This is getting frustrating. After installing the e advancer. I now have no spark. Power to coil initially is 12.4 volts on red and green wire. After first kick, coil voltage is 1.28. Battery still reads 12.4. What's going on?!
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No spark after electrical advancer install
- Thread starter Kathos
- Start date
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
Kathos,
Some clarity please.
In your first post: "coil voltage is 1.28" On which coil wire? Red or green?
On second post: "Red wire at PAMCO is 12.4 Where is the red wire getting its power from? It should be the same as the red / white wire on the coil, from the kill switch.
Some clarity please.
In your first post: "coil voltage is 1.28" On which coil wire? Red or green?
On second post: "Red wire at PAMCO is 12.4 Where is the red wire getting its power from? It should be the same as the red / white wire on the coil, from the kill switch.
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
Kathos,
Well, that's the problem. The red, green and black wires on the sensor side of the E-Advancer are all supposed to go only to the sensor. That's why it is labeled sensor. The + 12 from the kill switch goes to the red wire on the coil side of the E-Advancer. There is a resistor in the E-Advancer between the red wire on the coil side to the red wire on the sensor side, so that is why you are seeing a drop.
Here is a copy of the installation instructions from the web site www.yamahaxs650.com
1. Connect the red, green and black wires from the sensor plate to the red, green and black wires from the E-Advancer wires pointed to by the arrow on the right side of the E-Advancer box.
2. Connect the red, green and black wires from the left side of the E-Advancer box to the coil, battery and ground with the red wire going to the switched battery terminal of the coil, the green wire going to the other coil terminal and the black wire going to a suitable frame ground.
Well, that's the problem. The red, green and black wires on the sensor side of the E-Advancer are all supposed to go only to the sensor. That's why it is labeled sensor. The + 12 from the kill switch goes to the red wire on the coil side of the E-Advancer. There is a resistor in the E-Advancer between the red wire on the coil side to the red wire on the sensor side, so that is why you are seeing a drop.
Here is a copy of the installation instructions from the web site www.yamahaxs650.com
1. Connect the red, green and black wires from the sensor plate to the red, green and black wires from the E-Advancer wires pointed to by the arrow on the right side of the E-Advancer box.
2. Connect the red, green and black wires from the left side of the E-Advancer box to the coil, battery and ground with the red wire going to the switched battery terminal of the coil, the green wire going to the other coil terminal and the black wire going to a suitable frame ground.
This turned out to be the issue. Now I have the bike so it fires but it runs super rough. I have the vm34 set at base tuning and the pamco centered but I can't get the thing to idle to dial in the timing . If I do get it running, i need to stay slightly on the throttle. If I give it any more or any less it stalls. Also when it is running. It's very poppy from the right exhaust. More so then before.
I'm having trouble finding if its a timing issue or fuel issue. I noticed that one time my right carb blew off so maybe it's firing too early?
I pulled the plugs and I noticed the the left side was drenched in fuel while the right side was dry.
One time when I kicked, fuel spit out of the left carb.
I'm having trouble finding if its a timing issue or fuel issue. I noticed that one time my right carb blew off so maybe it's firing too early?
I pulled the plugs and I noticed the the left side was drenched in fuel while the right side was dry.
One time when I kicked, fuel spit out of the left carb.
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pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
Kathos,
Well, instead of setting the timing at idle, rev it up to 3,200 RPM and set the timing at full advance. Also, since the PAMCO fires both sides at the same time, if you have a problem on one side, it basically has to be carbs.
Well, instead of setting the timing at idle, rev it up to 3,200 RPM and set the timing at full advance. Also, since the PAMCO fires both sides at the same time, if you have a problem on one side, it basically has to be carbs.
Pete. It's starting to get close. It seems like I am unable to turn the pamco advanced enough. I have the plate all the way to the right. The pamco board is starting to hit the lower plate screw.
It seems like the exhaust difference is less noticeable now. For some reason I need to be slightly on the throttle to keep it going. I can increase throttle but if I less off it stalls. Should I increase the base idle set screw?
It seems like the exhaust difference is less noticeable now. For some reason I need to be slightly on the throttle to keep it going. I can increase throttle but if I less off it stalls. Should I increase the base idle set screw?
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
Kathos,
Are you using a timing light?
Are you using a timing light?
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
Kathos,
Did you check to be sure all three of the locating pins are in place?
Did you check to be sure all three of the locating pins are in place?
Yes. They are all in the correct place. My advancer adaptor had both pins almost lined up. Slightly off. I have it running now. Turned up the idle. The base timing is at the tic to the right of the f and left of t. Full advance is slightly under
The full advance mark. I can't adjust the pamco and more advance though. Yes I'm using a timing light.
The full advance mark. I can't adjust the pamco and more advance though. Yes I'm using a timing light.
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
Kathos,
It's very important that the idle speed be at or below 1200 RPM when setting the idle timing. If the idle speed is higher than 1200 RPM, the advancer will already be in the advance curve using some of the available advance, leaving less for full advance so full advance will come up short and that is why you have run out of adjustment.
