some wiring diagrams

[XSLeo]

You can open up the cover and remove a lot of the wires and make the harness much more simple.
As far as the white wires you need all three to have the alternator work.
You might want to look through the "Some wiring diagrams" thread . You can find links to it up in the XS650 Tech section.
Find one that has the items you are using and use the wires and connectors from your harness to build a new harness. I have had some harnesses that have very stiff wires, others the wires are much more flexible. If yours has stiff wires I would suggest you use new wire to replace the old stiff wire. Use wire that matches the stock colors, this will make trouble shooting easier.
The stock harness has all the right plugs and connectors so all the stock parts you want to use just plug in.
Leo

 

[benway0007]

so if I'm running a pamco. which I am, I don't need the brush assembly correct? the brushes are for points?

 

[retiredgentleman]

so if I'm running a pamco. which I am, I don't need the brush assembly correct? the brushes are for points?

If you have a stock alternator, then the brushes are needed to take current to the rotor.

 

[XSLeo]

It appears you are confusing some of the parts. Ignition is the coil, points and condensers or Pamco or the TCI, Boyer, whatever.
Alternator a is reg and rec, stator, rotor, brushes.
The to systems are totally seperate from each other, no shared parts.
Leo

 

[sbaugz]

any chance someone here can show me how to add turn signals into this diagram?

http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/ae54/inxs-de/wiring/xs650.jpg

 

[Austblue]

I would think that this is how it would be done but please allow someone to verify as I'm not qualified to be certain, Just thought I'd help do the leg work so someone more knowledgeable wouldn't have to and could just verify.

 

[XSLeo]

That looks like it will work fine. It shows just one set of lights, just add a second set if needed. Indicaters in the dash would be nice, just run a hot wire from each side to an indicater bulb, one for each side or use one bulb with diodes in the hot wires so both side flash seperatly.
I'd rewrite the diagram but I don't know how to do that.
Leo

 

[Austblue]

Leo's correct and thanks for confirming mine was ok, I just did a bare bones diagram. Sbaugz, for a diagram on the indicators you can use this but take note that this is for a single dash indicator as described by Leo above. If you want dual just drop the diodes and continue the dual lines up to the corresponding dash light.

 

[XSLeo]

If you look at a diagram for a 70-71 year, they are pretty simple, easy to see the turn signals circuit.
It shows using just one bulb for the dash indicator. This will work fine if you use regular bulbs in the signals but won't work with LED's. If using LED's you will need the diodes to keep them from feeding power through the indicator and flashing both sides at once. The diodes would go in the power wire from the left and right signals, then hook both diodes to one of the wires to the bulb, ground the other wire of the bulb.
Leo

 

[Street Tracker]

What computer programs are you guys using to draw these schematics like Huge does?? Are there any free that will work just on my mac for drawing my bikes system up?

 

[mapster]

Would anybody care to take a look and critique at my wiring diagram?

1982 Heritage Special
stock TCI
stock alternator
kickstart only

My first attempt at this so I apoligise if its confusing. I just tried to eliminate criss-cross wires, they make my head spin. Didn't really put too much thought into wire colors yet.

Thanks!

 

[XSLeo]

The only thing I see right off is the turn signal indicaters. Power doesn't run through them. They should have power to them and grounds, just like the signals.
Leo

 

[benway0007]

ok... i had my bike charging,,,, 1981xs.... but i did a final wiring and now no charge...... i have a factory alt, elec start, battery, and a pamco set up, on my brushes i have a red wire and green.. is one a power or ground.. im not sure how to test.. also what should i have for res on my rotar from one brush surface to the other.. i have .3 ohms thanks

 

[retiredgentleman]

ok... i had my bike charging,,,, 1981xs.... but i did a final wiring and now no charge...... i have a factory alt, elec start, battery, and a pamco set up, on my brushes i have a red wire and green.. is one a power or ground.. im not sure how to test.. also what should i have for res on my rotar from one brush surface to the other.. i have .3 ohms thanks

To measure the rotor resistance from slip ring to slip ring, remove both brushes first. Normal resistance is about 5 to 6 ohms. If you have 0.3 ohms, the rotor is bad for sure.

 

[benway0007]

Perfect. My rotar has 3.9. What about the output village
I have non. Should I field the rotor and what does it put out? Ac or dc?

 

[XSLeo]

With the 3.9 ohm on the rotor sliprings you wont get much output. The rotor you have is bad. As RG said the rotor should read 5 to 6 ohms. Any less and the windings are shorted.
When you say feild the rotor, what does that mean?
If you mean do a regulator bypass, then the output will be the max it can be. With your shorted rotor it won't be much. Maybe 4-6 volts.
With a good rotor, stator and brushes, do the reg bypass, a meter on the battery the voltage should climb up. It should exceed 15 volts but don't let it, unhook the bypass before it goes over 15 volts. Too much voltage can burn thing out, like the ignition.
The alternator puts out AC power on the three white wires. This AC is sent to the rectifier where it gets converted to DC. If you have the bike idling you can probe the connector the three white wires are in. From one white wire to another white wire you will get at least 10 volts AC. With your bad rotor you will get much less.
When I was doing some testing on my 75, it has a seperate regulator and rectifier. You can unplug either one with out unplugging the other. I did the reg bypass with the rectifier unplugged and at idle I got 20 volts AC on the white wires from the stator.
With the regulator plugged in the AC was 11 volts.
Leo

 

[benway0007]

What should I see for voltage directly off of the brushes?

 

[benway0007]

screw it.... what is the best bet for the permanent alt conversion? there is one on ebay from tc bros..

 

[XSLeo]

Well before you through a lot of money at the problem, how about gaining some knowledge on how what you have works. I wrote a description of how the charging system works. You can find it linked to in the XS650 TECH section.
To answer your question. When you turn the key on but not start the bike the positive brush. The one with the brown wire, I think yours may be red should get full battery voltage.
Once the bike starts the reg turns on and off the current flow through the rotor by grounding and ungrounding the green wire from the brush. This happens several thousands if time per minute. If you hook your meter to the positiv brush it can't read fast enough to see the change from off to on, it reads the average voltage between off and on. About 6 or 7 volts. Slightly more when the bike is drawing power to charge the battery, run the lights and such. Less when less power is required.
You might want to fully test your ststem before you decide what you want. From all I've read you need a rotor. Custom Rewinds sells rewound rotors cheaper than a PMA kit.
Leo

 

[Whiterabbit]

I just want to say thanks to all who help out with the electrical issues here. I was just a bit worried about a total rewire to suit my needs till I read every post in this thread.
I've wired my fair share of choppers and trouble shot the Prince of Darkness nightmare the Brits call wiring but never ran a no batt. kick only Yamaha.
Too easy thanks to Ya'll! My Brat Bomber plan is coming together in the darkest corners of my twisted mind.

Now if I can only figure out how to wire the NO2 switch in....