RH cylinder problem

choppinlefty

XS650 Member
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Portland, Oregon
Hi there folks. Thanks in advance for hearing this one out. I've got a 1979 xs650 that I bought a few years ago. Since day one, the right hand cylinder has given me varying degrees of problems. But I'll describe the current one. As it stands, the bike is a one-two kick startup but at first it pretty much only runs on the left cylinder until it warms up. Reving it a bit will get the right hand cylinder to fire intermittently but not consistently, and with lots of backfiring on decel. Once the bike is warm, the right hand cylinder will fire fine, though it seems like I don't have great power (I keep up with traffic fine, but it just seems sluggish to me) and again, tons of backfiring on decel.

I've got stock carbs on, though I'm running an aftermarket tank without the vacuum petcock, so the carb boots are sans vacuum barbs. The left cylinder is 2.5 turns out on the mix screw, the right I've been fiddling with a lot thinking its a lean condition, but its like 3.5 turns out now. Helps with the backfiring, but seems like way too much difference, and again, still crummy startup. Recently completely rebuilt the carbs twice, full soak and rinse and blown out with an aircan. Pretty sure all my passages are clear.

At the moment I'm only running stock headers, no mufflers (I had an exhaust I built on it earlier, but it leaked too much and just threw the headers on to run it. The other exhaust had the same problems) I am saving to get a decent set of pipes but the prices have gone up a lot from what I remember, so not happening right away. New gaskets at the heads.

As near as I can tell with the skills I have, the timing is correct, valve spacing is correct and I bench synced the carbs but do not own a manometer(?) so no precision tuning there. Cam chain tension was also correct last I checked. Like I said, seems no matter what I do, the RH side has a problem that I cannot figure out. Any help as to whats going on here would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hi lefty,
it won't run right with no back pressure, if you don't care about looks any old cheap muffler will fix that.
And I thought I'd cleaned my carbs too but cleaning them yet again and this time getting the slow running jet clean solved my own bike's backfiring and only running on one cylinder at low speed problems.
BTW, what did you soak the carbs in and has it dissolved the butterfly shaft seals?
 
I would set both mix screws at 3 turns out, your carb butterfly open together, pulling to different mixes isn't good, try that and see what happens and make sure everything is tighten up.
 
+10 on the carb clean. The third time is usually the charm for me. Trace the slow speed circuit and make sure it is clear. Sounds like you are going lean on the pilot...
 
Seems like I'll have to pull the carbs again and give it a good thorough cleaning once more. I am also going to pull the trigger on an exhaust system this week and see if that fixes anything. As the RH side has caused me problems this whole time since owning it, is it possible that there is something about the heads that would cause an exhaust leak to that side? Unless I'm mistaken, backfiring is usually caused by a lean condition or exhaust leaks. Just sort of thinking out loud. Thanks for the quick responses. Keep em coming!
 
Hey ChoppinLefty, did you ever get this one solved? I'm actually having the exact symptoms you described.. I had been having some electrical issues that seem to have been solved but this one remained so I assumed it was electrical as well.. i'll pull the carbs and take a closer look.
 
Most often when one cylinder will not fire at idle and kicks in at higher rpms is a dirty carb on the side that won't run right.
When cleaning I use spray can carb cleaner. With carbs apart remove pilot jet. Insert tube of carb cleaner down into where the pilot jet goes. Spray. While spraying watch the holes by the throttle plate. Hold open a bit. Spray should come out all for holes.
Three very tiny ones and one slightly bigger.
Now remove the mix screw, Insert tube and spray. Cleaner should come out all the holes as well as where the pilot jet goes.
Once you get carb cleaner sprayed in, let set a few minutes. Best to use a blow gun on an air compressor. Blow through the carb the same way you did the cleaner.
Do it as many times as needed to get the spray to come out the holes by the throttle plate.
If the tiny holes don't come clean easily you can use a probe. The twist tie off a loaf of bread works ok. Peel the cover off one end about 1/2 inch. This very thin steel wire if soft enough to not do to much damage unless you really aggressive.
Bend the end of twist tie over. Carefully use this to probe those tiny holes.
Just probe once or twice. This will be enough to get a hole through the crud. Then go back to the spray cleaner.
The carb uses just these holes and passages at idle. If they are dirty ten no idle.
Another thing you might check is compression. If low on the side that won't run then that could be the trouble.
The poor idle then runs ok once warmed up god kinda indicates that might be part of problem
Compression should be even. Like within 10 psi. In a good engine the compression should be around 145 psi. If the bike has sat for 20 years the compression may be a bit low. Even down to 100 psi and be ok, Often when you get it running the compression comes up to where it should be. As the bike sets a thin later of rust can form on the ring and cylinder walls.
The rings may be a bit sticky. Running the engine can often fix this. Kinda like breaking it in again.
Leo
 
how about the issue of the cylinder that runs on startup but kicks out after startup? could be a plugged passage too? to give some time reference, i would say my bike starts up on the right and about 30 seconds in, the left cylinder will kick in and the right cylinder goes out. :shrug: I did just do a rebuild on the motor so i'd better have good compression :lmao: but i'll check what it is and let you know.
 
Last edited:
got both up to 145 psi for compression :woowoo: and when looked over the carbs again, i realized how much i'd messed with the settings before rebuilding the motor. once i matched the butterfly's (that were unintentionally misaligned) and set mixture screws back to normal it ran just okay. it still took some higher idle to get the left cylinder to start firing so i'll check that pilot circuit closer. my main issue now is that it's running lean and it's no surprise since i have stock jet sizing but modified exhaust and pod filters. time to do more reading on carb settings:umm:
 
Back
Top