Project... "Fast & Flow"

Thanks guys. Another update; I got the chain shortened and installed yesterday which allowed me to install my electrical box as well. Pics below.

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That's a slick looking electronics tube. Before I saw it on the bike I was a little skeptical, glad to see I was wrong!
 
Hi fox,
although it's said that "Bairns and fools shouldn't see a boat that's only half built."
I do wonder.
The photos show a drum rear wheel and a hydraulic rear brake master cylinder.
WTF?
 
Hi fox,
although it's said that "Bairns and fools shouldn't see a boat that's only half built."
I do wonder.
The photos show a drum rear wheel and a hydraulic rear brake master cylinder.
WTF?

haha yes, I am converting to a rear disc mag but am missing one of the spacers still so I can't use it for mock up just yet. Hopefully I will have the correct spacers sometime soon so I can mock up the disc rear wheel and install the caliper/caliper stay rod.
 
Lines on bike look very cool. Wiring will work but you have no wire for tail running light , second relay to key is useless Starter relay does that job and I would not jump around with all different size wires. All my harnesses are 16 gage and work well.
Here is a good diagram to go off of.
 

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I must of missed it, but what tank are you running?? Love the lines

Thanks man, its a Cole Foster tank.

Lines on bike look very cool. Wiring will work but you have no wire for tail running light , second relay to key is useless Starter relay does that job and I would not jump around with all different size wires. All my harnesses are 16 gage and work well.
Here is a good diagram to go off of.

Thanks man, I do have a running tail light wire, its the red one coming into the tail light.
By second relay to the key I think your talking about the one between the key and all the accessory circuits (lights, ignition etc.). It is necessary because, A, the starter relay has nothing to do with those items, it only handles power for starting to the starting motor. B, Without this "second relay" it means the power for those accessory items would go directly through the switch, which IMO is not a good idea because the switch is only rated for 10A. I will keep your wiring gauge advice in mind. However I am trying to keep the wiring gauges as small as possible (while still being safe) since I am running them all in the frame there is not a lot of extra room.
 
I was able to get a decent amount done this weekend on the bike. The bomb proof key cylinder tube was welded in, also my hi-low beam switch bracket, chain tensioner, and remote front master cylinder.

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ohhh, nice! did you chamfer the holes after the powdercoat, or have them mask it? Good motivation for hole size. what is the spacing between those?? Also, I like how you went from rib to rib
 
ohhh, nice! did you chamfer the holes after the powdercoat, or have them mask it? Good motivation for hole size. what is the spacing between those?? Also, I like how you went from rib to rib

No chamfer on the holes, drilled them before I powdercoated them and then reamed them out with a bit that was 1/32nd larger than the original holes. I put the drill pattern up on the forum here in the "how to drill mag wheels" thread. Thanks for the compliments.
 
1- that's a HELL of an engine locating fixture. Nice work!

2- loving the splay cuts on the lower crossmember. Looks like just a piece of tube bent the hard way.
 
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