started ran about 100 yards died now no lights at all

ratfinkd1

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1980 xs650g Cleaned carbs started bike took off idle revved a little got on put it in gear rolled off real slow. Backfired ran alittle further then just stopped checked fuses igntion fuse blown replaced still no lights not even lights between speedomter and rmp gauge. Its like no power at all kick it and nothing either. A little help please.
Gotta head outta town so please leave any and all ideas and I'll check everything when I get back. Thanks in advance.:wtf:
 
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Be kind of nice to know what year and model you are working with, but I would also check battery voltage first
 
battery brand new and yes I did check battery its fine gotta leave town tomorrow so I took it out and put it on charger it went straight to storage setting. So my volt meter works my charger works and my batterys good. If my brand new battery was just dead for some reason why would it blow the igntion fuse?
 
I'll chaeck the battery ground tomorrow before I leave it wasn't loose when this happened but maybe rust between the wire and frame? Why do you think the igntion fuse blew?
 
Could still be fuses. The clips that hold the fuses get weak and make poor connections. Replacing with inline blade type fuse holders will fix a bunch of electrical woes.
Going through the wiring from one end of the bike to the other will fix most of the rest. Clean tight connections are a good thing.
 
Well I didn't have to leave town today. So after running errands I began cleaning and checking the connections for fit and corrsion got a few more to do. I checked the headlight and the bulb dosen't looked burnedout. I haven't made it back to the taillight yet. I'll break out the test light once I get the connections cleaned.

I began to clean carbs and found the P.O. had completly stripped the head off of one of the of the pilot jets, most of the other one also, and bent the rod holding the float where it doesn't float freely. I went to limey bikes here in Austin and met the owner awesome guy. He has a stock set of carbs for the 1980 that came off a running he installed older carbs I think he said from a 78. Anyways offered them to me for 50 bucks I haven't picked them up yet he said they have been sitting awhile he offer to throw them in the ultrasound cleaner and out the door them for 75. Thats pretty good for a set of stock carbs???right
 
The bulbs dont have to be burned out to have a short...use you 12v+ on each wire if it lights up its grounded...one of the wires is touching your frame.....go wire for wire..takes time..
 
Yeah I know. A retard went thru this bike before I got it. Like I said haven't finished cleaning all the connections but have already found at least one issue one of the yellow headlight wires wasn't plugged up. The rear fender has been off the bike so I'm sure there is going to be something wrong there also. Pretty much if i can tell they have worked on a part of the bike I know there is something wrong. I may not even have to breakout the test light once I just check all the connections they really needed to be cleaned so no big deal.
 
This is just me, but the first thing I do with a XS is to strip the factory harness out and start over....its the only way :banghead:
 
True that its gonna go that way I'm just playin with it right now. I'm gonna chop it but waiting till after my girl and I get married. After we get married she paying for the hardtail and getting me a couple of other things(I bought her a really nice ring):wink2:. If I can get it to run and make sure the charging system works I'll be happy could care less about lights actually working.
 
sounds like that one fuse behind the right side cover... everytime I tried to use my turnsignals, it would blow that fuse and kill all power on my 75..... changed to a blade type fuse, and quit using turn signals.. Indiana does not require them on bikes more than 25 years old... :)
 
Fuse box is on top of battery that fuse is out and the blinkers are of. I'll let you know what I find today when I'm done working on it. I'm pretty confident its dew to P.O.
 
Just as I suspected P.O. problem. Got home after a run to the dvm to start bonded title work and limey bikes to pick up some super clean carbs(the orignals had stripped heads on the pilot jets completely stripped and a bent rod and melt pilot rubber plugs). I went about finishing off the cleaning of the connections and found the main issue. The safety relay thats mounted to the right side of the battery box was missing the bottom screw and was hitting the metal battery box. Cleaned it, put another bolt in it, and after replacing the o-ring on the tank petcock and installing the carbs I was riding the XS650!. Rode around for a good half an hour. Headlight still doesn't work and brake light seems to be on. Something to do tomorrow I guess.:thumbsup:
 
If the charging system is not working the headlight won't come on. When the engine starts the and the charging system starts to make electricity a voltage is sent out on the yellow wire to the safety relay. When the voltage on the yellow wire reaches 2.5 to 4.5 volts it trips the relay turning the starter off and the headlight on.
Check your charging. After you start it let it run a minute or two and chec k the battery voltage at idle and at 2500-3000 rpms. At idle it can read 12 to 13.5 volts. As you rev it up it should climb to 14 .5 volts by 2500-3000 rpms. Any more or less indicates trouble. Do the check.
 
Thanks xsleo I'll work on that today. Gotta finish the honeydo list first. couldn't find my voltmeter last night haven't had to use it since I moved... May have be borrowed and never made it home. Anybody nowhere I can get a decent cheap one that do everthing I need? The one I had I got off the snap on truck... so i was bent over for that one:eek:
 
I like the one from Harbor Frieght. #90899 Sells for $9.99 regular. Often on sale for $5.99. If you go to there site and use their coupon, $2.99. Was dollar less back a few months.
I have one, works very well. The test leads are a bit short. Can't set it on the ground and reach the battery.
It has a diode check and transistor check too.
 
Whichever you get, screw the probes out of the plastic holders and shoot some silicone sealer in there and screw it back. If you don't, the wire will eventually twist off and break at the solder joint to the probe. It will break off right when you're trying to impress some geek chick with it.
 
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