Pamco + Integrated Regulator + Rect + New Charging System

[LuisN]

Hey Guys, im on here b/c im doing some work for a friends bike...

He installed the following

Pamco
New Charging system
Integrated Reg. and Rect
no kill switch -> uses key as kill switch to turn off bike (with old ignition system)
His key Switch is a 3 Prong switch. which if i looked at it correctly has 2 pos and 1 neg.

now the bike starts fine, but when you turn the key to off it stays on. there is no kill switch (i think he should add one for safety reasons) but it use to turn off via the key.

is anyone running the same setup as above? im pretty sure.

can someone help me out here ? thanks!

 

[thelowlife]

Little more info would help the situation.. What type of ignition is it? 3 positions? Wiring diagram used for it?

Depending on the ignition you may have the keyed ignition wired wrong. Again assuming it is a 3 position. You should have 3 prongs; one should provide constant power to the switch usually labeled 'B' for battery. The next one should be labeled 'L' for lights or accessories. And final position of the switch should be 'IGN' for ignition.

There shouldn't be a negative on the ignition. That’s probably where you are going wrong. You likely have constantly energized the 'IGN' prong. Use your multi meter and test the resistance between the prongs when your turn the switch.

Basically when your able to remove the key from the ignition, the little wiper inside the ignition switch should only complete the circuit for 'B'. Put the key in the ignition turn it to the first position you should have continuity (or a resistance) between the 'B' and 'L'. At this point the wiper is completing the circuit delivering power to the 'L' accessories and lights. Turn it the last time you will have continuity between 'B' 'L' and 'IGN' now allowing you to turn on the bike, to the rest of the electronics and ignition coils. If the key is turned back one position it should kill the power to the ignition.

The kill switch is used as a safety thing and a interruption for the power to the ignition coils.

More info:

The integrated regulator/rectifier if not wired correctly to the ignition switch may be giving constant power to the wrong terminal on the keyed switch as well. Double check that

 

[LuisN]

Yes he is using a 3 prong key switch and nothing has been switched there when it "was" working.

what should the integrated reg. and rect. be connected to. IF i remember

3 white/ yellow in some cases straight to the other 3 white / yellow wires.

he has a Green and a red and thats it. i think i know where we went wrong.

B -> goto the Red off the reg/rect.
Green from reg/rect-> black/frame/negative. correct? right i THINK he has red -> straight to battery.

 

[pamcopete]

The engine will keep running if you have connected the output of the reg / rect on the load side of the switch so the ignition is running off of the alternator. The out put from the rectifier has to go to the battery side of the switch so when you turn off the switch you are disconnecting both the battery and the alternator.

If you continue to run it this way, you will eventually fry something in the electrical department because the regulator goes ape shit without the battery to smooth out the voltage swings.

 

[LuisN]

So how should it be run?

 

[LuisN]

this is using the PMA Charging system by Hughs Btw.

a nice wiring diag. would be nice. but i cant find any that have the correct 3 white, 1 red and 1 green for the reg/rect.

and to confirm, i found this. BUT it requires a kill switch. is this best practice / how you recommend to do it pete?

 

[Phail]

This is almost exactly how I have mine wired up and it works great. I don't have the kill switch or the neutral switch.

 

[3Deuces]

Anyone know where to find that nifty little fuse block that's in the schematic Phail posted?

 

[LuisN]

yeah thats a good question!.

another thing, where are people getting those capacitors!? are they big? what is the exact model # for it.

is the post off the reg/rect /key going to it and the neg side to it grounded by the looks of that pic?

 

[3Deuces]

Capacitor is a Sparx unit available from Lowbrow Customs.

 

[WickedKlown2]

As 3Deuces pointed out you get the Sparx Capacitor from Lowbrow Customs : http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1695

Here is a picture for the size of the Sparx Cap next to my solo seat

I hope that helps

 

[LuisN]

So this is in place WITH the battery. OR if i didnt want to thats pretty much where the battery goes. i got it.. I want pamcopete to confirm thou. any thoughts pete?

 

[Phail]

Anyone know where to find that nifty little fuse block that's in the schematic Phail posted?

I got mine at Autozone. But I hear you can get them at Walmart too.

(PS, I did not make that diag. It's from the wiring diag thread.)

Here is a photo of my wiring.

 

[3Deuces]

No shit,Autozone? Never woulda thunk it.

Thanks for the info, I'm gonna stop on my way home from work tonite.

 

[uebe]

Same 6 pack at Auto Zone

 

[InfamousXS]

Would a fuse block like this work? Wanted a few extra slots for horn, blinkers, etc and wasn't looking to break the bank.

http://www.amazon.com/Seachoice-ATO-Fuse-Block-Gang/dp/B000N9PJ7W

I looked for the same block from Autozone that a few of you mentioned so far but the price was 60 bucks? Is that the right one? Yet to check Wally World or their price but will do so shortly.

 

[3Deuces]

The one I saw at Autozone yesterday was about 11 bucks.

 

[Phail]

$60! I paid like $10 for mine.

 

[InfamousXS]

Anyone using this set up - what pamco system did you go with? Just the basic setup for 142 or the high output setup for 170? I think I read somewhere to NOT go with anything higher than that but if that's wrong, feel free to correct me please.