removing the clutch plate Philips head bolts

marp68

marp68

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Okej, so I'am about to remove the clutch plate bolts and springs.

But I only succeed in removing one of the clutch plate bolts. The other ones sits to tight. They have Philips heads and I tend to start slipping if trying harder. Tried hitting them a bit, but nooop. Don't want to destroy them totally and not being able to remove the bolts.

I will try to get a hold of a hand impact tool or an electric one

Other suggestions?

:shrug::confused::mad:
 
AND those screws are japanese industrial standard (JIS) heads/slots different from Phillips head slots phillips are more pointed and go deeper into the x slot which is why they round out JIS screws (from bottoming out before full engagement in the x slot)
 
Aren't they #3 Philips? Well JIS #3 phillips. I get em out with the hand impact. The socket head replacements are a nice mod.
 
Often improperly referred to as Japanese Phillips. Commonly found in Japanese equipment. JIS looks much like a Phillips screw (and even more similar to Frearson), but is designed not to cam out and will, therefore, be damaged by a Phillips screwdriver if it is too tight. Heads are usually identifiable by a single raised dot to one side of the cross slot. JIS B 1012:1985 screw standard is throughout the Asia market and Japanese imports. The driver has a 57 degree point with a flat tip, parallel wings.


Advantages and Disadvantages of JIS

Most people and companies outside of Japan have absolutely no idea what they are. With the similarity in appearance to the Frearson and the Phillips the screws are often damaged in removing and installing with the wrong tools. JIS tends not to camout like Philips. The JIS driver can be used on Phillips quite easily but not reciprically. Drivers are not easily available in North America, try your local RC Airplane hobby shop. Most RC Helicopters use JIS screws to mount the propeller. JIS-spec cross-head screws are generally marked with a single raised dot or an "X". JIS always fit Phillip fasteners, but because of slight design differences, Phillips drivers may not fit JIS fasteners. (unless the tip is ground down a bit).

http://www.instructables.com/id/Whe...lips/step10/JIS-Japanese-Industrial-Standard/
 
take a dremel cut off wheel, and removed some of the 'web" in the X on my #3 Philips screw drivers and driver bits that seems to help. The #2 and smaller JIS aren't too hard to find I don't think I have seen a #3 JIS though?
You may wonder why the Phillips bits are "designed" to cam out? Because when assembling with high speed screw guns that's an advantage. It helps reduce overdrives and broken screws and bits.
 
In a pinch , as I had to do, prior to my JIS bits arriving, you may use a dremel or other tool to cut a slot in the head of those screws and use a flat bladed screw driver to remove them. Of course you'll have to replace the but the allen headed modification works much better. Actually you could take your damaged ones and probably do it too.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3408
 
Success! :D:)

Thanks for input.

Intresting reading about the difference between the Japanese and Philips head.

I''m about to try to make the starter work, but I have started another thread for that...
 
I just want to add that everyone working on an XS650 should own a set of JIS drivers. They are awesome.
 
I agree on the JIS bits. Another trick I learned years ago is to use a small chisle and use that to get things loose.
I had a set That were stripped out. I had a 1/4 wide chisle and a hammer and used that get those clutch screws loosened. Put the chisle on the head and use the hammer in the direction the screws turn. The chisle will cut a small nckinto the edge of the screw but it will start turning before you do much damage to the screwhead. Once you get them loose they come out fine with most any screwdriver.
Then just drill out the screws with a 5/32's bit so the 5 mm x40 mm bolts fit through the screws. Now before yopu put the clutch together on the bike, do it off the bike and check how much the allen bolts protrude out the rear of the clutch. If they stick through much they can cut into the basket.
Leo
 
XSLeo said:
Then just drill out the screws with a 5/32's bit so the 5 mm x40 mm bolts fit through the screws.
Click to expand...

Just a curious question...

I read another thread here on the forum about this mod, but there the allen bolt were 6 mm thick. Which is correct? I don't have my screw loose.

I've also seen that they sell these modified bolts at xs650shop, but I thought of having it done by a local guy.

M
 
I may be wrong on the size. The length is right. My metric caliper is hiding right now so I can't check diameter.
Do you have a drill press? Do it yourself.
I took my cheap drill press vise and drilled a 1/4 inch hole right where the jaws close. This holds the screw straight. I then drilled from the head end and as I drilled through the screw the threaded part fell right off.
Easy to do.
Leo
 
hi i went and purchased 3-4 hardened cheap phillips head tools you get from any good hardware they cost about 3bucks each and you use the in a air tool ,,, they are chinese or jap... i,ve used my right angle air operated ratched tool ,,,it came in a $100 kit i got.. it does work well regards oldbiker
 
my only concern on this mod would be the allens backing out as the tightening torque is the only thing holding them in, on the stock screw the spring tension keeps the screw from backing out, might not hurt to put the allen thru the hole and then pop it with a welder to make them one piece units again
 
Found my caliper and yes, they are 6 mm.
I've been running them for a year or so and they are still tight. Just had it apart checking other things.
On the stock screws I think pressure of the shouder next to the threads against the hub is what holds them in, not the spring tension. Adding a few in/lbs of torque won't hurt.
Leo
 
Yes, the screw size needed is M6 x 40, 45s are too long and will stick out the back of the hub. Actually, the 40s are a little short and don't quite reach in as far as the originals. I grind the "dome" top off the head after drilling to gain another MM or 2 of reach. For drilling, I made a little holder for 3 screws out of thick aluminum .....

ScrewHolder.jpg


ScrewHolder2.jpg
 

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