sprocket preference

anysnail

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i want to change my sprocket setup so i get more hi end speed and less torque. right now i'm stock at 17 front and 34 rear. i was wondering which is better to do. 18 front and leave the rear stock or 32 rear and leave the front stock? it works out to approx the same gear ratio but i read somewhere that if i go with the 18 tooth front then i have to remove some kinda part. but to put a 32 rear on i have to take apart so much more stuff. am i in a catch-22 here or am i overthinking again?
 
rear sprocket would be easier.. you really should replace both sprockets and the chain. if you buy a new sprocket and run an old worn out chain over it you will have just cut your sprockets life in half.. then if you get a new chain later you will just stretch that out too..
 
the PO said he replaced both sprockets and the chain last year and it looks it. all three are in cherry shape. i just wanted to knock down the RPMs at 55mph from 3800 to something a little less screamy sounding. i guess the problem i have with the rear sprocket is do i HAVE to break the chain? cuz i really have no idea where to start on that mess.
 
if i go as low as 30 how much am i sacrificing with my 650's get-up-and-go? i guess with a new pamco ignition and rejetted carbs i'm not going to give up much.
 
I doubt you notice the difference in accelleration. I can chug down to idle in second and still pull away cleanly. I recall XSJohn promoting as he did 18:28. It sounded like a real stretch to me. 17:30 the way to go - easier on the vibes, fuel and wear and tear on the engine. Just change both sprockets and cahin (102 links not 104 as I previously stated) at the same time.
 
you dont have to break the chain if youre just replacing sprockets. if you get a new chain, then yes youll have to cut the old one out and rivet the new one together
 
I think the 32 will suit you just fine for what you're trying to achieve. With a 30, you will feel a loss of get-up-and-go especially in 1st when you take off.

Most of the chains on our bikes (both stock and aftermarket) have a removable and reusable master link. That riveted master link is something used more on bigger and more powerful bikes than ours. With that type, you would have to cut it and replace the link if you wanted to break the chain.
 
THis is something I'm considering as well. Now that I'm driving my bike, I'm finding it isn't the cruiser it could be :) At what RPMs do you guys notice the vibration from the engine?? 3500?? sooner or later ??
 
THis is something I'm considering as well. Now that I'm driving my bike, I'm finding it isn't the cruiser it could be :) At what RPMs do you guys notice the vibration from the engine?? 3500?? sooner or later ??

every bike vibrates differently, effected by everything from balance of the engine its self, carbs being in balance, worn handlebar bushings, engine mounting bolts properly tightened ect. I like the 17/31 my self here's a gearing calculator to play number crunch with
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/gearspeed.html
 
You know, maybe my bike just runs really good or I'm crazy. But i run a 17/30 on my hardtail, and I never have any vibration problems at all. Pulls just fine in 1st, not trying the hang the front tire or anything, but works for me. At highway speeds, it sounds like a 30 year old twin, but doesnt vibrate stupid or anything. Maybe I'm just numb, I don't know. I like the 17/30.
 
I think with a properly tuned engine the vibs are a non issue. I have my carbs dialed in pretty well. It doesn't vibrate any worse than my 03 Harley.
I'm running the 17/30 sprockets.
You can pull the rear wheel without breaking the chain. Go ahead and get the new sprocket of your choise. Try it with your chain. If it can't be tightened enough, cut a coulple links out. It's not hard to do.
 
I have been very happy with my change to 18/33 and a 520 chain several years ago. The stock 17/34 was awful! This one is about worn out with 12,000 plus miles, My next new sprockets and chain will again be 520 but will lower the rear one more tooth to 18/32.
I removed the sift shaft guard and no problems here, just keep the chain adjusted (Not needed often) if kept lubed every 300 miles, for me that's 1 time per week as i commute to work on it.
55 is nice at about 3400rpm.
 
Also to everyone who is having problems at high speeds make sure that your engine is getting enough fuel and that your carbs are properly synched.

Synching the carbs is super easy. I made the $3 carb synch tool and it works like a champ.

If your carbs are even slightly out of synch it will cause a ton of vibrations on the freeway and you won't want to push your bike. Same thing goes if you are running lean.

I did a trip recently and when I got home I instantly started to research new sprockets. But after some carb therapy my bike just purrs along at 72 no problem; and I am a really heavy guy.

I still might drop 2 teeth in the rear but that is all I would do. Just make sure your carbs are at 100% before even thinking about sprockets.
 
Very true if its not in good tune it will have a hard time pulling higher gearing.
Especially in wind or hills.
+ better tune = less vibes for sure.

Another thing that's nice for me, with lower rpm is the exhaust noise goes down.
and shift point went from 4000 to 3000.
 
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The same chain for the 17/34 can be used for gearing from 17/36 - 17/32 so if your chain is in good nick then you can play around a bit and keep the costs down
 
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