Product Tip – Cleaning Those Dirty Switches or Contacts

[jims428]

Besides bikes and cars one of my other interests is analog stereo equipment from the 60's & 70's, both vacuum tube and solid state.
One of the more common problems is dirty/corroded switches and contacts that make for poor, interment, or loss of connections.
Sounds familiar doesn't it?

The contact cleaner you get at the hardware store just does an OK job. You use a lot of it and it still does not do the best job.
Instead look for Caig's DeoxIT D5 (5% solution) http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1602/.f?sc=2&category=188

"Unique contact cleaner, rejuvenator, conductivity enhancer and lubricant; dissolves oxidation and corrosion on metal surfaces, fills in microscopic gaps and reseals surface for better contact to enhance flow of electricity. Improves connector performance/reliability. Temperature range: -34 to +200oC."

You can find it at Radio Shack, Electronic Stores, or online. It is a little more expensive than contact cleaner but a little bit goes a long way so you don't need to use much, and IT WORKS!
You just spray a little bit into your switches, hard to reach contacts, PWB's, etc, and let the chemical reaction do its thing.
For switches work the switches a bit. After a couple minutes spray a little more to flush out the crud.
I use a rag around the areas I spray as a precaution but for everything I've used it on it has not harmed any of the finishes. It dries in a couple minutes with no residue except maybe some of the crud it has flushed out.
Give it a try. It's one of those products that just works.

 

[xjwmx]

Having been in electronics for most of a century, I've settled on CRC brand contact cleaner. I use it on everything from ribbon cables, to potentiometers, to mouse switches. It evaporates quickly. Safe for everything. Available at many auto parts stores.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner-Aerosol/dp/B003NTQCA2,

 

[angus67]

Having been in electronics for most of a century, I've settled on CRC brand contact cleaner. I use it on everything from ribbon cables, to potentiometers, to mouse switches. It evaporates quickly. Safe for everything. Available at many auto parts stores.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner-Aerosol/dp/B003NTQCA2,

I just used that to flush out my yamaha cr-220. the balance was all wacky. now only scratchy while turning it.
got it for 65$ at pawn. talked down from 75$. no lights other than power work on it, but the sound is great with polk 6", silk dome tweets, and a 10 band pass amped by a old realistic pa. I spend more time in my garage just rockin' out, than in my livin room.My air guitar has greatly improved!! I just did a re-jet on a friends intruder 1400, and cleaned all the connectors we could get to under the seat, couldnt tell a difference, bike is like new from 1987.

 

[xjwmx]

Usually you can remove the knob from the spindle and shoot it down the space around the spindle, and not even have to open the case.

 

[jims428]

Yes, myself and other audiophiles used to use CRC. We found it usually took multiple applications. A lot of the time it still would not solve the problem completely, especially on switches.
We found DeoxIT usually worked in one application, or two applications for the tough jobs. It is easier and cheaper in the long run. People who have tried DeoxIT tend to stick with it. Again, it just works
I still use CRC and the like for light duty stuff but usually find myself having to follow up with DeoxIT.

In another thread I mentioned using aircraft aluminum polishes instead of automotive aluminum polishes like Mother's for polishing engine covers and the like.. The aircraft polish is a little more expensive but the job is so much easier and a lot faster, plus you get a much better result.
DeoxIT is like that. It is a better tool for the job.
BTW – I have no affiliation with any of these companies. Being generally lazy I like things that are easier, more reliable, and faster.
Take it as you will.

Angus67 – Use DeoxIT on those pots and you will get rid of all those troubles. Like xjwmx said take the knobs off, and shoot a little into the switches. Work the switches back and forth for awhile and shoot a little more in there to flush it out. Let it dry for a couple minutes and try it out. Oh... be sure to unplug it first. Lets be safe out there guys.
BTW – Great site for the older audio stuff. Just audio, no attitude. http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php

 

[xjwmx]

I wonder if an audiophile would think his bike sounded better if the contacts in the bike were gold plated.

 

[jims428]

Now your being a troll again.
Next thing you know you will be teasing me about using the Brilliant Pebbles with my audio gear.
http://www.machinadynamica.com/machina31.htm

 

[xjwmx]

"reseals surface for better contact to enhance flow of electricity. "

Who can argue with that?

But seriously - if you want good contacts on a motorcycle use sandpaper, pliers, and grease.