So, get the carbs sorted out so you can set the idle at 1,000 RPM reliably when you set the idle timing.
It's very important that the idle speed be at or below 1200 RPM when setting the idle timing. If the idle speed is higher than 1200 RPM, the advancer will already be in the advance curve using some of the available advance, leaving less for full advance so full advance will come up short and that is why you have run out of adjustment.
So, get the carbs sorted out so you can set the idle at 1,000 RPM reliably when you set the idle timing.
Pete, you know better then I do, but Im not sure it matters what the base timing is set from.
If I'm at full advance, and its still not at the full advance mark, then I need to adjust the pamco more advanced.
But I have no more room to advance the plate.
Its just a smige under the full advance mark but if I could advance it more, I would. I never like using the full adjustability of the part. Makes me think something else is off.
(If my base timing was off, and it was already into the curve, then I would find that I need to advance it more at the correct idle, and I would still come to the same conclusion that I cant advance it any further)
If my thought's are wrong, please correct me.
If I'm at full advance, and its still not at the full advance mark, then I need to adjust the pamco more advanced.
But I have no more room to advance the plate.
Its just a smige under the full advance mark but if I could advance it more, I would. I never like using the full adjustability of the part. Makes me think something else is off.
(If my base timing was off, and it was already into the curve, then I would find that I need to advance it more at the correct idle, and I would still come to the same conclusion that I cant advance it any further)
If my thought's are wrong, please correct me.
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
In your previous post, I understood you to say that you turned up the idle, meaning that it is idling faster than 1200 RPM. If it is idling at, say, 1300 RPM then some of the available advance has come into play, but you would have adjusted (retarded) the timing to the timing mark, so that advance is not available to reach full advance.
So, rather than go back and forth on the issue, just humor me and try setting the idle advance at 1,000 RPM which would ensure that you are not using any advance at idle, leaving all of the available advance to reach full advance at 3200 RPM.
So, rather than go back and forth on the issue, just humor me and try setting the idle advance at 1,000 RPM which would ensure that you are not using any advance at idle, leaving all of the available advance to reach full advance at 3200 RPM.
Okay, I didnt want to admit this, but my tach is broken and I wanted to upgrade my gauges at the end of the season. Id have no problem doing it the right way if I had my tach. Thats why mentally Im trying to convince myself I can use the full timing mark.
Now I feel exposed.
(ps. By turning up the idle, I didnt mean from 1200. I meant in general. I didnt have the idle rpm set yet after rebuilding my carbs)
Now I feel exposed.
(ps. By turning up the idle, I didnt mean from 1200. I meant in general. I didnt have the idle rpm set yet after rebuilding my carbs)
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
Kathos,
OK. My turn. Your were correct, I just didn't read it right. You should be able to reach full advance regardless of where your base timing is. You also said that the idle timing was just a smidge retarded, so the advance span is there, you just can't get it to hit either the idle or full advance marks. It is slightly retarded at both with the plate at full advance. Correct?
If so, then we have to look at something mechanical. Loose timing chain or worn timing chain will do it because the stretch in the chain means that the cam will be late arriving necesitating a advance adjustment.
One other possibility is the third locating pin which is supposed to engage the groove in the advancer cap.
OK. My turn. Your were correct, I just didn't read it right. You should be able to reach full advance regardless of where your base timing is. You also said that the idle timing was just a smidge retarded, so the advance span is there, you just can't get it to hit either the idle or full advance marks. It is slightly retarded at both with the plate at full advance. Correct?
If so, then we have to look at something mechanical. Loose timing chain or worn timing chain will do it because the stretch in the chain means that the cam will be late arriving necesitating a advance adjustment.
One other possibility is the third locating pin which is supposed to engage the groove in the advancer cap.
pamcopete
Ride.Enjoy.Life is Simple
Kathos,
Additional comments. You can use a florescent bulb in a dark room to "see" any RPM that is divisible by 60 by shining it on the rotating crank or rotor.
You can also try holding the PAMCO rotor in the advanced position (ccw) as you tighten the nuts on the end of the advance rod to squeeze whatever play there is in the advance direction.
Additional comments. You can use a florescent bulb in a dark room to "see" any RPM that is divisible by 60 by shining it on the rotating crank or rotor.
You can also try holding the PAMCO rotor in the advanced position (ccw) as you tighten the nuts on the end of the advance rod to squeeze whatever play there is in the advance direction.
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ccline746pk
XS650 Enthusiast
Kathos, please pardon this momentary hijack of your thread.
Pete, I had a couple questions concerning the Pamco unit. I sent you a PM last week.
Do you prefer questions be posed on the forum in a thread instead?
Pete, I had a couple questions concerning the Pamco unit. I sent you a PM last week.
Do you prefer questions be posed on the forum in a thread instead?
Pete you hit the nail on the head. The adaptor had enough movement that when I pushed the pamco rotor ccw, it advanced it enough that I was able to back the pamco back to the center of the slot. A+ work.
Told you I didn't need base idle
Told you I didn't need base idle
