Something to keep in mind with sump plate

xs650newb

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Hello all,

I have been having a difficult time over the past couple of days with a leaking sump plate. I recently did an oil change and replaced the sump filter and sump gasket. However, my bike has been leaking oil at the sump plate.

I read on multiple posts that the torque applied to the sump plate bolts is very light, 7 ft-lbs. I don't have a torque wrench that can measure such a low torque so I just used my trusty screw driver and turned each bolt as hard as I could.

Now, I thought I was perhaps over doing it, but it turns out that even such a low torque of 7 ft lbs is way to much to apply one handed with a screw driver in an awkward crouching position.

Today, I used my torque wrench to tighten the bolts and they were actually super loose. I did it by hand (since i can't measure that rating with my torque wrench) and the problem appears to be fixed.

Best,
Adam
 
Adam... glad you got it sorted! I think the inch pounds conversion is 84, and the recommended torque for those bolts is about 80, in case you acquire a wrench that can measure inch pounds. Mine has come in handy.

TC
 
The factory bolts are designed to break just under the head if over torqued. This is done to prevent ham fisted mechanics from stripping out the holes in the case.
Best to torque in three steps starting in the cdenter and using a crisscross patern toward the out side.
I finger tighten the bolts then to 3 ft/lbs then 6 ft/lbs.
Clean sealing surfaces and a very thin coat of greaes or anti-sieze keeps the gasket sticking to the case or plate and lets it be reused indefinitly.
Leo
 
Thanks Leo.

Do you have any idea if the bolts are supposed to come with washers of any kind?

My plate was leak free until I took it for a spin and it started leaking. When I checked the bolts they were loosened from the vibration.

Should there be a lock washer of some kind?

Best,
Adam,
 
I don't think I've ever seen a lock washer under a bolt head.

Actually, I think a bolt when its tightened into threads naturally does on its own what a lock washer under a nut is supposed to do.

When I tightened my sump plate bolts I didnt know they were any kind of special bolt and I just tightened them by feel, in stages and in the inside to outside cris-cross pattern like Leo described. Worked out okay.

One thing that will help you develop the right feel in that range, and keep you from breaking things at the same time, is to hold the ratchet real near the socket instead of at the end.
 
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Also the carb bowl machine screws use lock washers.

That they do. But I think with a bolt tightened into threads, pressure on the head is already there - no lock washer needed.

In fact Ive read that lock washers are needless in any application.
 
The sump plate bolts use no washers, the filter bolts have lock washers. You must take care tightening the filter bolts or you will crush the filter element. It's just a tin box basically.
 
Yes, you are correct 5twins................the parts drawings show no washers required for the sump plate. When I did the first sump plate removal, I added flat washers. Even though not required, I feel there is a benefit to using them.
 
i finger tightened mine then turned them with a ratchet about a 1/2 turn and it doesn't seem to leak... Someone before suggested the most important aspect is to make sure they are all the same tightness, and i took that to heart.
 
i finger tightened mine then turned them with a ratchet about a 1/2 turn and it doesn't seem to leak... Someone before suggested the most important aspect is to make sure they are all the same tightness, and i took that to heart.

A torque wrench is your best friend on these bikes. Using one means never having to learn how to use an E-Z out.
 
I added washers. This prevents galling of the sump plate from the bolt heads. I also switched to Allen head bolts.
Leo
 
So after reading this it makes more sense to me. My bike was leaking from the sump plate. I took it off to find part gasket part silicone so I went and bought a new filter, gasket, oil plug and plug washer. I put it all back together and tightened it (without a torque wrench) and instantly it started leaking from the front of the sump plate between the 2 middle bolts. I didn't think I over tightened it but that is a possibility. My question is what is my next step? Do I back it off? go buy a new gasket and do it again? I am not sure but any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you
 
Hello fellow Canuck. Welcome to the site.
Look up at the top left for the search function, there are several threads about this that talk of making sure the surfaces are clean and flat and all those good things.
 
As lakeview mentioned your sump plate may be warped. If your PO used sillycone along with a broken gasket, he may have warped the plate.
Leo
 
Next step remove the filter from the plate place a sheet of 240 wet and dry on a flat surface. Use some water place the sump cover on the sandpaper and try to hold it evenly make gentle circular motions then look at the sealing surface you should have light swirls everywhere. repeat until you have it flat, thoroughly clean all traces of grit from the cover. get your head cranked around and double, triple check the bottom of the case for any errant gasket chunks. use a smear of grease on both sides of the gasket when you install. mumble mumble 1/4 ratchet, deep socket or extension, short grip. it's all about feel the bolts should run in by finger then you should feel the head contact the plate and tightening pressure quickly build on all 6 bolts, if you get a kind of "slow tightening" feeling, like maybe you are "drawing" a warped part into place. something's not right, remove and investigate.
 
Go on ebay and buy a used replacement. I had a similar problem once. Bought a new one for about 6 bucks US. Problem solved.
 
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