Resurfacing your old brake Discs

cra-z1

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I just got some discs I sent out to https://truedisk.net/ for resurfacing. His turn around is very quick and he does them correctly. If you restoring your bike I would recommend having your discs done. These are wheels from a KZ1000 project im working on. Just need to repaint the centers. The wheels were repainted so everything should look good




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I just got some discs I sent out to https://truedisk.net/ for resurfacing. His turn around is very quick and he does them correctly. If you restoring your bike I would recommend having your discs done. These are wheels from a KZ1000 project im working on. Just need to repaint the centers. The wheels were repainted so everything should look good




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Looks like he does nice work. I recall his name from another post. For me, in the cold north, shipping costs are quite hefty.
 
That is a very random drill pattern. Are those in progress pics, or is there a reason for the random drilled patter? The refinished surface looks great.
 
I drill my own discs, resurface and re-finish them as well. For removing the grooving and smoothing them out, I found some 4" Roloc discs that fit my angle grinder on eBay. On most of the discs I've encountered, the grooving isn't very deep and is mostly just "visual". It doesn't take much to smooth it out ......

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This also has the added benefit of deburring the holes I've drilled, saving me quite a bit of work doing that separately. After I've smoothed out all the grooves, I use a Flex-Hone tool to condition them .....


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Once put into service, this texturing doesn't last long. The pads quickly wear it away. But that's fine because it's mostly about having a nice, fresh surface on the disc for the pads to act upon, and this seems to do a good job in that respect. I'll admit that I was a bit leery at first seeing that I was doing this all free hand. I thought I might end up removing more material in spots and that the disc would "pulse" once put back in service. But so far, all I've done have turned out OK. As I mentioned earlier, the grooving isn't usually very deep so I'm hardly removing any material. I've verified this by measuring the disc thickness before and after. It barely changes.
 
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That is a very random drill pattern. Are those in progress pics, or is there a reason for the random drilled patter? The refinished surface looks great.
Now you made me look. I agree a very odd pattern as I’m used to seeing a symmetrical set of holes. A quick visual and looks like it would imbalance the rotor. I’m sure the guy knows what he’s doing though.
 
That is a very random drill pattern. Are those in progress pics, or is there a reason for the random drilled patter? The refinished surface looks great.

Now you made me look. I agree a very odd pattern as I’m used to seeing a symmetrical set of holes. A quick visual and looks like it would imbalance the rotor. I’m sure the guy knows what he’s doing though.

Thats the stock pattern for those wheels, all he did was resurface them. I've seen that pattern on Kawasaki wheels before. Early V-Rod discs are also random pattern as well.

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Yes, that is an odd pattern. The holes are supposed to overlap the ones next to them slightly. This insures the whole swept area of the disc is covered by them. I'm not sure that pattern does that very well ......

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I’ve had good luck with a random orbital sander. Like 5t said, it barely removes any material but does clean them up pretty well. If they were bad enough I suppose I could use my lathe/
 
I probably should use a service like that! But like others I've done fine with an angle grinder and flap wheel. finest grit you can find, 320 is great.
I GREATLY prefer to work on a spinning wheel to keep the resurfacing even, also improves the looks. I keep one front hub just for doing rotors and bolt it to a shop table. Now that I have a bigger lathe I just chuck the rotors in the lathe, cover the ways to keep grit off them and go at it with the flap disk.
It's possible to turn these stainless rotors but not if they are drilled. It also tends to create an ear destroying high pitched squeal. Angle grinder for all but special cases of machining needed.
 
For what they charge, I'm sure you can buy a lot of flap wheels, lol. I never tried a flap wheel. I was afraid it might be too aggressive. But I do have some 320's, maybe I'll give one a try. They're certainly cheaper and easier to get than those Roloc discs I've been using.
 
I GREATLY prefer to work on a spinning wheel to keep the resurfacing even, also improves the looks. I keep one front hub just for doing rotors and bolt it to a shop table.

Don't need to be fancy.... run a hole through a 4X4, slip an axle through it and set your spare wheel on it. Two bolts to hold the disc, the wife to spin the wheel.... bobs your uncle. :smoke:


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Don't need to be fancy.... run a hole through a 4X4, slip an axle through it and set your spare wheel on it. Two bolts to hold the disc, the wife to spin the wheel.... bobs your uncle. :smoke:


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If the wheel is free to turn on the bearings, the grinder will spin it, you don't have to make your wife stand there and eat grit....
 
Unbolt it, flip it and bolt it t' other way... Bob's still your uncle. :wink2:
I was thinking that but was no sure if the off-set was too much to clear the spokes. Then again if working on a wheel where that might be a problem one could use some spacers and longer bolts. Not like you would need to be perfectly true as long as it was pretty close!
 
I was thinking that but was no sure if the off-set was too much to clear the spokes. Then again if working on a wheel where that might be a problem one could use some spacers and longer bolts. Not like you would need to be perfectly true as long as it was pretty close!
Don't recall if I washer'd it up or not Ken. Might have... dunno. :umm:
 
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