rear running light burns out

Seems like alot of people on here are really against hardtails. I dont get it

some people like standard motorcycles and others are raving maniacs :D

that's a heavy tail lamp assembly I think it's a vibration problem, lighter assemby or better vibe isolation or go with a LED bulb, throw a girl friend on the back and ask her if it vibrates
 
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You could try another incandescent fixture to see if you have the same problem.

I went back through the thread and you say you have tried other fixture with the same results so we know that isn't it.
Have you checked voltage at the socket?
 
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So xs650dl. You have any advice. I have tried rubber mounts and same situation. I also have a friend with the same set up same spot and he had no problems

Catastrophe, I'm not sure what the problem is if it's electrical. My '77 ignition switch has an "accessory" position but I think it just runs the lights alone without the engine running. I never use that position. I think it's like running parking lights on an auto.
I hope someone comes up with an answer that will help you solve your problem.
I'll be watching the forum. Maybe your light would vibrate less if rubber mounted on the fender
rather than the sissy bar. Good Luck.
 
Seems like alot of people on here are really against hardtails. I dont get it

Haha, yep, welcome to the sandbox. Myself, I like 'em all.

Incandescent bulb life expectancy is affected by voltage, duration, mechanical jostling, and (probably in this case) on/off switching cycles. You may be thinking of the mechanical/vibration of the bulb filament, but rapid on/off intermittant voltage surges should be considered. These would be caused by the vibration, but could occur anywhere in the current path, both positive and ground. You could try temporary bypass wiring to help isolate the problem...
 
I am that masochist. As far as vibration knocking that filament off wouldnt the brake light filament break as well. One filament isnt stronger then the other. I have used rubber to mount it and grounded straight to the frame. I have used different mounts in different spots as well.

Actually the brake light filament is a lot stronger than the tail light. The brake light filament rated at 27 watts is made of larger gauge wire and is quite robust. The tail light rated at 8 watts is made of a small gauge wire and is therefore somewhat fragile.

No question about it, the vibration from that badboy is destroying the tail light filament. That tail/brake unit you have looks to be heavy duty, meaning more weight, which means it's prone to more vibration than a lighter unit.

Simple solution..................use an LED tail/brake unit.
 
Retiredgentleman his first post says he tried other lights. At first pass I thought he meant bulbs but maybe he meant fixtures.
 
I am that masochist. As far as vibration knocking that filament off wouldnt the brake light filament break as well. One filament isnt stronger then the other. I have used rubber to mount it and grounded straight to the frame. I have used different mounts in different spots as well.

Hi cat,
take a look at my avatar. See how the plate is bolted to a rubber sheet that is bolted to the bike? You should mount your rear light that way.
Then check and double-check your wiring.
About a perceived hatred of hardtails, my first 5 years riding in the 1950s was on old rigid framed British bikes that were all a poorly paid apprentice could afford and that experience makes me reckon that rear suspension was bike design's next great leap forward after the front brake.
OTOH, hardtails are bikes that were built with rear suspension and then had it sawn off.
Anyone who voluntarily rides a hardtail must either be a masochist or believe that O.C.Choppers is for real.
 
Weekend rider. I havent checked the voltage to the socket. That is something I will check. I have tried other fixtures that were lighter and not so robust.
Retiredgentleman. Thanks for your knowledge on a lightbulb but like I previously stated I HAVE tried other fixtures and different locations.
Fredintoon. So far off with the oc choppers. One of the best part of the xs650 is its versatility. From cafe to bobber, chopper, tracker, hill climber. Even stock. There all fun to ride. Seems to me like the ones that dont like hardtails are just beat up old guys whos backs cant handle it. Maybe I will be in that boat myself one day. Untill then I just like motorcycles. all kinds.
 
Resurrecting because of the similar problem. My tail/brake light is melting the tail/running light element. 77 D stock wiring loom with a solid state rectifier and VR115 regulator.
I've used two newer bulbs and have had the same results. I robbed a bulb from an HS fixture I had and notice the bulb(which I assume to be a stock item) is different in it has a standoff leg to support the tail/running light element. Anyone know of a replacement that has the same brace leg? Tried google and can find 1157's without the support. None the same as what the (I believe to be) stock bulbs.

