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Mark Lewis

XS650 Enthusiast
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Here's what I've done so far. I'd still like to get some original handlebars and a better gas tank. I am going to use these Harley mufflers my friend found at the dump. They look quite a bit like the original mufflers.
 

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Actually using compressed air takes out non creased dents better than pulling them does. There are usually always 650B tanks on EbAy for under $150.00 but just like any auto/Truck/Motorcycle tin parts that are nearing 50 years old, tanks are going to have dings in them.
The really clean ones are usually still on the bikes that as clean as the tank! But I am betting that tank will straighten out, it just comes down to money and if you want to spend it! BTW the 75' xs650 B are my favorite year, seems they finally got everything right with them, then more and more Plastic started to show up on Bikes after that.. My Newish Suzuki Boulevard C50T Touring bike has Plastic Fenders?????
 
The 1975 is attractive and has most of the bugs worked out it seams. The tank is pretty clean inside.
Yes I agree 100% I have owned a 71 XS, 72, couple 73s my current 75, a 76 and 79 650 I just love the way it stands up to the rest of them, I don't know why I have always had the feeling there were 2 series of 650, the 70-75 and the 76-80 don't know why.
The Sparkle Black with the Gold Decals are just so classy! To me only the beautiful Saphire Blue with the Black/gold Emblems of the 73'TX challenged it.
When the finances allow I plan to either paint mine a candy Ruby Red with the Emblems or a candy Teal with the original Emblems/Decals.. I have had it since the early 90's and the black has run it's course with me...lol
 
Hi Mark,
yeah, those bars just gotta go!
And DO NOT put air pressure in your tank. Firstly, it's bloody dangerous and secondly, because of their ridges and tight curves plus
the work-hardening caused in their formation those dents have become the strongest part of the tank.
OK you can use pressurized liquid so you don't make an air-bomb but internal pressure will spread the tank tunnel so much that the tank won't be usable long before those dents move at all.
I'd say you have to sacrifice the paint job, scuff the dents down to bare metal, torch-anneal the dents to dull red, polish the deepest parts of each dent
bright and shiny, low-temperature-braze 1/4" flat head screws on the dents and take a slide-hammer to them to pull out the worst of the dents.
they won't be perfect but they'll be good enough to fill with bondo after you've unbrazed the studs.
 
I've had good results pressurizing tanks with 60 psi air to remove dents.
Scott
Hi Scott,
lucky you. Others may not be as fortunate.
OTOH pressurized water is far safer and may perhaps work, like the paintless dent repair kits, on smooth shallow dents, the sort you could pop out by hand if you could get at them from the inside.
But not on the dents in Mark's tank, those dents are too deep and sharp edged for that.
 
The dent on the Road King tank was about 3" long, 1/2" deep and without a crease but it is not noticeable over 5' now, unless you are a body guy or painter. Much less spendy than new tank.
 
I found replacement decals for $60.00! They aren't that hard to put on IF you are prepared. For one detailed Pictures of the old tank printed out and in plastic sleeves, Measurements marked with a grease pencil. A bottle of soapy tepid water and a rubber or plastic scraper for wrinkles and bubbles.
You have to keep working the wrinkles and keep the decals wet with the water bottle because once they adhere they are there until they are scraped or sanded off. It can save you a lot of money over having the Body shop do them. Just take the tank back to them for clear coating.
The 1975 Tank Emblems are about the hardest because of the multiple pieces and centering the lines straight.
 
That tanks been in a scuffle, I just saw the image on my computer vs phone. I'd stud weld that badass and pop her out with a slide hammer, body hammer with finesse post pull out, fill at the crease if you can't get out, well you get the picture.I'm a firm believer in the Matt Joseph method of working from the end point of impact back to its inception point, but that's me. Or sell it to me for my collection
 
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