No Spark! Haven't ridden all summer...please help:)

[mjamusic]

So here's where I am at and I'm at a total loss...a little background I also just did a top end rebuild and I have absolutely no spark and I've done all the testing I can think of and all parts are brand new.

1. I have voltage from the power side of the ignition switch on both red/white wires, and the blue/white (key on, kill on)

2. Switch side I also have full voltage on blue/white, brown, and red/white

3. I have full voltage on the red wire from the pamco, and the red/white going to the coil.

4. Accel coil has 3.5 ohm

5. 11.5 ohm on 20K scale at plug terminals on coil (Pete calls for 15-20,000)

6. 24.8 ohm on 200k scale between plug boots

I'm trying to be as logical about this as possible, but I'm at a loss, haven't ridden all summer, and spent lots of time and $ building the bike. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

 

[XSLeo]

Well just to clarify things the red wire doesn't come from the Pamco, that's power to the Pamco.
Power to the coil on the red/white.
Black to a good ground. Any paint or powder coat stop electric flow. Clean bare metal to clean bare metal.
The green wire is the ground for the coil. The Pamco turns the ground on/off for the coil. This is what causes the spark.
Be sure all your connections are good. If you crimp on connectors be sure they have a good crimp. A loose crimp just don't work.
When you say full voltage I assume you mean the voltages at your test points are the same as battery voltage. Voltage at the test points should be with in about .2 volts of battery voltage. Any less than that and the coil may not spark.
Recheck your voltages and tell us what the battery reads with the switches on a nd then tell us what the voltage is at each test point.
Leo

 

[mjamusic]

Battery 13.3

Ignition power side
Blue/white 12.9
Red/white 12.9
Red/white 12.9

Pamco red 12.9
Green at coil 12.9

Pamco green before e advancer 0
Pamco red before e advancer 9.2

Ignition switch side
Blue/white, brown, red/white 12.9

Red/white at coil 12.7

How does this look? Thanks Leo!

 

[XSLeo]

With 13.3 at the battery and 12.7 at the coil, 9.2 at the e-advance and 12.9 at the red of the Pamco , you might want to recheck your wiring. That much voltage drop means a bad connection some where.
As I said more than .2 drop is not a good sign. 13.3 - .2 = 13.1 So your test points at red at the e advancer and red/white at the coil should be 13.1 volts.
You list a bunch of odd wire colors. Your key switch if stock should have three wires, a red that come from the main fuse, a brown that goes out to power most of the bike and a blue/yellow that powers the tail light.
If you are using a stock key switch and stock engine stop switch power comes from the battery through the main fuse to the key switch, from the key out on the brown to the rest of the fuses to power the rest of the bike.
The brown also sends power to the reg/rec and hot brush at the stator.
The voltages at the green wire don't mean much. This green wire is the control wire that grounds the coil. The Pamco just turns the ground on/off, the same way points turn the ground on/off.
The sensor on the Pamco plate senses when the magnets in the rotor pass by. As one magnet passes the sensor it turns on the ground, this magnetizes the coil. The next magnet turns of the ground, thus let the magnetic field in the coil collapse, causing the coil to spark.
I assume you followed the install instructions, as in hook the sensor plate to the e-advancer on the wires marked sensor and the other wire marked coil to the coil.
If hooked up wrong I don't think it will work right.
Recheck your wiring.
Another thing you can do is to bypass all the switches and hook the e-advancer red wire and the hot side of the coil, where the red/white wire hooks on, straight to the battery positive. This will send full battery voltage to the coil and E-advancer.
If properly hooked up from e-advancer to sensor plate and coil you should get spark.
Leo

 

[retiredgentleman]

So here's where I am at and I'm at a total loss...a little background I also just did a top end rebuild and I have absolutely no spark and I've done all the testing I can think of and all parts are brand new.

1. I have voltage from the power side of the ignition switch on both red/white wires, and the blue/white (key on, kill on)

2. Switch side I also have full voltage on blue/white, brown, and red/white

3. I have full voltage on the red wire from the pamco, and the red/white going to the coil.

4. Accel coil has 3.5 ohm

5. 11.5 ohm on 20K scale at plug terminals on coil (Pete calls for 15-20,000)

6. 24.8 ohm on 200k scale between plug boots

I'm trying to be as logical about this as possible, but I'm at a loss, haven't ridden all summer, and spent lots of time and $ building the bike. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

If you mean 11.5 K ohms on the coil terminals, then that is OK. My Accel coil measures 10K ohms.

If you have resistor caps of about 6 k ohms, then 24.8 K ohms at the plug wires would seem to be OK also. I have resistance wires of 3.5 K ohms (no resistance caps) , which gives me a total of 17 k ohms from plug wire to plug wire.

 

[mjamusic]

I am definitely going to go back through my wiring and check connections...I do have some odd colors, as I built the harness from scratch and used what I had. Could someone suggest the proper wire gauge for wires from the battery through the key and ignition switch? I am using the the best bullet connectors I can find, but I have read yes and no for also soldering connections? What's the standard? Thanks all I feel like I'm getting closer!

 

[retiredgentleman]

I am definitely going to go back through my wiring and check connections...I do have some odd colors, as I built the harness from scratch and used what I had. Could someone suggest the proper wire gauge for wires from the battery through the key and ignition switch? I am using the the best bullet connectors I can find, but I have read yes and no for also soldering connections? What's the standard? Thanks all I feel like I'm getting closer!

From the battery to main fuse, to ignition switch and rectifier (rec/reg) to the ignition switch, I would use #14 gauge. From ignition load side to input of 3 fuses (if you have them) also use #14 gauge. Most other things can be #16 gauge. Some small load individual circuits can use #18 gauge.

Some people get away with crimping connections, but I don't use crimps. I prefer soldering bullet connectors, and then heat shrink insulation. Has been very reliable for me.