section8joe
XS650 Addict
I have an 83 Heritage special. I'm trying to wire it up using this diagram. I'm having trouble getting spark and I think I've done all the appropriate tests.
The bike is kick only with only a headlight and taillight. I wired everything up and I can't get spark to the plugs. I'm not sure if I'm testing for spark correctly. I'm kicking the bike with a plug out(still attached to the plug wires). The plug is pretty much touching the side cover screws and side of the cylinder. Is this the correct method?
XSLEO's advice from another thread.
I've done everything in the above quote and all my tests comeback ok.
Once again more advice from XSLEO
I tried this too and no spark. I also was using a test light and both sides of the ignition coil have power. All three wires going to the PICKUP COIL have no power when tested with a test light. Should these wires have power? Is there anything else to try? Is my TCI box shot? I know there are a few threads on here on repairing the TCI box but I don't want to jump into that without exploring other options.
I just thought of one other thing. I have the 7 pin TCi and the black wire with the white stripe is the wire that I think goes to the sidestand relay. I have the white with the black stripe going to the pickup coil. Is this correct?
Sorry this post is so long I just wanted to fully explain the situation.
The bike is kick only with only a headlight and taillight. I wired everything up and I can't get spark to the plugs. I'm not sure if I'm testing for spark correctly. I'm kicking the bike with a plug out(still attached to the plug wires). The plug is pretty much touching the side cover screws and side of the cylinder. Is this the correct method?
XSLEO's advice from another thread.
On your fuses, the one with a red wire on each side is the main fuse, 20 amp.
The one with red/white wires is the ignition fuse, 10 amp.
The one with red/yellow is for lights, 10 amp.
The one with brown wires is everything else. Use your meter check the battery voltage, When you check voltages at other places it should come very close to this voltage.
With the key on check the voltages at the fuses. The red/white wire is the one you need to check. If it has battery voltage fine, If not check the fuses, main and ignition and the key switch. The switch can have dirty contacts inside. Most can be taken apart and cleaned.
Once you have battery voltage at the fuse check the voltage at the red/white wire at the coil and the TCI box. They both should get a reading within .5 volts of battery voltage.
If not check the kill switch, dirty connections inside will prevent power passing through. If you have good voltage at the TCI box and coil check the grounds at the TCI box and coil. You need good grounds.
If everything checks out good and still no spark you need to check the coil for proper ohms. On the 81 the primary side, the red/white and the orange wires, With your meter set on it's lowest range, touch the probes together, this reading is just the probes and wires, you need to subtract this reading from your test reading to get the actual reading.
Now touch a probe to the red/white and one to the orange wire, If it reads 2.5 ohms + or - 10 % then that parts tests ok.
Now with your meter set to the 200k position touch one probe to each spark plug cap. This way you are testing both caps, wires and the coil. It should read 23k ohms, + or -10%.
Now down on the stator is the pick up for the TCI box. There is a connector for them by the connector for the stator. At this connector there will be three wires, one black/white, one white/red, one white/grey. They used different colors sometimes. Too check the ohms check from the wire that has black on it to each of the other wires. The reading should be about the same and some where in the 700 ohms range.
These are about all the checks you can do on the TCI system. If all these checks are in spec the TCI box is the problem.
There are several things you can try to fix the TCI box. Re soldering any cold solder joints. Re soldering all the joints. Replacing any parts the look burnt up. Usually the transistor and some diodes. If you look around you will find the threads that explain just how too do these fixes.
If fixing the TCI box fails, then you can spend money trying to get a good replacement from forum members or off ebay. These can get your bike running. Unless you get a NOS replacement in the $500 range you will get a 30 year old used part.
I've done everything in the above quote and all my tests comeback ok.
Once again more advice from XSLEO
Before you buy anything find out if what you have works. The TCI is a set and forget ignition.
I would hook up the TCI box, coil and pick up you have, leave the reg/rec out for now. Use a battery to power ignition. See if it runs with what you have.
Do this and see what happens. It won't cost you anything but a bit of time.
If it runs, then wire up the reg/rec and see if it charges. If you get it to run and charge you can ride it till you can save a few bucks and do some upgrades.
I tried this too and no spark. I also was using a test light and both sides of the ignition coil have power. All three wires going to the PICKUP COIL have no power when tested with a test light. Should these wires have power? Is there anything else to try? Is my TCI box shot? I know there are a few threads on here on repairing the TCI box but I don't want to jump into that without exploring other options.
I just thought of one other thing. I have the 7 pin TCi and the black wire with the white stripe is the wire that I think goes to the sidestand relay. I have the white with the black stripe going to the pickup coil. Is this correct?
Sorry this post is so long I just wanted to fully explain the situation.
Last edited: