Pamco blown!!!!!!!

stuter6912,

Here is a test procedure for the coil and PAMCO.


Testing the coil:

1. Using the lowest scale on the meter, measure the resistance between the primary terminals with the wires removed. Should read from 2.5 to 4.5 Ohms.
2. Using the highest scale on the meter, measure between one of the primary terminals and the center core of the coil. Should be infinite resistance. (open)
3. Measure between one of the primary terminals and one of the plug wire terminals. Should be infinite resistance. (open circuit)
4. Measure between one of the plug wire terminals and the core of the coil. Should be infinite resistance (open circuit)
5. Measure from one plug terminal to the other. Should be 15,000 to 20,000 Ohms

Testing the PAMCO

1. Use a voltmeter and check for battery voltage on each of the red/white wires with the key and kill switch are turned on.
2. The dual output coil has to have both spark plug wires connected to a spark plug at all times.
3. To test for spark, connect one of the spark plug wires to a spark plug that is grounded to the engine.

To test for spark without having to turn the engine over, do this procedure:
1. Remove the PAMCO rotor.
2. Remove the locating pin in the advance rod.
3. Reinstall the rotor, but without the pin.
4. Replace the nut holding the rotor on loosely. This will allow you to spin the rotor to produce a spark without having to turn the engine over.
5. Connect one of the spark plug wires to a spark plug that is grounded to the engine, but not installed in the engine.
6. Make sure that the other spark plug wire is connected to a spark plug in the engine.
7. Turn on the ignition switch and the kill switch.
8. Spin the rotor while looking at the gap in the spark plug for a spark.
9. Turn off the kill switch and the ignition switch.
 
pamcopete said:
stuter6912,

Here is a test procedure for the coil and PAMCO.


Testing the coil:

1. Using the lowest scale on the meter, measure the resistance between the primary terminals with the wires removed. Should read from 2.5 to 4.5 Ohms.
2. Using the highest scale on the meter, measure between one of the primary terminals and the center core of the coil. Should be infinite resistance. (open)
3. Measure between one of the primary terminals and one of the plug wire terminals. Should be infinite resistance. (open circuit)
4. Measure between one of the plug wire terminals and the core of the coil. Should be infinite resistance (open circuit)
5. Measure from one plug terminal to the other. Should be 15,000 to 20,000 Ohms

Testing the PAMCO

1. Use a voltmeter and check for battery voltage on each of the red/white wires with the key and kill switch are turned on.
2. The dual output coil has to have both spark plug wires connected to a spark plug at all times.
3. To test for spark, connect one of the spark plug wires to a spark plug that is grounded to the engine.

To test for spark without having to turn the engine over, do this procedure:
1. Remove the PAMCO rotor.
2. Remove the locating pin in the advance rod.
3. Reinstall the rotor, but without the pin.
4. Replace the nut holding the rotor on loosely. This will allow you to spin the rotor to produce a spark without having to turn the engine over.
5. Connect one of the spark plug wires to a spark plug that is grounded to the engine, but not installed in the engine.
6. Make sure that the other spark plug wire is connected to a spark plug in the engine.
7. Turn on the ignition switch and the kill switch.
8. Spin the rotor while looking at the gap in the spark plug for a spark.
9. Turn off the kill switch and the ignition switch.
Click to expand...

So if everything checks except there is no spark, is it safe to assume the Pamco "board" needs replaced? I have a nieghbor with a Pamco on his XS with no spark and everything checks.
 
If you know how to weld, you should understand the dangers of welding around electronics. Im not real sure how you cannot figure out how it could damage the PAMCO considering your working with 100+ amps.
Assuming you did intact damage any of the electronics, next time you weld, keep you ground clamp as close to the work area as possible.
 
I've been around bikes since I was 3. Started racing MX at 4 this is the only hobby i know. I haven't had much experience in electronics so sorry. The ground clamp was about 1in away from weld zone. I will check spark when I get back home later. But I'm almost positive there is none! Bike ran great before and now nothing so Ide say there is NO spark. Full gas tank. Like I said I ddont want any negative feedbaack, everyone on here is super helpfully Ind I REALLY appreatiate it!!!!!
 
I really hope you get your bike figured out. There's a lot of folks that could benefit from your experience/issues. I know you will recover from this. Please don't forget to post your findings.
And remember:
The only easy day was yesterday!
 
Listen to Pamcopete, he designed and builds the Pamco ignition system.Follow what he says as he says it. He will get you running.
Leo
 
Dude first of all listen to Pete and check what he said. When you weld on your bike next time just disconnect your electronic and you will be safe. Pamco Boyer and even the stock black box can be zapped by welding because you are ground welder to frame. Sit down clear your head and just check threw your wire. Go to the local auto parts and get a spark plug tester that goes between the plug and wire so you don't burn up your stuff by trying to hold your plug to frame. Burned up my first electronics doing that. Even if you have voltage to it there may not be any coming out. Holding both plugs in your hand to see if you got spark is may shut your electronic down so don't be dumb.
Good luck
 
stunter6912 said:
K ill check spark after work today. This wouldn't mess with my pma would it??
Click to expand...

The ignition system has nothing to do with the PMA. I would suggest that you disconnect the PMA completely and power the PAMCO from the battery. You can't do much with the PMA unless the engine is running, so lets get the engine running first, then have a look at the PMA.

If and when you get the engine running, then the possible problem could be that the PMA regulator was damaged as well by the welding, so be alert to the possibility of a very high output voltage from the reg / rect that will fry the PAMCO and most of the remaining electrical system on the bike, including the battery.

1. Wear safety glasses in case the battery blows up.
2. Connect a voltmeter to the battery before starting the engine.

Working on an electrical system with a fully charged battery is like changing the spark plugs with the engine running. The battery doesn't make any noise, but it has a tremendous potential energy stored in it, so think before you do.
 
1. Do the freakin tests everyone has told you.
2. Actually figure out the problem instead of ordering shit blindly.
3. ???
4. Profit.
 
FathomYourFears said:
1. Do the freakin tests everyone has told you.
2. Actually figure out the problem instead of ordering shit blindly.
3. ???
4. Profit.
Click to expand...

Uh yea I got it buddy!! Did the test. NO spark!! This is my daily driver and second vehical, my wife is to Close to having our daughter to be stuck at the house with no car to get to the hospital. Hence why I need to get this bike going now!!! Tested for spark and there is none!!
 
Dude you would be amazed the money that does not have to be spent on these bikes in situations like this. Buy/borrow/use your own multimeter and just do the tests. Blindly throwing money at things like this isn't ignorant, it's just stupid. I'm seriously not trying to be a dick, but if you don't listen and keep assuming things it's only going to get worse.
 
Last edited:

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