Specs for coil in Hugh's Hand Built complete CDI system.

Glennk

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IMG_3104.JPG I have the CDI ignition system from Hugh's Hand built installed on my TX 650A. I need to replace the coil. Does anyone know the specs on the coil he uses. I have e-mailed him without a result.
 
was this the right part? mine is pretty much brand new and I am getting 2 ohms of resistance at the primary 13.6k at the secondary. Am I correct to assume mine it is bad
 
I got my kit from HHB a few years ago. The manual I got did not have the specs got the coil. Like I said the coil in my CDI system has a primary resistance of 0.4 ohms. If it was shorted it wouldn't read 2.0 ohms. That's why I think you have a different coil than the one I have. Are you having an issue with no spark?
 
CDI coils generally have very low primary resistance. While battery ignition coils normally have 3 to 5 ohms. With the exception of some that have lower resistance because they are designed to be used with short dwell electronic ignitions.
 
I do have a CDi from Hugh, it is getting spark. it runs great actually. but the stator looks like... the picture below. I am trying to figure out why it's overheating. all the new connections I made look good. I have torn apart the entire wiring loom and found some non-factory connections in the grounds, they are soldered but they look a little crappy and covered in gooey tape. I understand that the readings are reasonable for a coil, but they are not within the original Speck in Hugh's manual
I only ran the bike long enough to dial in the timing and take a short test ride. in the process I thought I may have done some damage to the coil, and possibly the stator.
 

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  • stator.jpg
    stator.jpg
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Are those 4 windings lighting/charging coils, or dedicated for feeding the CDI box? If they are lighting/charging (which I doubt), then the reg/rect may be causing it.
Unfortunately, I suspect it may be dodgy engineering and quality.
I have a VAPE in my RD350, which has worked flawlessly for at least 6-7 years now. VAPE ignition and alternator systems have a very good reputation, Hugh's does not quite have that.....
 
The first test I would make would is to for spark in each cylinder. If you don't know how to do that I can help.
If you have spark then the coil is good.
 
I think the four wrapped windings are for the CDI box. upon first removal of the stator I noticed that I slightly squished the red and green wires going to the CDI box behind the stator. the insulation was deformed, but not breached and the primary coil/resistance between the red and green wires, was 13.5ohms where the spec is 22 ohms. after cutting and soldering the deformed portion of the red and green wires the resistance remains 13.5 ohms. hugh responded to my emails several times, and now is on vacation. before leaving he suggested that there is a bad ground and I should uninstall and reinstall. I followed his advice and uninstalled everything checked all the connections everything seems good. which made me think something in the bikes wiring harness is bad.
 
The wrapped coils are the high voltage supply for the ignition CDI box. Make sure the black wire from the igniter box is well grounded. Since the bike is getting spark , the CDI coils are working.

The wrapped coils have nothing to do with charging the battery. They supply the voltage to fire the coil through the igniter box. They are wrapped because they make a very high voltage (over 100 volts). From the postage stamp image it is hard to tell if the CDI coils are damaged. They don't produce that much current so heat in the CDI coils usually isn't a problem unless there is a short in one of the CDI coils which could explain the low resistance reading.

If you could post a larger photo of the stator it would help determine if there is a problem.

Check the solder joints on the wrapped coils on the stator itself. Since they seem to be working (spark and timing good), I would put back together and ride it for a while and then see if the wrapped coils look the same or worse and go from there.

Keep us posted.
 
On your grounds, did you clean them up so you have clean bare metal to clean bare metal? Just bolting a grond to tyhe frame may sound ok but you need the paint gone or very little to no continuity. This weal connection may ground ok for a low load but not cut it for a high load.
Leo
 
The stator.
stator 2.jpg

wire ground for rec reg.jpg
Here is the here is the reg rec. Strapped to the bottom of the frame under the battery box. A 10 gauge orange wire is bolted to a paintless portion of the regulator rectifier and connected to the negative side of the battery.
ground goes straight to batt.jpg
You might be right Leo. But I did not bolt to a painted portion of the frame for my ground. I ran a wire to the batt. Does this have to be a frame ground?
 
No. Battery ground is fine. What is important is that you have a tight clean connection. No paint or corrosion.
 
I actually am having the same issue but now no spark at all. I took everything apart and re installed. Checked all grounds and still nothing. I'm at a loss and am having a hard time finding specs for any of his products except the coil. Any ideas?
 
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