So I'm feelin' pretty stupid or stumped on my swingarm bushings.

Yeah heat is your friend. slitting the bushings with a hacksaw blade can help too. I use 1/2" extensions as drifts and regret it about every time. Is #3 out? my ho-made tool shown towards the end of the thread works pretty good, is easy to make and saves a socket extension from getting beat up.

Yea i made Garys home made tools, and worked like a dream once i got them free, but i will tell you this the original bushings do not burn worth a damn, they are not all plastic they are a composite type of product but the heat will eventually break them apart it just takes a good amount of time.
 
The extention I use is, of course, a snap-on impact. But I also use a brass drift hammer. I got a brass drift that's pretty hefty, but about 2 inch's too short.
 
I cracked off part of the lip of the bushing with a hammer, then drove a nail between the bushing and the tube it's in. That caused the bushing to crack down its length and it came out easily.
 
Heres mine. Before.
IMG_0007-4.jpg

After
1214090908a.jpg


Parts for the needle bearing conversion. I used a long extension to drive the plastic ones out the far side.
IMG_0052-1.jpg


It IS suggested that you replace the swing arm pivot bolt and nut. Somewhere I have heard of cracks in the threaded end. Mike's replacement is thicker. While you're in there...
 
It IS suggested that you replace the swing arm pivot bolt and nut. Somewhere I have heard of cracks in the threaded end. Mike's replacement is thicker. While you're in there...

A mechanic I was talking to said every one that he'd seen was cracked. Mine wasn't but I replaced it anyway, thinking it might crack when I tightened it back up.
 
sorry if im wrong, but with such a minimal range of motion why needle bearings? surely the bushings are better?
 
My bolt was not cracked either but I didn't want to let it go. As far as the needle bearing kit VS the bronze, I went with the needle bearing on advice of more experience members AND I got a deal on them. The needles are better on the track I hear , not that I will be on the track, and they do need to be kept greased. I'd say the bronze ones are fine too.
 
A small concept to be aware of. The SA bolt and the sleeve that surrounds it form part of the frame when tightened up. The SA bolt is put into high tension and the sleeve is put into high compression with the frame making a cross brace on the frame in the best possible place. In effect, the sleeve acts as a heavy tube welded across the frame. The torque on teh nut should be as high as possible to give the frame the maximum stiffness.

It is the very cool concept of compression and tension of two parts making one stronger part. I think about it often as it is a simple but not often mentioned concept. It's one of my obsessions I dwell over.

Tom Graham
 
What Tom stated is correct. The bolt's shoulder is an area prone to breaking because it is smaller than the rod itself. Mike's has a replacement that is all the same size.
On the needle set-up, I went with that because of less friction . My swing arm moves relativly easy, and I lube it everytime I change the oil. I did that mod 4 years ago, and the swingarm is still as tight as the day I did it. Also, I think 5Twin's has a thread on where to drill the additional holes for easier lube distribution.
 
Sorry to get back to this so late, but a few days ago, I was FINALLY able to find the torch head at Wal-Mart. I'm surprised the bushings took so long to come out, and at that, they really didn't even burn. They just kind of hardened and cracked and broke. So much for plastic. Hahah but yea, thanks for all the help guys
 
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