polishing alu-rims

[marp68]

Thanks!

It was quite a tough and long work to remove all corrosion. And I didn't want to use to rough things neither, just enough to help me get through but still without making big scratches. And I like this not completely chrome like finish that you can get on aluminium. My intention is to just take good care of the bike and, of course, take nice rides with it. Not to many projects...

 

[Stigda]

Hi ther, i have just done the same on my weels. Så du er fra Sverige, selv er jeg fra Norge og har hatt denne sykkelen i snart ett år.
(Hopefully you use the "fine" steel wool?)
My intention is much like yours, getting to know the bike better and making it look better. Some day i would like to change the rims to chromed, and the spokes to stainless steel. Next winter maybe.

Thanks to this forum, you all are fantastic!

 

[marp68]

Nice with a Nordic fellow here at the forum. There are some swedes as well, at least one...

I used quite fine wool. Then I finished with metalk polish. Still a lot of holes though. When I get to know the bike more, liking it etc, I will maybe sand the ditches away and at the same time change spokes. I also have a lot of other things to fix as well.

 

[Mikey]

There are three issues, failed clear paint, corroded aluminum and dull finish.
First you need to remove the clear coat as it gums up any type of abrasive you will use to remove the corroded aluminum. I have found that spray carb cleaner or acetone will make what remains of the clear coat very brittle, spray or wipe it on let it dry and the clear coat will nearly fall off the rim. It is a lot less messy than thick paint stripper. Next especially for the hard to get at deep grooves and spoke bases I use rotary abrasive brushes, I have been using the Weiler 4" Abrasive Nylon Wheel Brushes, they come in 2 grades orange and blue the orange is more aggressive but makes deeper scratches. These wheels last nearly forever, I have polished several wheels, a bunch of engine cases and an entire chro-moly frame and they are still going strong with no loss of abrasiveness. After the corrosion is gone then you can polish down to what ever level of shine you can force your self to spend the time to achieve. Factor in a few things before you say I want a see myself polish. If you have some pitting that won't polish out, and this is typical, a less shiny surface will help conceal those rough areas. If you tend to ride the bike more than clean it a lower gloss is easier to maintain.

When you are using the carb cleaner or acetone did you clean the bare rims or with tires on
Just concerned about the rubber strip on the inside of the rims

 

[Mailman]

When you are using the carb cleaner or acetone did you clean the bare rims or with tires on
Just concerned about the rubber strip on the inside of the rims

Have a look here, for a different take. Posts 184 through 190.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-60th-birthday-present.47639/page-10#post-486751

 

[Mikey]

Have a look here, for a different take. Posts 184 through 190.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/my-60th-birthday-present.47639/page-10#post-486751

I will try the orange stripper it seems pretty harmless for the most part
But then I saw the thread part about cleaning the electrical connection WTH I gotta try that too
I've cleaned up the male ends easy enough don't know about the female ends
I have a cheap HF Dremel of sort of thing its time to get some accessories from HF wire wheels tec
There's always a sale at HF if not today next week

 

[Mikey]

There are three issues, failed clear paint, corroded aluminum and dull finish.
First you need to remove the clear coat as it gums up any type of abrasive you will use to remove the corroded aluminum. I have found that spray carb cleaner or acetone will make what remains of the clear coat very brittle, spray or wipe it on let it dry and the clear coat will nearly fall off the rim. It is a lot less messy than thick paint stripper. Next especially for the hard to get at deep grooves and spoke bases I use rotary abrasive brushes, I have been using the Weiler 4" Abrasive Nylon Wheel Brushes, they come in 2 grades orange and blue the orange is more aggressive but makes deeper scratches. These wheels last nearly forever, I have polished several wheels, a bunch of engine cases and an entire chro-moly frame and they are still going strong with no loss of abrasiveness. After the corrosion is gone then you can polish down to what ever level of shine you can force your self to spend the time to achieve. Factor in a few things before you say I want a see myself polish. If you have some pitting that won't polish out, and this is typical, a less shiny surface will help conceal those rough areas. If you tend to ride the bike more than clean it a lower gloss is easier to maintain.

I found these brushes are those the ones you use
WEILER VORTEC Med/Fine 4" Abrasive Nylon Wheel Brush 1/4" Stem Blue NEW

 

[Mikey]

I found these brushes are those the ones you use
WEILER VORTEC Med/Fine 4" Abrasive Nylon Wheel Brush 1/4" Stem Blue NEW

or these

 

[gggGary]

Update of my method; wheel clean up, corrosion in the gutters on WM rims. Semi rigid media helps keep the surface even, the Dico which I use everywhere else tend to leave a somewhat rippled surface in the dish where the corrosion is often the worst.
This type

If you can find one that states the grit, ie 320, a good compromise between getting the job done and not creating deep, hard to polish, scratches. More likely to chuck it in a variable speed drill than an angle grinder, giving better feel and control. Mounting the motorcycle wheel so it can rotate while you work helps keep things even.
Don't worry about the square edges it will quickly match the contour of the gutter. Heads up; they are nowhere near as long lasting as the Dico wheels. But aren't expensive.
It's a reasonable precaution to remove tires and get a good overall feel for the structural strength of the wheel. I've scrapped several rims that I thought were corroded beyond safe for normal use and I'm not all that fussy.
Tire rubber is pretty tough, I haven't seen any degradation from chemical use. Old age, another matter.
Full disclosure cleaning up rims is a pain, the spokes are usually shot in the great white north. I like to respoke with stainless and if it's not a restoration, go up a width or two on the rims.

