red bull ktm ken roczens xs 650 bobber

[jd750ace]

Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?

Legitemate questions too hard to answer? Is that how you "roll"?

Is ignoring the hard questions what you do with "customers" too?

C'mon buddy. A whole slew of potential customers will judge your business sense by how you respond to legitemate questions about your product. Silence speaks volumes.

 

[2eightcustoms]

thanks!!

 

[Tron]

I dig it. very clean.. a antigravity slipped into that electronics tray would really clean it up.


EDIT: Jd, your a twat and need to go sit in a corner.

 

[jd750ace]

I'll lead by example here and answer your questions. Yes, I do have a clue how much time goes into a rebuild. I have been working on restoring an aircraft since last January, and every last part has to be correct, safe and serviceable, so yes, I have a clue.
My particular XS has NOT been washed, or rebuilt, so your assessment is accurate. It's sat, not running regular, since 1994. I am not an expert, but I do know a thing or two about what it takes to make one of these things reliable, and what products work and don't. I've read much on these very pages, and learned a bit in some 300,000 miles of riding and wrenching as well. I'm and inquiring mind. I would simply like some answers to the questions I asked that make sense, not just calling me a hater because I refuse to accept it at "face value"

So, Mr. Builder, Cowboy up and answer the questions, and I have another. Since you don't do "catalog bikes" as you say and you "build everything" did you build or buy the hard tail?
I don't think I'm asking unfair questions. Hugh would answer these questions if they were about his build. He might tell me to go sit and spin on the exhaust/seat relationship, I don't think I've ever see such an ill axle fit out of his shop, and he'd likely tell me if the customer elected to go cheap on some things to get the essence of what they wanted but stay in budget, or defend the quality of the part, and maybe educate all of us.
If you can't tune, you sure as hell don't need to be "building" That's an opinion. A bolt is supposed to go all the way through a nut and get torqued to generate the intended retention. That's a fact.

 

[Tron]

No, your questions are not unfair at all. It's how you ask them. At this point, your just calling te guy out trying to make him look stupid. And he is responding correctly by ignoring you. I suggest you back off and find another thread to pick on somebody. Feel free to use mine, it's titled ''stovetop scrambler''

 

[jd750ace]

I suggest if someone is going to come on here and brag about thier product and what magazine it's going to be in, be ready to be called out, grow a spine and answer questions. Ignoring the questions of your potential base is a great way to send potential customers the other direction, and I stand by my questions and thier location. I admire your attempts to deflect me, but I won't be. When the magazine article shows, if I don't have answers, and if the article don't answer the tough questions, I'll be asking them in a letter to the editor as well.
Continued silence speaks volumes.

 

[Shickey]

. . . just not as much volume as being an ass.

 

[jd750ace]

Ass or not, questions unanswered.

Ya'll can go jerk each other off all ya want. If he's gonna be a business, he's gotta grow some balls and business sense.

Bunch of coddling whores around here sometimes.

 

[Sonnylynnvick75]

you sir are an askhole

Askhole, Noun- a person who uses an internet forum to ask condescending questions to try and lower others down to his level. Someone who obviously has too many issues of their own who gain some strange sense of self fulfillment by talking down to others while pretending to be of a higher intellect so as to raise their own self esteem.

ex.
randommember - jd750ace asks questions to 2eightcustoms that could be asked far more reasonably via a pm or even on this thread in more formal way.

Sonnylynnvick75 - yeah man hes such an askhole its not even funny.

 

[jd750ace]

Try to stay on topic. Go to another section and start a JD is an asshole thread if you want, but I maintain that the questions are reasonable and should be answered by someone who has the balls to come here and throw out a promo thread on thier work.

 

[Sonnylynnvick75]

All we are asking is that you effing pm the dude. No one wants to see someone pick at a guy after hes put a ton of effort into something over some questions. Big deal if you have a question settle it in private. Gees

 

[jd750ace]

The marketplace is public as far as I'm concerned when you post up pics bragging about your press.

 

[A5HLEY]

jd750ace

You might me the biggest loser in the history of the internet. Get a life man...and crawl back into your basement to work on that model aircraft.

 

[jd750ace]

It barely fits in a 25000 square foot building, so I can't very well take it to the basement. If asking legitimate questions makes me a horrible person then so be it. Would you buy it yourself without knowing what engine and electrical work was done?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Hey, 2eightcustoms, real nice bike, like the paint.

Unfortunately, I'm going to throw in here with JD. One of the handiest things about this forum is the ability of members to spot and diagnose over the 'net, thru the use of detailed pics. We're here to help each other. Please take the observations of a FAA certified A&P seriously, whose job and talent is spotting potential hazards and non-standard/accepted methods of manufacture, which ensure our safety on the most complicated and heavily engineered machines known to man. And, you're getting this scrutiny non-gratis. That said, I'd like to add the following:

1 - The brake stay - looks like a rod, bent like a spoke, threaded through the backing plate like a spoke. This is not a solid mount, with localized stresses, may prematurely wear/oblong the backing plate stay hole, leading to failure. This stay hole is also located such that it's relationship with the axle and the angle of the stay rod increases the tension/compression the rod may receive, by about 50%. The rod also appears to be bent upwards to clear the rear fender. During a hard stop in reverse, say catching yourself rolling backwards at an uphill stop, this rod could buckle/break. Plus, going forward, during a hard stop, the rod may try to flex/straighten, leading to bent fender and undulating brake action.