I don't think vibration is the culprit but may be a contributing factor.
At 5K rpm in 5th I get a voltage surge? My headlight gets white light bright not the familiar yellowish light. The pattern doesn't change so it isn't a bright light bleed over.
Or powering both headlight elements.
The voltage spike is intermittent but only happens at 5K and above.
The voltage regulator has been functioning.
Voltage reading of 13.2 at idle and 14.2-14.5 at 3K and above in the shop.
I cannot reproduce the problem on the center stand in the shop only on the road.
The taillight is under a back/luggage rack so I can't really keep an eye on it while riding but seems to last till I get almost home. So it will last on the trip in and most ways home around 40 miles.
Quick scan of the loom, to the tail light and the exposed wiring in the headlight bucket doesn't find anything that stands out(melted insulation or broken/rubbed places).
Future checks will be grounding points and install a volt meter to see how high the spikes are.
 
IMHO I'd be looking for a loose connection somewhere. creates a voltage spike that builds faster than the regulator can clamp. boom, the tail light bulb is gone. Try an LED bulb?

Perhaps the rack is a clue vibration is strange stuff. I am amazed how fast SOME XS650s will destroy a license plate. crack it off in short order Other XSs don't bother the plate at all. shrug.
 
- - - I am amazed how fast SOME XS650s will destroy a license plate. crack it off in short order Other XSs don't bother the plate at all. shrug.

Hi Gary,
only SOME? I thought they all did.
The day after first time I put a plate on my Heritage Special the local Mountie pulled me over to ask me why the bike had no plate.
We agreed that the two little corners still firmly bolted to the bike, plus it's valid registration, showed that the rest of the plate was laying on the highway someplace.
Like it shows in my avatar, I've been rubber mounting my plate ever since.
 
Yeah I have a some that don't bother their plates. I grab an old plate and silicone it to the back of the new plate bolt all 4 corners that seems to stop the tearing. Specially now that I get vintage plates good for my lifetime.
 
I've only had the broken license plates on the '80 & 83's.
No problems with the standards.
Retiregentleman says it isn't a problem on the early specials but I've never had a 78-79
special.
@ Fred for the later specials I've used 1" fender washers with inner tube under them with success.

@ Gary I did notice some of the bullet connections "snap" in but then have wiggle to them. I'll put the squeeze on the off side of the female to see if that tightens them up some.
 
- - - @ Fred for the later specials I've used 1" fender washers with inner tube under them with success. - - -

Hi WER,
but my bike runs tubeless?
Kidding aside, any sort of rubber mounting will keep a plate from fatigue failure.
My Avatar shows my plate when it was bolted to a rubber mudflap.
My latest methodology uses an M6 stainless steel bolt, Nylok nut and two flat washers plus three flat rubber kitchen tap washers each side holding the plate directly onto the plate mounting bracket.
 
I have an 81 xs650. Pamco ignition and stock charging. Regulator/rectifier from mikes. Brake light is hooked to the accessories on my key switch. Cant figure out why everytime:wtf: I ride the rear running light burns out. Brake light still works but running light doesn't. It burns out within 30 min of riding. I have tried different brake lights, same result. Anyone have an idea what's going on.

THIS JUST HAPPENED TO ME. My wife was bugging me so I hopped on the bike for a ride and the running light is out but the brake light is good. Going to check tomorrow.
 
THIS JUST HAPPENED TO ME. My wife was bugging me so I hopped on the bike for a ride and the running light is out but the brake light is good. Going to check tomorrow.
Hi Yamaha77,
perhaps just a loose connector but bulb filaments do fail now and then.
If it's been years since that bulb was changed just buy a new one.
If it blows replacement bulbs at frequent intervals, there's likely a problem.
 
You heard the best advice switch to LED but yes your mount will encourage vibration fire up the engine watch the tail light while you rev etc. Yamaha rubber mounted the snot out of the factory parts back there. They went though 3 or 4 rear fender designs trying to find one that didn't tear it's self apart. literally ripping metal in two, a common issue with any parallel twin that doesn't have balance shafts. Even on stock later models license plate frequently crack and tear. Motorcycle specific bulbs are built tougher than generic auto bulbs just to deal with the vibration.
 
Simple metal frame that allows 4 screws helps a lot.
 

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