 

[Mikey]

Update of my method; wheel clean up, corrosion in the gutters on WM rims. Semi rigid media helps keep the surface even, the Dico which I use everywhere else tend to leave a somewhat rippled surface in the dish where the corrosion is often the worst.
This type

If you can find one that states the grit, ie 320, a good compromise between getting the job done and not creating deep, hard to polish, scratches. More likely to chuck it in a variable speed drill than an angle grinder, giving better feel and control. Mounting the motorcycle wheel so it can rotate while you work helps keep things even.
Don't worry about the square edges it will quickly match the contour of the gutter. Heads up; they are nowhere near as long lasting as the Dico wheels. But aren't expensive.
It's a reasonable precaution to remove tires and get a good overall feel for the structural strength of the wheel. I've scrapped several rims that I thought were corroded beyond safe for normal use and I'm not all that fussy.
Tire rubber is pretty tough, I haven't seen any degradation from chemical use. Old age, another matter.
Full disclosure cleaning up rims is a pain, the spokes are usually shot in the great white north. I like to respoke with stainless and if it's not a restoration, go up a width or two on the rims.

Thanks for the info Gary I was looking to buy the 240 Dico wheels but now I'll get the 320
I take it HF might have the wheel you have pictured I have an arbor to be able to chuck it into my drill so that won't be an issue
My rims are in pretty decent shape just dull and they still have a bunch of the clear coat on them
making shining them up impossible until clear coat is gone
Edit: Dico only goes as fine as 240

 

[jetmechmarty]

Just a note on corrosion. It's best to avoid steel wool for cleaning aluminum. Imbedded steel particles will cause dissimilar metal (galvanic) corrosion. I use garnet paper and aluminum wool.

 

[Mikey]

Just a note on corrosion. It's best to avoid steel wool for cleaning aluminum. Imbedded steel particles will cause dissimilar metal (galvanic) corrosion. I use garnet paper and aluminum wool.

Thanks for the reminder

 

[Mikey]

Update of my method; wheel clean up, corrosion in the gutters on WM rims. Semi rigid media helps keep the surface even, the Dico which I use everywhere else tend to leave a somewhat rippled surface in the dish where the corrosion is often the worst.
This type

If you can find one that states the grit, ie 320, a good compromise between getting the job done and not creating deep, hard to polish, scratches. More likely to chuck it in a variable speed drill than an angle grinder, giving better feel and control. Mounting the motorcycle wheel so it can rotate while you work helps keep things even.
Don't worry about the square edges it will quickly match the contour of the gutter. Heads up; they are nowhere near as long lasting as the Dico wheels. But aren't expensive.
It's a reasonable precaution to remove tires and get a good overall feel for the structural strength of the wheel. I've scrapped several rims that I thought were corroded beyond safe for normal use and I'm not all that fussy.
Tire rubber is pretty tough, I haven't seen any degradation from chemical use. Old age, another matter.
Full disclosure cleaning up rims is a pain, the spokes are usually shot in the great white north. I like to respoke with stainless and if it's not a restoration, go up a width or two on the rims.

 

[Mikey]

Gary where do you find the cheaper grinding wheels at
Thanks Mike

 

[gggGary]

Here's some
https://www.ebay.com/itm/180-240-32...hash=item5d760a74ca:m:mxt0omITP6WN5mwR5df2GIA
free virus included in every package.

 

[glennpm]

Used
Chemicals, Dilco wheels and polisher with stuff from Caswell and many hours!!

 

[Mikey]

Here's some
https://www.ebay.com/itm/180-240-32...hash=item5d760a74ca:m:mxt0omITP6WN5mwR5df2GIA
free virus included in every package.

Thanks virus accepted

 

[gggGary]

Thanks virus accepted

While looking for those I ran into these.
https://www.amazon.com/PURUI-Polishing-Buffing-Aluminum-Stainless/dp/B0838QX2XL
they seem neat and useful may try some... Not COMPLETELY clear but it seems the grit is infused.

Note grit color coding is different than the dico system.
for these
white; fine, orange; medium, blue; coarse.
Dico
gray; coarse, orange; medium, blue; fine.
Material: 3M Non woven cloth
Abrasive: Aluminium oxide
Used on polisher or automatic machines for satin finish and cleaning, can polishing all metals, such as aluminium, brass, and stainless steel.

 

[glennpm]

Those flapper wheels look great!

 

[Mikey]

While looking for those I ran into these.
https://www.amazon.com/PURUI-Polishing-Buffing-Aluminum-Stainless/dp/B0838QX2XL
they seem neat and useful may try some... Not COMPLETELY clear but it seems the grit is infused.

Note grit color coding is different than the dico system.
for these
white; fine, orange; medium, blue; coarse.
Dico
gray; coarse, orange; medium, blue; fine.
Material: 3M Non woven cloth
Abrasive: Aluminium oxide
Used on polisher or automatic machines for satin finish and cleaning, can polishing all metals, such as aluminium, brass, and stainless steel.

I was trying to find something like you were suggesting but as usual you have to know what to ask for exactly
to be able to find them
Thanks for all your effort now if and when spring comes I can get those rims of mine looking good again
Not a perfect chrome finish but something that isn't so dull and ratty looking