2 - The rear brake actuating arm and rod - there is a lot of exposed thread on the actuating rod, giving the impression that the brakes are worn to limit. Some cheaper brands of rear brake linings are thinner than stock, and give this appearance even when brand-new. An astute customer would notice this.

3 - The actuating angle of the gear-shift lever - I'm sure folks could adapt to it, but the best place for the rotation axis of foot operated levers is as close to the footpeg as possible, as on custom rear-sets and front-sets.

Your customer is a professional, he will eventually notice these things, he may or may not not voice his opinion now, but could 'grapevine' this in the future. Or worse, SUE you!

Potential customers, and current enthusiasts will be seeing these things in public photography. Nip it in the bud, get a clean reputation started.

Again, we're here to help one another, please take the preceeding as constructive, not condescending. You have excellent build talents, but you cannot be expected to know all the pitfalls. When you succeed, we all succeed...

 

[Sonnylynnvick75]

Too many is in fact not an askhole but a person giving advice.

 

[2eightcustoms]

the "rod" is 4130 chromoly tapped at both ends for a nut as you can see, ive been doing it this way on the last 9-10 xs650 and have had no issues, as for the pads there are brand new ebc shoes. because u see a different idea than the usual doesn't mean its unsafe, if that were true we would all be riding stock mopeds.. again ive built around 15 of these bikes pretty much the same ecept body differences and haven't had a single problem and I ride the hell out of them

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Yeah, I've got EBC shoes on the back, too. Noticed how much clearance they had with the drum, puts the brake cam in an advanced position. Was thinking about modifying the common brake shoe pivot post to take-up that slack, and put the wear point back in the middle of the shoes, increasing their life expectancy.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Also, I've built dozens of bikes, overhauled near a thousand.

 

[jd750ace]

Hey, 2eightcustoms, real nice bike, like the paint.

Unfortunately, I'm going to throw in here with JD. One of the handiest things about this forum is the ability of members to spot and diagnose over the 'net, thru the use of detailed pics. We're here to help each other. Please take the observations of a FAA certified A&P seriously, whose job and talent is spotting potential hazards and non-standard/accepted methods of manufacture, which ensure our safety on the most complicated and heavily engineered machines known to man. And, you're getting this scrutiny non-gratis. That said, I'd like to add the following:

1 - The brake stay - looks like a rod, bent like a spoke, threaded through the backing plate like a spoke. This is not a solid mount, with localized stresses, may prematurely wear/oblong the backing plate stay hole, leading to failure. This stay hole is also located such that it's relationship with the axle and the angle of the stay rod increases the tension/compression the rod may receive, by about 50%. The rod also appears to be bent upwards to clear the rear fender. During a hard stop in reverse, say catching yourself rolling backwards at an uphill stop, this rod could buckle/break. Plus, going forward, during a hard stop, the rod may try to flex/straighten, leading to bent fender and undulating brake action.

2 - The rear brake actuating arm and rod - there is a lot of exposed thread on the actuating rod, giving the impression that the brakes are worn to limit. Some cheaper brands of rear brake linings are thinner than stock, and give this appearance even when brand-new. An astute customer would notice this.

3 - The actuating angle of the gear-shift lever - I'm sure folks could adapt to it, but the best place for the rotation axis of foot operated levers is as close to the footpeg as possible, as on custom rear-sets and front-sets.

Your customer is a professional, he will eventually notice these things, he may or may not not voice his opinion now, but could 'grapevine' this in the future. Or worse, SUE you!

Potential customers, and current enthusiasts will be seeing these things in public photography. Nip it in the bud, get a clean reputation started.

Again, we're here to help one another, please take the preceeding as constructive, not condescending. You have excellent build talents, but you cannot be expected to know all the pitfalls. When you succeed, we all succeed...

I appreciate your understanding of why I question. Below is some of my work. The first 2 all mine, the rest participatory, but ALL are flying works. All but the first pic is the actual aircraft I worked the restoration on. All but the first aircraft reside in a public museum. The BF-109 is THE aircraft used in Indiana Jones to strafe the beach.

My current work is a Lockheed Super Constellation and I was called to it because I am very good at what I do. http://www.dlbs.de/en/Projects/Lockheed-Superstar/News.php

I've also managed to do scheduled maintenance, modification, crash recovery, and customization of a few hundred corporate jets in the past 27 years of working on aircraft.

Still want to know about that engine and electrical work.

I'd also like to thank all the newbs that seem to only be able to call me names for your valued input.