Ordering New Friction Plates

[YL82]

To deal with clutch issues at a later time was exactly my earlier thought, so I agree with ya'll (southern term). I need to better characterize what is going on with shifting, finding neutral, etc. after I resolve other issues.

Yes, I certainly need to save $$ (going broke) when I can. I've shelled out a fair amount on parts, sweet tools, etc.

Yesterday, I beveled the sharp edges on the case at the clutch pushrod seal and countershaft seal locations. I need to order some Yamabond #4 (ThreeBond 1104) to apply to my new seals before I can pop em' in. MikesXS is out of stock currently. Is there a good alternative to YamaBond #4?

 

[ANLAF]

Did you say you were going to use seal on oil seals, YmaLovin? I just installed a couple today (to both housings where the ignition is). I put a little oil around the outside and tapped gently home with the appropriate sized socket hear so the seal drives home evenly.

In my opinion there is no need to use sealant on oil seals at all. No pools of oil here so far.

Anlaf

 

[5twins]

Most of us follow the seal replacement tips outlined here .....

http://www.650motorcycles.com/XSseals.html

Many of the seal holes in the cases are line bored which leaves a very sharp edge around the hole. This sharp edge can actually shave part of the seal O.D. off as you push it in. Beveling that hole edge slightly is the solution. Oiling the seal O.D. to ease installation is the time honored method. Using a sealer of some sort does that too along with the added benefit of helping seal the O.D. into the case.

These tips help and really work. One more I'll add is to buff the area of the shaft where the seal lip is going to ride with a Scotchbrite pad. This won't remove any material from the shaft but will clean it well and smooth out any ridges a previous seal lip may have left behind. It leaves you with a nice smooth, clean surface for the new seal lip to act upon. Since I've been using all these tips (especially the Scotchbrite pad one), I've had a near 100% success rate replacing seals.

 

[ANLAF]

Thanks, 5twins, I've made a note of that for when I change the seals in the cases.

Anlaf

 

[YL82]

What 5twins said...

5twins, for clarification, where are you specifically referring to in your 2nd paragraph in your 2:56 PM post? Are you referring to the countershaft on left side? Seal lip: is this the inner circumference of the seal ?

 

[5twins]

About the only seal hole I've run across on these that is already beveled for you is the kickstarter one. All the rest will require a little "doctoring". Oh wait, the tach seal one is beveled too.

Yes, the seal lip is the I.D., the part that does the sealing and rides on the shaft. Believe it or not, that little rubber lip can wear grooves in a steel shaft.

 

[YL82]

Looks like ThreeBond has replaced 1104 and 1194 with Threebond 1184. They changed formulation somewhat to replace some toxic constituents (with other toxic ingredients). This may be old news. I imagine that many vendors still have stock of 1104 and 1194 to sell.

 

[YL82]

I'm with 5twins on that. I put new springs in - and would have done so even if the friction plates in mine didn't need replacing.

Anlaf

Hi, Anlaf.

To clarify your comment (and 5twins') on the springs, are you referring to replacing the 2 small springs only? Any need in your view to replace larger torsion spring?

 

[ANLAF]

I meant the six clutch springs (there is no way of knowing how long they had been in there, and can lose their integrity, so I replaced), although I just happened to have the two small springs to swap round on the gear selector mechanism, those springs were fine (I did not touch the spring at the adjustment screw on the shifter-shaft - pic 3).

Anlaf

 

[YL82]

Duh. I wasn't thinking about those 6 clutch springs for some reason. I've already got a set of new ones! Thanks.

 

[SolidLex]

I hear ya. I'll be purchasing MikesXS clutch kit next week. And going broke until pay day. Heheheh

To deal with clutch issues at a later time was exactly my earlier thought, so I agree with ya'll (southern term). I need to better characterize what is going on with shifting, finding neutral, etc. after I resolve other issues.

Yes, I certainly need to save $$ (going broke) when I can. I've shelled out a fair amount on parts, sweet tools, etc.

Yesterday, I beveled the sharp edges on the case at the clutch pushrod seal and countershaft seal locations. I need to order some Yamabond #4 (ThreeBond 1104) to apply to my new seals before I can pop em' in. MikesXS is out of stock currently. Is there a good alternative to YamaBond #4?

 

[XSLeo]

Try the local bike shops. Most use the same stuff just have their name on the tube, Yamabond, Hondabond.
Leo