PMA/PAMCO wiring diagram

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pmalace

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Brand new here and looking to install PMA with PAMCO ignition on my 80 XS650. Looking for as simple wiring diagram as possible to wire in toggle on/off switch with fuses. Keeping it simple with just headlight and brake light. Have seen few diagrams out there but want to be sure correct, running the single coil that came with PAMCO kit. basically want to ensure properly fused and placement of toggle/fuses. any help would be appreciated.
 
Click on the XS650 TECH button at the top of this page. Scroll down to the Electrical section, the first thread is XS650 wiring diagrams.
Look through the diagrams, find one that has the PMA and the Pamco. If not just replace whatever ignition used with a Pamco. Most have an engine stop switch, kill switch to some, just wire the Pamco after the Engine stop switch.
Leo
 
pmalace said:
Brand new here and looking to install PMA with PAMCO ignition on my 80 XS650. Looking for as simple wiring diagram as possible to wire in toggle on/off switch with fuses. Keeping it simple with just headlight and brake light. Have seen few diagrams out there but want to be sure correct, running the single coil that came with PAMCO kit. basically want to ensure properly fused and placement of toggle/fuses. any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

1. Battery or capacitor?
2. Kick or electric start?
3. Which PMA?
 
Just curious about the diagram attached if go only with toggle switch in lieu of key and a kill switch, switch has ACC/Ground and Power. Before the toggle was used as main power/key.
 

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pmalace said:
Just curious about the diagram attached if go only with toggle switch in lieu of key and a kill switch, switch has ACC/Ground and Power. Before the toggle was used as main power/key.
Click to expand...

My bike is wired in a very similar fashion as the diagram you have posed except I am using a battery. Pretty much the same setup that you have, Battery, PMA, kick only. I do have a key switch with the ACC position but I eliminated it so the only way I have power to the bike is when I put the ignition ON. I have noticed that many times I turn the bike off and the key is in the ACC position by my mistake so it is safer that I did not go for ACC. With your toggle switch you should be in the same boat, just on and off and you won't have to worry about the two switch setup that is in that diagram.
 
You can do as you want, but I have always thought having an engine stop switch on the bars near the throttle a good idea.
In some emergencies, like when you are laying in the road pinned under the bike, the main switch is under the bike, fuel leaking out of the carbs and tank. Being able to kill power to the ignition in an easy manner just might come in handy.
Leo
 
Stupid question, but with a capacitor wired like Pete's diagram, does it charge on first kick? I have a '76 XS 650, I am running the Pamco, Hugh's PMA, toggle on/off for main power and kill switch instead of a key, and I also run a fuse block.
Bike is kick only, headlight/tail light. I get nothing without using a battery, and if the battery gets low, the bike dies. Everything is wired/soldered like it should be.

Any advice on getting it to run with a cap and possibly why the cap is not getting a charge with everything being new? I have only ridden this around my street. Not registered yet, so no real miles on the electronics.

I purchased 2 Sparx caps from lowbrow, so that is what I am using.

Thanks.
 
odd, yeah with my bike you can see the lights in my gauges light up every time i kick it over. Im using a cheapo 25,000uf 35v cap, hhb pma, and points.
 
ember,

My standard recommendation is to wire the PAMCO temporarily to a separate battery to get the engine running so you can trouble shoot the PMA. If you have the capacitor wired in with reverse polarity, it will blow up as soon as the engine starts, so wear safety glasses (this is no joke).

One of four things will happen when you first fire up a PMA conversion:

1. The engine will start immediately, you will get 14.5 Volts on the cap and life will be beautiful! (Yeah, right...:laugh:)
2. The engine will not start because you are getting zero output from the PMA and you will break your leg kicking it with no joy....:banghead:
3. The engine will start immediately but the PMA will produce a destructive 20+ Volts and fry the entire electrical system, including the PAMCO...:eek:
4. The engine will start immediately but because you wired the capacitor in backwards the cap will explode and spray shrapnel all over the garage, killing the cat....:yikes:

Be careful and use a Voltmeter....:D
 
Last time I had it running, before my small battery pack went dead, I was reading around 14v via my voltmeter. Battery went dead and will not hold a charge it seems above 6v now, and I can not get the bike to fire.
I will have to double check, but with voltmeter attached to the wires going to the cap/battery, when kicked, it is barely putting out voltage. Seems like it may have been running off the battery before.

I know I have been through this before in the past with you, asking how to separate the PAMCO via the battery from the rest of the system, but I do not remember how to go about it. I will have to read on your site again on checking the system.

Sparx has the black/red labeled on the cap, so it is not reversed.

What voltage should I be reading with each kick? I wish I knew more about trouble shooting electrical systems. Always worried I am going to fry the Pamco some how.
 
Pamcopete,
So using your illustration with the toggle in lieu of the key, I am assuming that coming from th efuse into my toggle woul dbe to toggle Power, then all others would be tied into toggle ACC? then toggle ground to chassis ground? Forgive my ignorance but want to ensure done correctly.
 
pmalace said:
Pamcopete,
So using your illustration with the toggle in lieu of the key, I am assuming that coming from th efuse into my toggle woul dbe to toggle Power, then all others would be tied into toggle ACC? then toggle ground to chassis ground? Forgive my ignorance but want to ensure done correctly.
Click to expand...

Not sure I understand you about the toggle ground thing. Don't understand toggle ACC either. You have more than 140 characters to work with here.:thumbsup:..a bit of proof reading would be helpful as well..:D
 
pamcopete said:
Not sure I understand you about the toggle ground thing. Don't understand toggle ACC either. You have more than 140 characters to work with here.:thumbsup:..a bit of proof reading would be helpful as well..:D
Click to expand...

Sorry, was typing from the phone. Hope this clarifies, the toggle switch has three connections; power, ACC (assuming accessories), and ground. So my question was pertaining to the wiring of the toggle with your posted diagram. The battery and regulator going to the fuse, then fuse to power of the toggle, then would the red wires from the coil and the ignition (as well as any accessory like headlight, tail lights) go to the ACC connector on the toggle?
 
it sounds like something is wrong with toggle u should have 14vdc going to toggle always then 14vdc going through it when switched on thus energizing the pamco someone correct me if im wrong but thats the way i will soon be wiring mine up but with a battery instead of cap
 
Most toggle switchs don't have a ground. They can have several sets of terminals that make and/or make connections when you flip the switch.
Any way in the off position it shgould not let power throiugh, in the on position power will flow out on the acc terminal. If so the yes hook everthing to the acc terminal.
A pic of your switch may be interesting.
Leo
 
that is a very good diagram but i dont see any blinkers in there, could some one maybe explain to me step by step as to through the big one posted?
 
Kyle deGans said:
that is a very good diagram but i dont see any blinkers in there, could some one maybe explain to me step by step as to through the big one posted?
Click to expand...

if you need to know, my bike is a '79 xs650 special, stock alternator right now and changing out coils and ignition.
 

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