 XS or can I just wire the vr115 in and be golden?
do I need to build a rectifier on my 1977 XS or can I just wire the vr115 in and be golden?
Try the regulator first and see if it helps
The rectifier is a separate component on your model, mounted under the battery box. It's a rather old fashioned open air design that may still be functioning fine but many of us upgrade it as well. We use a more modern enclosed unit, many of us choosing this one from Windy Nation .....
https://www.windynation.com/Rectifier/35-Amp-3-Phase-Bridge-Rectifier/-/218?p=YzE9MjA=
You don't need to build the rectifier per say but will need to make up a mounting plate that can act as a heat sink (it gets hot in operation) and add wires and a plug so it will connect into your harness.
https://www.windynation.com/Rectifier/35-Amp-3-Phase-Bridge-Rectifier/-/218?p=YzE9MjA=
You don't need to build the rectifier per say but will need to make up a mounting plate that can act as a heat sink (it gets hot in operation) and add wires and a plug so it will connect into your harness.
Sdadyo
XS650 Enthusiast
ok, I installed the vr115 and the regulator worked! It was awesome!
then Tried to dial in the timing and found that the advancement was stuck.
I found that the right side locked open when I installed the xscharge electric ignition. I re installed the ignition and now the bike won't start again.
The plugs are getting spark and the kick start keeps bucking me hard.
WTF?
then Tried to dial in the timing and found that the advancement was stuck.
I found that the right side locked open when I installed the xscharge electric ignition. I re installed the ignition and now the bike won't start again.
The plugs are getting spark and the kick start keeps bucking me hard.
WTF?
You may have to remove the advance rod and clean the rod and the bushings in the head. Filkl the lube grooves in the bushings with a moly grease. A thin coat on the ends of the rod that ride in the bushings is ok topo. The rest of the rod doesn't touch anything but a thin coat of grease help p[revent it from getting rusty.
Up in te TECH section you will find links to things you should know. One is the how to to clean and lube the rod and test for proper action.
Leo
Up in te TECH section you will find links to things you should know. One is the how to to clean and lube the rod and test for proper action.
Leo
Sdadyo
XS650 Enthusiast
All right guys! I installed the Mikes XSCharge electronic ignition, replaced the regulator and the bike is running!
Thank you for all your input!
"Last" hang up. I tried to adjust the timing and the new ignition is turned all the way counter clockwise. It is still advancing way too early.(like a quarter inch).
Still runs but the kick start is beating the shit out of me. Not every time but enough to hurt.
How can I get more adjustment out of a XSCharge electronic ignition?
Or is there something else I am missing entirely?
Thank you for all your input!
"Last" hang up. I tried to adjust the timing and the new ignition is turned all the way counter clockwise. It is still advancing way too early.(like a quarter inch).
Still runs but the kick start is beating the shit out of me. Not every time but enough to hurt.
How can I get more adjustment out of a XSCharge electronic ignition?
Or is there something else I am missing entirely?
Are you using the e -advance ? Hard to keep up with what they are selling.
check the pin on the camshaft. It should point strait up or down at TDC..
check the pin on the camshaft. It should point strait up or down at TDC..
A few hints
b ) You don't have the Mechanical advance -- on Boyer Bransden there is a long thread inside the cam that the triggering magnets
sits on .That long thread can be rotated inside the cam shifting its position with the triggering magnets relative cam and engine crank position
on Boyer if you move that long thread and locks it in a different position the adjusting frame so to Speak Moves
Please refer to the installation instructions for the ignition
Check battery voltage before start up ... keys off ..So it is up to spec ( bike has not been running .Charged ? )
When it starts check charging voltage so it is within specs ... warm also . so we don't fry something again
The kick back is most likely to much advance ..since you mention a quarter inch off
Assuming that is checked with a strobe light on both cylinders I would guess ... if connections and installation
battery voltage " perfect "
a ) You have the mechanical advance that might need service XSLeo # 56 aboveWhen it starts check charging voltage so it is within specs ... warm also . so we don't fry something again
The kick back is most likely to much advance ..since you mention a quarter inch off
Assuming that is checked with a strobe light on both cylinders I would guess ... if connections and installation
battery voltage " perfect "
b ) You don't have the Mechanical advance -- on Boyer Bransden there is a long thread inside the cam that the triggering magnets
sits on .That long thread can be rotated inside the cam shifting its position with the triggering magnets relative cam and engine crank position
on Boyer if you move that long thread and locks it in a different position the adjusting frame so to Speak Moves
Please refer to the installation instructions for the ignition
