Seized Rear Axle Bolt

Lance Weersma

XS650 Enthusiast
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Good evening gents. I have a 650xs 72' and I am having a difficult timing getting the axle nut off the rear. I have tried liquid wrench and a 27mm socket with a 2' breaker bar. Any suggestions?

Thanks
 
Take a couple of hammer's and tap on opposite sides of the nuy at the same time.

Heat it up and douse with cold water.

Get a nut breaker.

Put more slikum on it and wait.
 
Good evening gents. I have a 650xs 72' and I am having a difficult timing getting the axle nut off the rear. I have tried liquid wrench and a 27mm socket with a 2' breaker bar. Any suggestions?

Thanks
Hi Lance and welcome,
an air-impact wrench should shift it.
 
Well I got it off. Impact no luck and I broke my 1/2 driver trying to get it off. Now that I have the nut removed..... How do I get the rear wheel out.
 

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Hi Lance,
theoretically you should be able to lightly tap the axle's treaded end with a soft mallet to start it moving then pull it all the way out by hand.
Unless the bastard is rusted in there.
Then you'll have to use increasingly drastic methods.
Start with a block of wood to save the axle threads and beat on the wood with a BFH.
Let us know if that works and we'll get back to you.
 
You could also try removing the chain tensioner bolts and flip them out of the way. Remove the drop out end caps and try to slide the wheel straight out of the back. Of course the chain will need to be romoved as well as brake hardware, fender (depending on config) etc.
 
You could also try removing the chain tensioner bolts and flip them out of the way. Remove the drop out end caps and try to slide the wheel straight out of the back. Of course the chain will need to be romoved as well as brake hardware, fender (depending on config) etc.

If your exhaust is in the way of taking the axle all of the way out you'll have to do like Partsbike described anyways. The chain can be slipped off of the sprocket by pushing the wheel and axle forward first, remove the chain guard, slip the chain off of the sprocket, should be able to push the chain out of the way without disconnecting it. The possibility of taking the axle and wheel out that way always slips my mind until I get way into that situation. Granted, that axle really needs to be forced loose before this will happen.

Scott
 
Unfortunately, those removable end caps on the chain adjuster slots didn't happen until the '74 model. I think driving the axle out will be your only option.
 
Hi Lance,
alas that Mr. Stupid forgot about the '72's long muffler not allowing the axle to be pulled out sideways even if it ain't stuck and that it's swingarm ends aren't closed loops but have removable end caps.
So yes, like partsbike & Scott posted, undo the brake pull rod and torque stay, give the threaded end of the axe a whack to jar it loose, remove the swingarm end caps and pull the wheel out backwards.
EDIT once more my ignorance prevails. I just read 5-twins post about the '72 NOT having swingarm end caps. Which means you'll need to pull the righthand muffler to pull the axle.
Back to the BFH, eh? ENDEDIT
 
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I have loosened the chain tensioner and have applied liquid wrench over night. I whacked the shit out of it with a 3lbs hammer and it did not budge. All I should have to do is remove the axle nut and push it out the right side right? Am I missing anything? What options do I have?
 
Yes, with the axle nut removed, the axle should slide right out. Yours is obviously rusted in there. You're doing all you can do short of cutting it inside the swingarm to get the wheel out. But that would wreck the axle, probably some of the spacers too. Keep soaking, pounding, use some heat (heat gun), and hopefully it will break loose. It could take several days or more. If it does start to move out, pound it back in, work it back and forth. As mentioned, get some PB Blaster, it puts Liquid Wrench to shame.
 
Hi Lance,
you ain't gonna like this but if it don't work I dunno what will.
Pull the swingarm, wheel and all.
Find a bro with a big hydraulic press.
A 5/8" stub-mandrel atop the axle's threaded end and a tubular spacer underneath plus 20 Tons of force
and I don't see that axle not moving.
The hard part will be pulling the swingarm throughbolt.
We get lots of posts about removing that bastard, too.
 
Thanks fredintoon. I may get that far. I just don't know anyone with a press.

I am now on 4 days of liquid wrench / PB blaster. I also heated the axle up with a touch for 10mins and gave it a full out over the should 3 lbs sludge hit and nothing. Is my last option cutting it off?
 
did you remove the swing arm so you can get at it well? Sorry but odds are high you will have the same issue with the swing arm pivot bolt. I have had a few SOB stuck axles but persistence has gotten them all out so far. The axle has not always been saved. either on or off the bike you need to get some kind of backing on the RH side swing arm so your blows move the stuck axle not the whole bike. This is a big deal in this kind of situation, it's the only thing that will direct the force to where you want it to work. Cut a 2x4 so it contacts a cement wall, tractor rim, whatever very heavy mass you can find to STOP movement of the arm. Laying the bike on it's side, blocking to the floor would work also.
I'm sure it's too late now; but the nut stays on, turned until it's flush with end of the threads till the axle has loosened.
 
The problem is usually that the axle is rusted to the inner spacer that sits between the wheel bearings, an impossible to get at junction. A piece of about 1 1/2" steel pipe that fits over the axle head would make good "blocking" also
 
Gotta watch the brake pedal so it doesn't get the cover, best to remove it. a piece of wood on a 5 gallon bucket for the handlebar to rest on usually works about right so the bike doesn't go too far over. Rug or cardboard on the floor under the engine.
 
Is there any risk of laying the bike on its side. I just changed the crank case oil?
Hi Lance,
oil ain't expensive, eh? You didn't say, how rusted up is the bike in general?
It may be necessary to get medieval on the bike after all and pull it all apart just to get access to the frame.
A bare frame is a lot easier to lay on it's side to feel a sledgehammer's full rigor.
As to not having a "Bro with press" phone around your local machine shops and pay them for a press job.
 
The bike its self is not that bad. I am surprised that I am having soo many issues with the Axle and the nut. The bike is a 72 and it has been parked in a garage for 25 years and has not been ran for equally as long. The Axle is starting to look a bit beat up as I hopped that each swing was the last. I am sure you will see more post from this Noob as I try to get this bike running
 
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